Prologue
In February of last year I hiked a 67+ mile loop circumnavigating Henry Coe State Park. It was amazing and I posted about it on the Henry Coe Facebook page. Not log after that, I saw another person posted about hiking the same exact loop. After some back and forth over about a month, he suggested we take a trip together the following year but this time into the interior of the park. I accepted the offer and almost a year later Trent and I teamed up and hit the trail.
Day 1
Miles: 5.23
Total Miles: 5.23
Elevation Gained: 581ft
Elevation Lost: 1962ft
We arrived at Henry Coe a bit after 4pm to an empty Ranger Station. After self registering for our trip we hit the trail starting out on the single track Corral Trail. Our goal was Poverty Flat Camp at a little over 5 miles into the park. After a bit over half a mile, we joined the Fish Creek Trail and wound our way downhill before joining up with the Middle Ridge Trail for the rest of the afternoon. We were in new territory for both of us. The weather was beautiful and we made our way along dropping significantly in elevation through varied terrain. There was lots of poison oak on either side of the trail. Some ankle high and some head high. We would find that this would be the case for our entire trip.
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We continued to descend through vegetation that was just beginning to wake up from winter.
A little after 6pm we reached Poverty Flat Camp and were greeted by a couple bike packers as well as a rafter of turkeys We walked around and located Site #3, the site we had notated on our permit, and set up camp for the night. We didn't have a picnic table like the other sites but instead, a nice wooden bench to cook and eat dinner. Minutes later the frogs started. First, just a few and then what sounded like hundreds. We walked down to the creek with our headlamps to try to spot them. Of course as we approached they all stopped. But not long after, a single frog started croaking again. It was almost deafening. We searched for a bit expecting to find a big sized bullfrog but instead found what (after researching at home) looked like a Pacific Tree Frog whose "mating calls can reach up to 90-100 decibels, which is as loud as a lawnmower or a car horn." It was for sure that loud!
We chatted about the day and a bit about the next before retiring to our camps. I'd chosen to use my Six Moon Design Gatewood Cape and my Borah Bivy on this trip to mimic the kit I plan to carry over summer. It was a very lightweight set up built for warmer nights. The forecast had been for nights in the 50s but we were camped near a creek in a canyon and we expected colder temperatures with some condensation.
We chatted about the day and a bit about the next before retiring to our camps. I'd chosen to use my Six Moon Design Gatewood Cape and my Borah Bivy on this trip to mimic the kit I plan to carry over summer. It was a very lightweight set up built for warmer nights. The forecast had been for nights in the 50s but we were camped near a creek in a canyon and we expected colder temperatures with some condensation.
Day 2
Miles: 18.21
Total Miles: 23.44
Elevation Gained: 4803ft
Elevation Lost: 4035ft
Colder temperatures we got. And the condensation was mostly ice. The nighttime temperature had dropped to 29 degrees. We were both astonished it had gotten so cold. We met back at the bench for breakfast before packing up wet and icy gear all the while trying to keep ourselves warm before we started walking. We hit the trail between 7 and 7:30 and immediately started climbing on the Poverty Flat Road. This was my 26th anniversary of starting the Appalachian Trail back in 2000. How does time go so very quickly?
All was going well for a couple miles until we missed our turn off onto the Shafer Corral Trail and instead followed the Poverty Flat Road before turning onto the Blue Ridge Road. We'd climbed quite a bit before realizing our error. By then it made more sense to continue on and alter our day than to double back. We met up with the Black Oak Spring single track trail, a welcome change from the dirt road we'd been climbing.
All was going well for a couple miles until we missed our turn off onto the Shafer Corral Trail and instead followed the Poverty Flat Road before turning onto the Blue Ridge Road. We'd climbed quite a bit before realizing our error. By then it made more sense to continue on and alter our day than to double back. We met up with the Black Oak Spring single track trail, a welcome change from the dirt road we'd been climbing.
We took our first good break of the day at the foot of Hat Rock spreading out our gear to dry. It was mid morning and already very hot. Our gear dried while we had some snacks and water. Not long after we'd starting walking again, we spotted a Peregrine Falcon darting through the sky.
Hat Rock aptly named
We made our way up and down the ridge trail dropping from dry chaparral and into oak trees spread out over vast fields of green grasses.
The Rockhouse Ridge "Trail" as it descended down to Bear Mountain Road
After finally reaching the road we were back on track. After about a mile we came to the East Fork Coyote River. It felt very familiar to both of us and we realized in that instant that this was part of the loop we each had hiked the year before. In planning the trip, we had both missed that we'd put ourselves on course to do one of the biggest most grueling climbs in the park...again. We made our way up the valley, crossing the creek almost 10 times. It was getting hot and the cool water felt wonderful each time we crossed the ankle to shin deep creek.
East Fork Coyote Creek
As we approached the last of the crossings we got our view of the Bear Mountain Road climb.
Bear Mountain Road. The climb shown is about 1/10 of the total climb
The climb was relentless. We started climbing at 1287ft and over 4 miles got to 2510ft. Doing the math that's only 306 feet per mile. Quite deceiving as the road went from steep to steeper before leveling off for just a bit before another set of steep and steeper climbs. With no shade in sight, it was quite the push.
Trent climbing Bear Creek Road
Just before the top, we cut off on a single track trail called the Bear Springs Trail. We wound our way past Bear Mountain not getting much shade but heading in a general downward direction. Once we reached Bear Spring, we were greeted with algae filled water and an added bonus of a bit of chess and checkers. Ah the sense of humor some folk have.
We decided to forgo getting water here and instead made our way the mile and a half to Mississippi Lake. Once there we took the trail bordering the lake and saw some of our first wildflowers of the trip.
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We hiked to the dam and looked for a campspot as well as a place on the lake where we could get water. We found neither. There was a couple camped in the spot we thought we might want (who had carried in a large inflatable raft) and the only spot to access the lake dropped down to brown water with floaties.
As we were sitting looking at maps trying to make a decision a mountain biker rode up. He turned out to be a park volunteer and had a plethora of information to share. Not only did he suggest a few camping options for the night with water, but also gave us lots of beta on our next couple of days.
After chatting for a while, we got our packs back on and headed back out the way we'd come. We'd decided to head to Mississippi Camp where the bike packer had told us there would be water and a warmer night than the night before. Our map made it look farther than it was and in no time we rounded the last corner to camp and scared a deer out of the meadow as we approached.
As we were sitting looking at maps trying to make a decision a mountain biker rode up. He turned out to be a park volunteer and had a plethora of information to share. Not only did he suggest a few camping options for the night with water, but also gave us lots of beta on our next couple of days.
After chatting for a while, we got our packs back on and headed back out the way we'd come. We'd decided to head to Mississippi Camp where the bike packer had told us there would be water and a warmer night than the night before. Our map made it look farther than it was and in no time we rounded the last corner to camp and scared a deer out of the meadow as we approached.
Views of the adjacent canyon wall on our walk were stunning.
There was a spigot of non-potable water and a picnic table. We'd be camped in a grassy meadow near the creek which together spelled condensation. We were a bit bummed but it was getting late and we wanted to be done. We set up camp, enjoyed a hot meal with some conversation before hitting the sack. On this night there was only one singular frog filling the night with its calls along with a soft chorus of crickets.
Mississippi River Camp
Last color of the night
Day 3
Miles: 11.56
Total Miles: 35.00
Elevation Gained: 2244ft
Elevation Lost: 2448ft
Our intel wasn't correct and we woke up to a temperature of 33 degrees. A bit of ice on the table but otherwise just a LOT more condensation than night one. We decided to walk back up the road a bit from where we'd come the night before to see the sunrise. I made a cup of coffee to carry and we headed up. The colors were terrific!
At a bit after 8am, a pretty late start, we headed out the back of the camp following blue flagging hanging in trees marking the Mississippi Creek Trail. It was a beautiful area but the flags quickly disappeared and we were left to find our way through this valley which became narrower and then wider many times over. Huge drop-offs forced us to move higher up and into the brush and thick poison oak only having to drop steeply back down after passing the obstruction in the creek.
After a few beautiful miles, we climbed out of the creek bed and up to Coit Road. Once again we headed up steep hills with little to no shade as we made our way towards Pacheco Camp. Our goal wasn't the camp but the creek just below the camp. The previous year a ranger had told me about Pacheco Canyon and the beauty within. He mentioned there there was no trail and that there was at least one steep drop-off that one "could make their way around." The canyon led to a waterfall that Trent had visited on an earlier trip and said was well worth it.
Once at the creek, we took a break to dry out our gear as well as eat and drink. In no time we were back on foot making our way down the creek. It started out wide and gentle and within a quarter of a mile was a rock scramble. At .4 miles into the 1 mile hike we came to a steep drop-off. We thought we could make it down but it looked like there were steeper sections further down. After some discussion we decided the best course of action was to turn around and skip it. It was just a bit more than we both felt comfortable with. Those are the tough but important decisions to make out there.
Once at the creek, we took a break to dry out our gear as well as eat and drink. In no time we were back on foot making our way down the creek. It started out wide and gentle and within a quarter of a mile was a rock scramble. At .4 miles into the 1 mile hike we came to a steep drop-off. We thought we could make it down but it looked like there were steeper sections further down. After some discussion we decided the best course of action was to turn around and skip it. It was just a bit more than we both felt comfortable with. Those are the tough but important decisions to make out there.
Starts out mellow and beautiful
Starting to get rocky
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Rock islands with tuffs growing on top and out the bottom into the water
Heading back out
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We made our way to Pacheco Camp, an old farmstead with many of the original buildings from the 50s still standing.
Pacheco Camp
We had a snack and looked at maps. We made a decision to head to Hoover Lake by way of a couple of other trails. Trent had been there before but had missed the old landing strip that we both wanted to check out. We took the Pacheco Creek Trail to the Rose Damn Trail. The flowers were starting to pop!
The Hoover Lake 2,600-foot gravel runway was built by landowner Frank Coit, from Mendota, California, who used his wealth to purchase 18,000 acres for hunting and fishing. It was built while the area was still part of a private cattle ranching operation under the ownership of the Coe family before the land was incorporated into the State Park.
A 1966 photo (courtesy of Jonathan Westerling) by Frank Coit’s friend Ken Newton showing his sons Kenneth & David inspecting Hoover Airstrip's construction.
One side of the landing strip now with the pipe crossing to mark the end of the runway
We spent a few minutes at one end of the strip taking pictures of the wildflowers there and imagining a time when airplanes landed here.
We walked the length of the runway and made our way to Hoover Lake. As we approached, a gigantic Golden Eagle sitting on the far shore took flight and put on a show for us. We rested at the lake having a snack and letting our sweaty backs dry while sitting in the shade.
After leaving the lake we joined the White Tank Spring Road for a bit before heading off on the Willow Ridge Road. Our plan was to get water at the Willow Ridge Spring and camp a bit past there on a ridge with "Panoramic views from Willow Ridge." Unfortunately, we missed the spring and descended another 500 feet before realizing it. We sat down and pondered. We were both a bit low on water. Could we make it? Sure. If we had more to drink would we drink it? Sure. After a lot of back and forth we put our packs back on and headed back uphill to find the spring. It was much easier to spot coming from the other direction but there was still no sign pointing it out. We approached the spring to find that it wasn't the worst water source we'd seen but certainly not the best. We carefully dunked our filter bags into the water and decided to check out Willow Camp, another 1/8 of a mile from the spring on a side trail.
It was perfect. A terrific ridge overlooking an enormous canyon and facing directly west for sunset. We leisurely set up camp and snacked a bit before making dinner. It was here we each picked our first tick off of ourselves and then checked even more often than we had the past few days. We ate slowly and in silence listening to the birds and the breeze. As sunset grew closer we turned to watch and took many many photos.
After leaving the lake we joined the White Tank Spring Road for a bit before heading off on the Willow Ridge Road. Our plan was to get water at the Willow Ridge Spring and camp a bit past there on a ridge with "Panoramic views from Willow Ridge." Unfortunately, we missed the spring and descended another 500 feet before realizing it. We sat down and pondered. We were both a bit low on water. Could we make it? Sure. If we had more to drink would we drink it? Sure. After a lot of back and forth we put our packs back on and headed back uphill to find the spring. It was much easier to spot coming from the other direction but there was still no sign pointing it out. We approached the spring to find that it wasn't the worst water source we'd seen but certainly not the best. We carefully dunked our filter bags into the water and decided to check out Willow Camp, another 1/8 of a mile from the spring on a side trail.
It was perfect. A terrific ridge overlooking an enormous canyon and facing directly west for sunset. We leisurely set up camp and snacked a bit before making dinner. It was here we each picked our first tick off of ourselves and then checked even more often than we had the past few days. We ate slowly and in silence listening to the birds and the breeze. As sunset grew closer we turned to watch and took many many photos.
My spot with tarp and food tied to the tree in my Ursack
The night felt much warmer and we were looking forward to a comfortable and dry night
Day 4
Miles: 7.63
Total Miles: 42.63
Elevation Gained: 1821ft
Elevation Lost: 1391ft
We started packing up at 6:15 and were on the trail by 6:45. We wanted to get to the panoramic spot for sunrise. It was 53 degrees and completely dry. What a difference a camp spot makes. It had been a night serenaded by coyote. Early in the night we heard them in the far northern part of the long canyon and as the night wore on they moved south. With yips, barks, growls and high pitched howls, our night was filled with music.
In the short time it took to descend to where we were sitting and pondering water the afternoon before, the temperature had dropped to 43 degrees and the grass was wet. Another good decision we'd made.
We arrived at the panoramic spot earlier than planned and made some coffee while we waited. Unfortunately, the show didn't pan out as the angle and elevation was wrong for sunrise. We headed out not long after. The trail wound through mossy trees giving us a peek at the canyon below. As we neared the bottom of the canyon, an enormous Bald Eagle took off and flew into the Narrows.
In the short time it took to descend to where we were sitting and pondering water the afternoon before, the temperature had dropped to 43 degrees and the grass was wet. Another good decision we'd made.
We arrived at the panoramic spot earlier than planned and made some coffee while we waited. Unfortunately, the show didn't pan out as the angle and elevation was wrong for sunrise. We headed out not long after. The trail wound through mossy trees giving us a peek at the canyon below. As we neared the bottom of the canyon, an enormous Bald Eagle took off and flew into the Narrows.
As we hit the East Fork of the Coyote River once again, but in a different spot further downstream, the temperature was 38 degrees and falling. We'd made the right decision for sure. We passed the Los Cruzeros Campsite and headed into the Narrows. This is "a 1-mile long stretch of East Fork Coyote Creek between China Hole and Los Cruzeros without an established trail...where you are to expect uneven ground. In the wet season, wade in the water or climb over large rocks or push through the brush."
It was a section I was looking forward to especially after having to turn around in Pacheco Creek the day before.
It was a section I was looking forward to especially after having to turn around in Pacheco Creek the day before.
Entering the Narrows
The Narrows
The end of the Narrows was China Hole Camp where instead of taking the China Hole Trail as we'd both done the previous year, we took the Mile Trail through Madrone Soda Springs Camp and then we climbed steeply to Manzanita Camp. The trail following the side creek was beautiful with many old ruins from the 50s.
Just before we hit Manzanita Point Road we had a little visit from a very busy woodpecker.
We joined the road and passed a large group of Boy Scouts before dipping onto the Interpretive Forest Trail which led us through beautiful madrone trees and enormous manzanita before we rejoined the Corral Trail to finish the last .6 to the trailhead. The parking lot was a buzz of activity compared to us being the only ones there just a few days ago.
It had been a wonderful trip with a new friend that I hope to be able to spend time with again in the outdoors.
It had been a wonderful trip with a new friend that I hope to be able to spend time with again in the outdoors.
Trent and Adam
TOTALS
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CalTopo Map of the Trip |
2 Deer
2 Peregrin Falcon
1 Golden Eagle
1 Bald Eagle
6 Red Tail Hawks
15-20 Turkey
12-15 Salamander
3 Turtle
1 Frog (thousands heard)
4 Sand Pipers
LOTS of Ravens, Turkey Vultures, Squirrels, Mosquitos, Gnats, Ticks
Heard MANY Coyote and maybe a Donkey
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2 Peregrin Falcon
1 Golden Eagle
1 Bald Eagle
6 Red Tail Hawks
15-20 Turkey
12-15 Salamander
3 Turtle
1 Frog (thousands heard)
4 Sand Pipers
LOTS of Ravens, Turkey Vultures, Squirrels, Mosquitos, Gnats, Ticks
Heard MANY Coyote and maybe a Donkey
P