Photo Credit - Jason Fitzpatrick
Prologue
In 2013, I hiked the 211 mile JMT (John Muir Trail) from Yosemite National Park to Mt. Whitney for the second time. At this point in my long distance backpacking career, it was all about being a minimalist and hiking big mile days. I was very excited. I was using the Gossamer Gear Murmur with my trusty sleep socks in the shoulder straps for padding. I also used a solar panel for the first and last time on a thru-hike.
The movie Mile, Mile and a Half had just come out and I was excited to show it to everyone who was willing to sit down and watch. It was one of a kind at the time and hands down, the best backpacking documentary (with the best soundtrack thanks to Opus Orange) I’d ever seen. My father was an instant fan. Always a supporter of my adventures, although never being adventurous himself and kind of puzzled by me, we watched the movie together a couple of times before I hit the trail in July. I hiked the trail without a tent, stove, or other luxuries and did it in 7 days. My father passed away suddenly a month later. I'm so glad he was able to "experience" the JMT, and so many other thru-hikes through me.
In 2016, after seeing MMAH about a million times, (my daughter rolling her eyes each time I suggested watching with a new willing candidate) we were in YNP for our annual winter Gathering, hanging out in the "puzzle room" in Curry Village...what my daughter always called their lounge...and in walks Jason Fitzpatrick from MMAH. I introduced myself and we hit it off. There was a wind storm that night that closed Curry Village and they moved us all over to Yosemite Lodge. Jason and I sat in their lobby for hours talking.
Fast forward a couple years, and I worked with Jason, and another film maker, on a benefit for the Outdoor Ed school I'd just opened. Jason was going to show a couple of his movies and the other gentleman was going to do the same. One of Jason's movies was NOATAK, Return to the Arctic. The movie is about two dear friends returning to the Noatak River 35 years after their first visit to the Brooks Range. I'd seen it before and loved it. Because Jason was showing it, he invited Jim Slinger, one of the two men in the film, to attend a panel after the movies were shown. While Tip lived across the country, Jim only lived a handful of hours away and would drive up for the benefit. Jason, and his MMAH crew had met Jim and his partner in crime Tip, at the Muir Hut when hiking the JMT and filming MMAH in 2013. They kept in touch and were so moved by their story, they flew to Alaska and made a movie about them a few years later.
Being introduced just before the show, I was instantly taken by Jim. His dry sense of humor, intelligence, and kindness were all very attractive qualities. After the event had finished, we all went out to a nearby pub to visit. I ended up at a table with Jim and was privileged enough to hear more about his adventurous life. He was fascinating. His connection to water and boats led to his interest in my daughter who was rowing Crew at the time. He really wanted to meet her. The following year, my daughter and I took a Spring Break road trip, as we did every year, and made a stop at Jim and his wonderful wife Susan's home in Watsonville, CA. We stayed for a night and were treated to slide shows, laughter, and kindness. My daughter and I would return many times.
In 2020, a friend of mine and I, because of the movie Noatak, started talking about doing a trip to Alaska. After a lot of research, and a trip to stay with Jim and Susan for a weekend to talk about options, we decided to hit the Noatak ourselves. Jim even offered to let us use his boat. Two educators headed to Alaska borrowing the boat of two other educators who had taken that very boat to Alaska many times before. We had most of the other gear needed (as backpacking and floating gear is very similar) and dug into research. We would talk to Jim many times over the next few months and it was at that time that I was virtually introduced to Tip.
Our 3 week adventure in the Gates of the Arctic National Park is really indescribable. My daughter made a video of the trip that embarases her at this point in her life because she was "so young".... but I still love it. We came home from AK and I kept visiting Jim, still having never met Tip in person.
In 2016, after seeing MMAH about a million times, (my daughter rolling her eyes each time I suggested watching with a new willing candidate) we were in YNP for our annual winter Gathering, hanging out in the "puzzle room" in Curry Village...what my daughter always called their lounge...and in walks Jason Fitzpatrick from MMAH. I introduced myself and we hit it off. There was a wind storm that night that closed Curry Village and they moved us all over to Yosemite Lodge. Jason and I sat in their lobby for hours talking.
Fast forward a couple years, and I worked with Jason, and another film maker, on a benefit for the Outdoor Ed school I'd just opened. Jason was going to show a couple of his movies and the other gentleman was going to do the same. One of Jason's movies was NOATAK, Return to the Arctic. The movie is about two dear friends returning to the Noatak River 35 years after their first visit to the Brooks Range. I'd seen it before and loved it. Because Jason was showing it, he invited Jim Slinger, one of the two men in the film, to attend a panel after the movies were shown. While Tip lived across the country, Jim only lived a handful of hours away and would drive up for the benefit. Jason, and his MMAH crew had met Jim and his partner in crime Tip, at the Muir Hut when hiking the JMT and filming MMAH in 2013. They kept in touch and were so moved by their story, they flew to Alaska and made a movie about them a few years later.
Being introduced just before the show, I was instantly taken by Jim. His dry sense of humor, intelligence, and kindness were all very attractive qualities. After the event had finished, we all went out to a nearby pub to visit. I ended up at a table with Jim and was privileged enough to hear more about his adventurous life. He was fascinating. His connection to water and boats led to his interest in my daughter who was rowing Crew at the time. He really wanted to meet her. The following year, my daughter and I took a Spring Break road trip, as we did every year, and made a stop at Jim and his wonderful wife Susan's home in Watsonville, CA. We stayed for a night and were treated to slide shows, laughter, and kindness. My daughter and I would return many times.
In 2020, a friend of mine and I, because of the movie Noatak, started talking about doing a trip to Alaska. After a lot of research, and a trip to stay with Jim and Susan for a weekend to talk about options, we decided to hit the Noatak ourselves. Jim even offered to let us use his boat. Two educators headed to Alaska borrowing the boat of two other educators who had taken that very boat to Alaska many times before. We had most of the other gear needed (as backpacking and floating gear is very similar) and dug into research. We would talk to Jim many times over the next few months and it was at that time that I was virtually introduced to Tip.
Our 3 week adventure in the Gates of the Arctic National Park is really indescribable. My daughter made a video of the trip that embarases her at this point in her life because she was "so young".... but I still love it. We came home from AK and I kept visiting Jim, still having never met Tip in person.
In 2023, I hiked the Colorado Trail and 3 days after returning home, drove into the Eastern Sierras to meet Jason, Derek - another dear friend - a couple other MMAH characters, another new friend, and Tip! We spent 5 days in Miter Basin, probably one of my favorite places on earth. Tip and I spoke a lot on that trip. He shared with me he was saddened that there might not be any other trips in the future with Jim. They'd gone on a single Sierra backpacking trip since 2015 but that was all. His hopes were high they’d be together again in the backcountry.
Photo Credit - Ric Serena Photo Credit - Ric Serena
I truly thought there was a good chance of getting Jim out into the backcountry again. I thought this was even more possible if I acted as a "sherpa" of sorts to carry some of Jim's gear. Tip was interested in this scenario and I made a plan to go visit Jim sometime that fall to talk to him about it in person. In October, my wife and I drove down and spent the day with Jim and Susan. When, over lunch, I brought up a supported trip with Tip, it was Susan that insisted it happen. I immediately texted Tip who was ecstatic. It was go time!
I started an email thread with Jim and Tip discussing options. I wanted to go to a place I knew well, so that maybe we could base camp and do a variety of day hike adventures. After all, Jim would be 86 and Tip 82. I suggested Humphrey's Basin, one of my other favorite places on the planet. They were in. I suggested some dates and we found a week that would work for all. They put together the guest list themselves since this would be a trip to support and celebrate their friendship and life full of adventures. I created an email that went out to all.
In the end, there were 15 people coming and going over the week. Only one night had all 15 present. New friends. Old friends. So many interesting networks of friendship.
In the end, there were 15 people coming and going over the week. Only one night had all 15 present. New friends. Old friends. So many interesting networks of friendship.
Day 1
Tip flew into the Sacramento Airport and my good friend Pablo picked him up. Jim drove from his home in Watsonville and we all met at my house, loaded our gear in my car, and headed down 395 towards the town of Bishop and the North Lake Trailhead. We arrived and hit the trail about 6:30 pm. Pablo and I took about 15 pounds each out of Tip and Jim’s backpacks and began the hike up towards Piute Pass.
Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez
After winding our way up almost 700 ft and a mile and a half, we found a terrific campsite for Jim and Tip to spend the night. Pablo and I gave back the gear we’d carried for them, watched them get settled in, and got back on the trail for the remaining 1300 ft climb and 5 miles of walking. The night was a bit hazy. We could only see as far as our headlights lit up the landscape. We didn't even see the two lakes we walked directly past. At one point, Pablo, who was in front of me, stopped and said, “I think we’re on top of the pass.”
Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez
Sure enough, we had topped out at 11,417 ' and had a mile of rolling downhill left to Murial Lake. At about 10:45 pm, we arrived at Muriel and found an open site to get unpacked and settled. After a lot of reorganizing to get ready for the next day, we each lay down at about 12 am to sleep.
Day 2
We woke at 5 am, packed snacks and water for the day in all but empty backpacks, and headed back down the 5 miles to Jim and Tip. The hike started in the dark and as the sky lit up the world came alive. It was an enjoyable and beautiful hike and we arrived at Jim and Tip’s camp at about 7:30 am. Pablo bushwhacked to get some water for all as Jim and Tip finished packing up. Pablo and I took close to half of each of their pack contents/weight and we were back on the trail about 9 am. We had an enjoyable hike back up to Muriel. We took long breaks at Loch Leven and Piute Lakes and many shorter ones in between. Jim and Tip were strong and amazing. I said more times than I can count on this trip that I can only hope to be in close to the same shape as these two at that age. We took turns walking in a group of 4 and other times two groups of two. We told stories, laughed (there was some nap time too!) and enjoyed each other every step of the way.
At 3:30 pm, we arrived at Muriel. We found the best two sites for Jim and Tip and as they got camp set up, Pablo and I moved our tents to better spots (since it was dark when we arrived, we hadn’t chosen the best spots to camp for the week). Once set up, we enjoyed the weather, the views, and the company. Later, Pablo used his lightweight panini maker to create and cook amazing grilled cheese/pesto sandwiches filled with fresh tomato, pepper, and mushrooms. He spoiled us for sure. As the day grew later, the sun set in an infinite palette of colors. Not long after, the first few stars joined the tiny crescent moon and as the sky grew darker, the milky way lit up the sky in an amazing night time show. It was a terrific day in the high country.
Day 3
I awoke early (as usual) and walked over to a plateau just opposite of where we were camped just around a small finger of Muriel Lake. I’d end up taking this walk almost every day of our stay. It was a beautiful area with countless boulders strewn around, all offering comfortable places to take in the view and ponder. And just like most days, I was back in camp before anyone else had emerged from their tents. As I made some coffee, Pablo stuck his head out and then joined me. Tip and Jim would appear a bit later. After some breakfast and conversation, we decided as a group we would make the short hike up to Goethe Lakes.
It was about ¾ mile to the first lake where we sat and took in the amazing views. Lower Goethe was a good sized lake but upper Goethe was more than twice the size. Behind the second lake sat Goethe Glacier. It was stunning. Jim decided he wanted to walk up a bit further to try to see the upper lake so he and I made our way through the talus on the west side of the lower lake. We got to a place where a small rise allowed us a good view of the upper lake before heading back. The four of us took a different route back to camp that dropped to the back side of Muriel Lake. We made our way along the western shore, enjoying the view of the lake from a completely different angle. Muriel Peak loomed 1500 ft above us at just about 12,800’.
Various Photo Credits - Pablo Gomez
Back at camp we snacked, rested, talked, and enjoyed the silence.
Jason, JC, Durand, PB, and Kit showed up at about 3:30 pm. They got their camps set up and joined us for dinner and conversation. It was a terrific infusion of positive energy. Old friends seeing each other for the first time in ages, others meeting for the first time in person, and still others being introduced for the very first time. We enjoyed these shared friendships that only true wilderness can offer. Laughter echoed over the lake as stories were shared.
Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez
The sun dipped behind the 8 Mile Divide, painting the sky in shades of orange and pink. As the night deepened, we fell into a comfortable rhythm—some of us chatting, others simply watching the stars emerge one by one. It was a perfect moment of connection, both with nature and each other.
Photo Credit - PB
Day 4
After a beautiful and calm night, I awoke early to take my morning walk out to the plateau. The sunrise was spectacular. There’s nothing quite like being lucky enough to see the sunset and sunrise each and every day in the high country. It’s rare that I miss either when in the backcountry.
The group started to emerge shortly after I returned to camp. Pablo, JC, and I had decided the night before to hike to the Lost Lakes, an area that had been on my bucket list for decades. We offered it up to others in the group and in the end were just three. Jim and Tip decided to stay in camp for the day and save themselves for a bigger hike the following day. The others explored close to camp.
Pablo, JC and I hiked around the east side of Muriel Lake and ascended the steep talus into the Lost Lakes basin. At the top, we found the first of the four beautiful lakes. With very little growth this high, 11,670', the alpine area was barren, rugged, and remote. We made our way past lakes 2, 3 and 4 to the base of an age-old glacier. Water melted out from the bottom and we filled our bottles without filtering, drinking as much as our bellies could hold. We watched birds flutter around the glacier and tried to pick out Keyhole Pass just above us.
The group started to emerge shortly after I returned to camp. Pablo, JC, and I had decided the night before to hike to the Lost Lakes, an area that had been on my bucket list for decades. We offered it up to others in the group and in the end were just three. Jim and Tip decided to stay in camp for the day and save themselves for a bigger hike the following day. The others explored close to camp.
Pablo, JC and I hiked around the east side of Muriel Lake and ascended the steep talus into the Lost Lakes basin. At the top, we found the first of the four beautiful lakes. With very little growth this high, 11,670', the alpine area was barren, rugged, and remote. We made our way past lakes 2, 3 and 4 to the base of an age-old glacier. Water melted out from the bottom and we filled our bottles without filtering, drinking as much as our bellies could hold. We watched birds flutter around the glacier and tried to pick out Keyhole Pass just above us.
After our stay, we made our way back down to the first lake before turning left and making our way across the face of Muriel Peak. What looked like a sheer face of granite from below, turned into a large ledge that even had a small tarn that we passed as we made our way to the opening of Goethe Lakes. From above we saw some of our group down below on the shore.
Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez
We made our way down and joined PB and Kit hanging out under their silver umbrellas. As we descended, Durand had begun making his way deeper into the canyon. In the end, he’d hike south and try to get over the ridge into the next canyon. After making his way to the top, and down about 20 feet, he decided it was a bit too sketchy to do alone and spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying Goethe Glacier, rockfall, the aloneness of the canyon, and the walk back.
Photo Credit - PB Photo Credit - Durand Trench
JC, Pablo, and I hiked over the ridge above lower Goethe Lake and ended up just above the unnamed lakes at 11183’. Their emerald blue color was stunning. From there we headed back to camp and not long after Durand returned as well. Our off trail hike had been 5.33 miles with 1509’ of ascent and 1650’ of descent.
That afternoon, we sat around in the area just under where my tent was pitched. It was “the kitchen” area and had a wide 270 degree view of the area facing southwest.
That afternoon, we sat around in the area just under where my tent was pitched. It was “the kitchen” area and had a wide 270 degree view of the area facing southwest.
Photo Credit - PB
Jim was standing with his back to the view telling stories to the group who were sitting and facing him. He’d been standing and talking for well over 30-40 minutes when it happened. Some thought a gust of wind had blown while others just thought he’d lost his balance. Jim said he’d been standing for so long and was so engrossed in his story, he’d forgotten his immediate surroundings and just how close he’d been to the edge. (After the trip, a orthopedic surgeon speculated that the tendon tear was what actually caused the fall.). Whatever the reasoning was, one minute he was standing and had us riveted, and the next he was tumbling backwards.
He seemed to fall in slow motion trying to stop himself as he fell. He bounced off two different boulders and stopped abruptly on a ledge that dropped another 8-10 feet into the shallow off-shore waters of Muriel Lake. In all, he’d fallen about 15-20 feet. Everyone was at his side in seconds. He was a bit dazed and there was some blood on the pant leg of his right knee. Kit and I moved into action and started asking most of the correct questions in a situation like this one. I took his pulse while Kit asked him questions about his injuries. His airway and circulation and other vital signs were normal. I asked him to palpitate his own head, arms, and legs. The only pain he had was his knee. In retrospect, this is the step I regret not completing properly. Wilderness First Responder Training directs the rescuer to do a much more thorough head to toe examination and then to expose all injuries. We only found the knee injury at this time.
Understandably, Jim wanted to get back up the embankment and into his chair. He started to try on his own, but the knee was causing him way too much pain and others had to support almost all of his weight to get him back up. Once in his chair, his right knee exposed, it was evident he had a large and deep gash. Kit spent time stopping the bleeding, applying antibiotic and we bandaged the area together.
Jim sat with us for a while that afternoon and had almost no pain when sitting still. But, when moving the leg he experienced quite a bit of pain. We were unsure how much this had to do with the wound and how much might be internal. Jim was still adamant that he might be able to walk out on our scheduled day. Most others were doubtful.
About 7:00pm pm, Derek, his daughter Soph, and his brother in law, Anthony, all showed up. We all gathered for a quiet dinner. We later helped Jim to his tent and it was obvious to all that this was more than a deep gash to the knee. Something else was injured. We got Jim settled into his tent, with a backpacker “pee bottle” and made sure he knew he could call on us anytime during the night.
He seemed to fall in slow motion trying to stop himself as he fell. He bounced off two different boulders and stopped abruptly on a ledge that dropped another 8-10 feet into the shallow off-shore waters of Muriel Lake. In all, he’d fallen about 15-20 feet. Everyone was at his side in seconds. He was a bit dazed and there was some blood on the pant leg of his right knee. Kit and I moved into action and started asking most of the correct questions in a situation like this one. I took his pulse while Kit asked him questions about his injuries. His airway and circulation and other vital signs were normal. I asked him to palpitate his own head, arms, and legs. The only pain he had was his knee. In retrospect, this is the step I regret not completing properly. Wilderness First Responder Training directs the rescuer to do a much more thorough head to toe examination and then to expose all injuries. We only found the knee injury at this time.
Understandably, Jim wanted to get back up the embankment and into his chair. He started to try on his own, but the knee was causing him way too much pain and others had to support almost all of his weight to get him back up. Once in his chair, his right knee exposed, it was evident he had a large and deep gash. Kit spent time stopping the bleeding, applying antibiotic and we bandaged the area together.
Jim sat with us for a while that afternoon and had almost no pain when sitting still. But, when moving the leg he experienced quite a bit of pain. We were unsure how much this had to do with the wound and how much might be internal. Jim was still adamant that he might be able to walk out on our scheduled day. Most others were doubtful.
About 7:00pm pm, Derek, his daughter Soph, and his brother in law, Anthony, all showed up. We all gathered for a quiet dinner. We later helped Jim to his tent and it was obvious to all that this was more than a deep gash to the knee. Something else was injured. We got Jim settled into his tent, with a backpacker “pee bottle” and made sure he knew he could call on us anytime during the night.
Photo Credit - Derek Loranger
The rest of us gathered for a bit for sunset, all in a bit of shock ourselves about what had just happened.
Day 5
The gusty winds of the previous afternoon had really picked up overnight. The night was filled with wind gusts that bent tent poles and pushed tent fabric inward. Most of us were awakened many times.
My walk to the plateau was windy and cold, but the sunrise, as always, was spectacular.
Jim awoke just after I got back and reported having a “good night” with “lots of sleep.” His desire was to stay in his tent for the day and he was adamant that others should go out and enjoy their day. Tip decided to stay around camp and sit and visit with his long time friend. Jim needed very little help all day long other than moving a jacket around on the mesh of his tent to keep the sun out of his eyes.
Jason, Durand, Pablo, JC, and I went for a hike. We dropped off the northern ledge of Muriel Lake and into Humphrey’s Basin. As we ascended to the middle of the basin, we had views of almost the entire 8 Mile Divide to our left, the Desolation Lakes to our right, and glimpses of our destination, Puppet Pass, directly ahead. After a gradual off-trail ascent, we arrived at Mesa Lake and Jason decided to take a break and wait for us on the way back.
My walk to the plateau was windy and cold, but the sunrise, as always, was spectacular.
Jim awoke just after I got back and reported having a “good night” with “lots of sleep.” His desire was to stay in his tent for the day and he was adamant that others should go out and enjoy their day. Tip decided to stay around camp and sit and visit with his long time friend. Jim needed very little help all day long other than moving a jacket around on the mesh of his tent to keep the sun out of his eyes.
Jason, Durand, Pablo, JC, and I went for a hike. We dropped off the northern ledge of Muriel Lake and into Humphrey’s Basin. As we ascended to the middle of the basin, we had views of almost the entire 8 Mile Divide to our left, the Desolation Lakes to our right, and glimpses of our destination, Puppet Pass, directly ahead. After a gradual off-trail ascent, we arrived at Mesa Lake and Jason decided to take a break and wait for us on the way back.
Photo Credit - Durand Trench
After another mile, mile and a half of ridge walking, we arrived atop Puppet Pass at 11743' overlooking Star Lake, Roget Lake, Lorraine Lake, Puppet Lake, Paris Lake, Alsace Lake with Royce Lakes in the distance. It was spectacular.
We had some snacks and water before finding a ridge that led us right back to Jason. From there we dropped a bit lower than our approach and skirted the shore of the beautiful Tomahawk Lake before dropping down through our first forest of the basin. Soon we were where Piute Creek fed into Lower Golden Trout Lake.
We had another good rest with snacks and water before making our way up to Upper Golden Trout Lake though an amazing meadow and then back up to Muriel Lake. Our hike had been 8.75 miles with 2142’ of ascent and 2234’ of descent. A wonderful day. I had a nice swim in Muriel Lake when we returned.
Ric and Jen showed up later in the afternoon. It was wonderful to have the entire group of 15 together for the night. We helped Jim from his tent to his chair and all congregated for dinner. Later in the night, as drinks came out, PB pulled out his ukulele and we all enjoyed his amazing talent. Jim was in great spirits and told us he wanted to stay as long as possible. Discussion of a possible evacuation continued and Jim was also starting to think that might be what would be required.
JC was leaving the next morning and his plan was to drive to the ranger station in Bishop to frontload them with our situation and also connect a ranger with my inReach. The hope was that this would cut down on the back and forth texting if we needed to pull the trigger on an evacuation.
Ric and Jen showed up later in the afternoon. It was wonderful to have the entire group of 15 together for the night. We helped Jim from his tent to his chair and all congregated for dinner. Later in the night, as drinks came out, PB pulled out his ukulele and we all enjoyed his amazing talent. Jim was in great spirits and told us he wanted to stay as long as possible. Discussion of a possible evacuation continued and Jim was also starting to think that might be what would be required.
JC was leaving the next morning and his plan was to drive to the ranger station in Bishop to frontload them with our situation and also connect a ranger with my inReach. The hope was that this would cut down on the back and forth texting if we needed to pull the trigger on an evacuation.
Photo Credits - Ric Serena
After watching the sun disappear behind the Divide and the stars appear, we turned in for another windy night.
Day 6
Another gusty night. Even more so than the previous. Instead of a morning walk, I watched the sunrise from my tent. I got out of bed to say goodbye to JC and had breakfast with Jason and Pablo.
Today was to be the hike in which we would see the full northeast corner of the basin. I was excited to take the group on a hike I’d taken my daughter and two friends on just a couple years earlier. PB and Kit had offered to stay close to camp to help out with Jim so that the rest of the group could come. It was so very kind of them to offer. Both of them are terrific, giving people.
We began the hike about 9:30 am and went in the same direction we’d all arrived. Hiking back to Piute Pass and continuing on the perpendicular ridge, we ascended into an area of dry tarns. We must have passed 8-10 dry ones before we came to our first lake. All of these tarns were full when I was here in the month of June two years ago.
Today was to be the hike in which we would see the full northeast corner of the basin. I was excited to take the group on a hike I’d taken my daughter and two friends on just a couple years earlier. PB and Kit had offered to stay close to camp to help out with Jim so that the rest of the group could come. It was so very kind of them to offer. Both of them are terrific, giving people.
We began the hike about 9:30 am and went in the same direction we’d all arrived. Hiking back to Piute Pass and continuing on the perpendicular ridge, we ascended into an area of dry tarns. We must have passed 8-10 dry ones before we came to our first lake. All of these tarns were full when I was here in the month of June two years ago.
Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez Photo Credit - Pablo Gomez
Photo Credit - Ric Serena Photo Credit - Ric Serena
Our path went just east of Cony Lakes and Marmot Lake, close to the 12200 line, and towards the Humphrey Lakes area. We took a long break at Upper Humphrey Lake where some swam, some fished and two put together an amazing charcuterie board fit for kings and queens (Thanks Derek and Soph!). The sandy beach was hard to leave, but we needed to move on. All but Durand, who stayed for a while to record the lapping of the lake on his sound equipment, made their way east and over the ridge off the lake.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena
We aimed for Forsaken Lake, a true gem. We hit a couple unnamed lakes on the way. The fish were too much for Pablo and Anthony and they stayed for a bit to test their luck.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
Photo Credit - Ric Serena Photo Credit - Ric Serena
From there, it was a steep descent to Forsaken and Tip led the way.
Forsaken drained into a spectacular outlet which I walked alone as others were above me on a use trail. We’d heard nothing by noon from JC. My inReach satellite device was on but nothing.
Photo Credit - Ric Serena Photo Credit - Ric Serena
We dropped to Desolation Lake and took a short break by its windy shores. After some snacks and water, we continued on a use-trail that would take us along the shores of the stunning Lower Desolation Lake and into the bottom of Humphrey’s Basin. Crossing Piute Creek, Pablo decided to try his fishing luck again. The wind was a bit much and he rejoined us soon after.
As we arrived back at camp after an 8.26-mile loop with 1811’ ascent and 1693’ descent, I received a message from JC. All Ranger stations were closed on Mondays it turned out (good old Government) and he’d have to call again on Tuesday when they opened. He told me I'd hear from him right after his 8:30 am call.
As we arrived back at camp after an 8.26-mile loop with 1811’ ascent and 1693’ descent, I received a message from JC. All Ranger stations were closed on Mondays it turned out (good old Government) and he’d have to call again on Tuesday when they opened. He told me I'd hear from him right after his 8:30 am call.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Ric Serena
Later that night, we started talking more about an evacuation and also about maybe needing to hit the SOS button on the inReach if JC wasn’t able to get things rolling. Everyone except Jim, Tip, Pablo, and I were planning on hiking out the following day, and tonight was the first time Jim mentioned that he thought he was ready to go home. He was a bit concerned about the potential cost of a helicopter evacuation and was interested in whether he could get the pilots to drop him in Bishop for us to pick him up (being that this would be the closest possible landing spot for the evacuation.) Pablo and I decided that if we couldn’t get the ball rolling in the morning with JC, we’d have to hit the SOS button for sure. We wanted to make sure we had a buffer of time since we had absolutely no idea how long an evacuation would really take. We’d all heard stories of 6-8 hours or even a full day for Search and Rescue to be able to organize an evacuation and get to a patient. We wanted to make sure Jim didn’t have to wait any longer than he wanted to. We turned in that night after getting Jim settled, watching the sunset and the stars emerge and all slipping into our tents. The wind gusts had finally subsided.
Day 7
Woke to no winds at all and made my way to the plateau. Sunrise was a special one. The group would break up today. We’d had a very special time together deepening long time friendships, while building new ones. This was an incredible group of people who I’m honored that I got to spend time with in such a special place. Chances of this same group ever coming together again are slim at best and I truly hope I can stay in touch with each and every one of them going forward. It was surreal getting to spend time with them all after so many years of “watching” them and “listening” to them in Mile Mile and a Half, Noatak and Spotify (my top listen in 2024 was Opus Orange….again).
The group woke up and appeared early. Jason headed out first. Derek, Soph, and Anthony would head out an hour and a half later.
The group woke up and appeared early. Jason headed out first. Derek, Soph, and Anthony would head out an hour and a half later.
Photo Credit - Derek Loranger Photo Credit - Ric Serena
Coffee was enjoyed and breakfast was consumed. At 8:45 am I received a message from JC. Basically, the word was that even though he’d gotten in touch with a Forest Ranger, he was instructed to tell me to hit the SOS and was told it was the best way to proceed.
Photo Credit - Ric Serena
At 9:08 am I hit the SOS button. This was to be a fascinating learning experience for us all. In a situation that wasn’t calling for immediacy, it would be an opportunity for the entire group to learn a lot about the process of hitting the SOS button in the backcountry and the progression of events to follow.
At 9:09 am Emergency Response acknowledged the SOS call and asked for details about the emergency.
By 9:15 am, I’d typed out a SOAP report. A SOAP report is a standardized format used by Emergency Medical Services personnel to document patient care and assessment. It provides a structured way to organize information in patient reports, helping ensure clear communication and documentation of the care provided.
SOAP stands for: Subjective, Objective, Assessment and Plan. For those interested, here is what each of those terms represents:
At 9:19 am Emergency Response confirmed receipt of the SOAP report and reported they were working on a plan to get to our location.
At 9:21 am I asked if I’d get a response with an ETA so that we could pack and prep the patient.
At 9:24 am Emergency Response communicated that we would be contacted by emergency services directly to provide details on the rescue.
At this point we all felt confident that we had made the right choice by hitting the SOS button. Only Jason, Derek, Soph, and Anthony had left camp that morning and started down to the trailhead. The rest of the group, 10 of us, were still present. Six more had planned to leave and all were standing around chatting. We all thought we had quite some time before we’d hear anything back over the inReach.
At 9:09 am Emergency Response acknowledged the SOS call and asked for details about the emergency.
By 9:15 am, I’d typed out a SOAP report. A SOAP report is a standardized format used by Emergency Medical Services personnel to document patient care and assessment. It provides a structured way to organize information in patient reports, helping ensure clear communication and documentation of the care provided.
SOAP stands for: Subjective, Objective, Assessment and Plan. For those interested, here is what each of those terms represents:
- Subjective: Information the patient provides, including symptoms, medical history, and any descriptions of how they are feeling. This section captures the patient's perspective on the problem.
- Objective: Observable, measurable facts, including vital signs, physical exam findings, and any data collected by the rescuer.
- Assessment: The rescuer’s evaluation of the patient's condition based on the subjective and objective information gathered. This may include potential diagnoses or the severity of the patient's condition.
- Plan: The treatment or intervention steps taken by the rescuer, such as medications administered or transport decisions.
At 9:19 am Emergency Response confirmed receipt of the SOAP report and reported they were working on a plan to get to our location.
At 9:21 am I asked if I’d get a response with an ETA so that we could pack and prep the patient.
At 9:24 am Emergency Response communicated that we would be contacted by emergency services directly to provide details on the rescue.
At this point we all felt confident that we had made the right choice by hitting the SOS button. Only Jason, Derek, Soph, and Anthony had left camp that morning and started down to the trailhead. The rest of the group, 10 of us, were still present. Six more had planned to leave and all were standing around chatting. We all thought we had quite some time before we’d hear anything back over the inReach.
Photo Credit - Derek Loranger
At 9:54 am a noise that sounded just like a helicopter would sound started building from the canyon below. Fifteen seconds or so later it was clear…it was indeed a helicopter. The pilot and co-pilot roared over the southeastern side of the lake no more than 30 feet above the water. It was clear from the start that this Fresno County Sheriff's Department Helicopter didn’t have much lift at 11,336’, the elevation of Muriel Lake’s surface. The chopper circled around the lake and surrounding area many times assessing the situation and looking for a landing area. With each loop the chopper was lower and closer. The sound was deafening.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
The group went into high gear. Some were helping Jim dress, while others started packing his backpack. Once Jim was dressed, others helped him out of his tent and into his chair while still others packed the tent. It was a total and complete group effort. Someone pulled his jacket out of his backpack so he’d have it. In the rush, the jacket never made it on him.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
A Sheriff approached the group and I stepped out to speak to him. He was wearing a headset and I had to yell for him to hear me. He told me they’d landed as close as they could get; about 100 yards north of where Jim sat. I asked if he had a stretcher to get Jim to the chopper and he said that he didn’t have a stretcher and that the group would need to get him loaded. He explained where we could safely be when around the helicopter and where it was unsafe. He was very clear about this and wanted to make sure we all understood. He told me he’d be flying Jim to the airport in Bishop. Then, he pointed at the backpack and asked if it was “about 50 pounds” saying, “we have very little room and can’t take much weight.” I assured him the pack was closer to 35 lbs at which point he walked over to the pack and picked it up. He seemed to be ok with the weight and turned and walked away from the group towards the helicopter. We silently took that as a sign to follow him. Pablo and Ric got under Jim’s arms while others helped clear rocks to make it easier for Jim to shuffle his way to the chopper. The closer we got, the louder it got.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena
Pablo, Ric, and I positioned ourselves under the door of the helicopter and Jim did his best to reach for a handle and raise his good leg to the step. As Jim stepped himself up, the three of us winced. We were all working hard to keep our heads low and Jim was only focused on getting loaded. It was an adrenaline filled couple of minutes.
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
Once loaded, Pablo and Ric faded back with the rest of the group who had stopped a good distance away on a ledge for a good view of Jim. I started heading back as well but the Sheriff motioned for me to return. Jim was not all the way inside and his right leg, his injured leg, was still hanging outside of the doorway. The doorway that had no doors. In fact, there were no doors on any of the four doorways. I approached the chopper and stood up on the first step under Jim. He was packed in like a sardine and had no room whatsoever. I leaned in over him and started wrestling with his backpack to scoot it over to make more room. The Sheriff appeared on the other side to help. Next, I unbuckled Jim’s seatbelt so that I could carefully maneuver him back and over to make enough room to get that injured leg inside. I moved the leg as carefully as I could, but it was obvious that it was still quite a painful maneuver for Jim. Finally, he was fully inside the door. I re-buckled his seatbelt, gave him a pat on the shoulder, and a thumbs up, before carefully starting to back away from the helicopter. Once again, the Sheriff called me back over. This time to tell me that instead of flying him to Bishop, they were going to be flying him to Mammoth.
Photo Credits - Ric Serena
The chopper prepared for take off. The blades spun faster and the wind picked up furiously. Being closer to the helicopter than the group, I ducked behind a large boulder and just kept my head above to be able to see. The rest of the group was wide open. The chopper worked hard to slowly lift off the ground with Jim waving and giving a thumbs up to the group. As it did, it slowly rotated about 270 degrees counterclockwise until it was directly facing the cliff to the basin below. Just as slowly, it moved about 40 feet to the edge before pulling into a deep dive downward into Humprey’s Basin. It made an entire counterclockwise loop of the basin, before heading straight over Piute Pass and down the canyon towards the Owens River Valley.
The group was in awe and a bit of shock from what had just transpired so quickly. We all walked back to camp and began packing up our own gear. Pablo, Tip, and I would be hiking all the way to the Trailhead and then driving straight to Mammoth. Ric, Jen, PB, Kit, and Durand would be hiking about halfway to the trailhead, camping for one more night, and then heading down and home the next day.
We left as a group and hiked together until we hit Piute Pass. We said our goodbyes there and our group headed towards the trailhead.
We left as a group and hiked together until we hit Piute Pass. We said our goodbyes there and our group headed towards the trailhead.
Photo Credit - Ric Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
Photo Credit - Jen Serena Photo Credit - Jen Serena
Photo Credit - Ric Serena
We made wonderful time and hit the car just 3 ½ hours from our camp. Our hike down was filled with stories and laughs, the same vibe as the entire trip. Jim was going to be ok. We’d successfully initiated an SOS evacuation and were on our way to grab Jim and get some dinner before the drive back to Sacramento.
We got to Jim at about 5pm. He walked out of the Mammoth Emergency Room with only the help of a walker. He was in good spirits and in a new pair of navy sweatpants (his two pairs from the trip were quite bloody.) Jim shared that the first 5 minutes or so spent as the helicopter took off, circled the basin and flew over the pass, were extremely cold and windy. At over 11000’ with a temperature of around 58, wind chill was a real thing! Assuming a typical helicopter speed of 100 to 150 mph, Jim felt the temperature drop significantly. Based on general wind chill calculations, the air that pummeled Jim probably felt like it was around 35 to 45°F. Cold for sure! Luckily, this only lasted minutes before the helicopter descended quickly to the much warmer Owens River Valley and then to Mammoth. We'd forgotten to give him his jacket in the mayhem just minutes before loading him.
Jim also shared that he had a nice talk with the helicopter pilots at the Mammoth airport before being picked up by the ambulance and driven to the hospital. When he asked how much the helicopter ride was going to cost him, one of the Sheriffs told him, “Nothing, the taxpayers paid for this one.” What a relief for Jim.
We headed from the hospital to get some food. While Tip, Pablo and I got meals for the road, Jim had been fed at the hospital. His only request, a chocolate milkshake please. He enjoyed that shake immensely during our drive back to Sacramento which took about 4.5 hours.
Jim and Tip would stay together in a hotel that night and the next morning Tip flew back to San Diego and Pablo and I drove Jim and his car back home. After a delicious breakfast out with Jim and his wife Susan, we hit the road back to Sacramento.
In the end, it’s the friendships we form and the connections we deepen that truly define our adventures, both in the frontcountry and the backcountry. My time with Jim, Tip and the other 12 amazing people, reminded me that every journey is strengthened by the connections we share. From our laughter-filled evenings watching the sunset and stars appear, to all of our special moments in Humphrey’s Basin, each experience deepened our friendships. It’s always a good reminder for me that it’s not just the stunning vistas or the crazy physical challenges that linger in our hearts, but the people who join us for these adventures. During our shared days in Humphrey’s it was so much more than just an adventure, we found a deep sense of connection and belonging, reminding us all that it’s the bonds we form that make the experience truly meaningful.
We got to Jim at about 5pm. He walked out of the Mammoth Emergency Room with only the help of a walker. He was in good spirits and in a new pair of navy sweatpants (his two pairs from the trip were quite bloody.) Jim shared that the first 5 minutes or so spent as the helicopter took off, circled the basin and flew over the pass, were extremely cold and windy. At over 11000’ with a temperature of around 58, wind chill was a real thing! Assuming a typical helicopter speed of 100 to 150 mph, Jim felt the temperature drop significantly. Based on general wind chill calculations, the air that pummeled Jim probably felt like it was around 35 to 45°F. Cold for sure! Luckily, this only lasted minutes before the helicopter descended quickly to the much warmer Owens River Valley and then to Mammoth. We'd forgotten to give him his jacket in the mayhem just minutes before loading him.
Jim also shared that he had a nice talk with the helicopter pilots at the Mammoth airport before being picked up by the ambulance and driven to the hospital. When he asked how much the helicopter ride was going to cost him, one of the Sheriffs told him, “Nothing, the taxpayers paid for this one.” What a relief for Jim.
We headed from the hospital to get some food. While Tip, Pablo and I got meals for the road, Jim had been fed at the hospital. His only request, a chocolate milkshake please. He enjoyed that shake immensely during our drive back to Sacramento which took about 4.5 hours.
Jim and Tip would stay together in a hotel that night and the next morning Tip flew back to San Diego and Pablo and I drove Jim and his car back home. After a delicious breakfast out with Jim and his wife Susan, we hit the road back to Sacramento.
In the end, it’s the friendships we form and the connections we deepen that truly define our adventures, both in the frontcountry and the backcountry. My time with Jim, Tip and the other 12 amazing people, reminded me that every journey is strengthened by the connections we share. From our laughter-filled evenings watching the sunset and stars appear, to all of our special moments in Humphrey’s Basin, each experience deepened our friendships. It’s always a good reminder for me that it’s not just the stunning vistas or the crazy physical challenges that linger in our hearts, but the people who join us for these adventures. During our shared days in Humphrey’s it was so much more than just an adventure, we found a deep sense of connection and belonging, reminding us all that it’s the bonds we form that make the experience truly meaningful.
Photo Credit - Jason Fitzpatrick