Day #1
7/16
The Arctic. Didn’t know if this trip would actually happen with COVID. But we are finally on our way. The airport in Sac was a ghost town. We were the only two people at the Alaska Airlines ticket counter getting checked in. It was eerie. Six bags checked through to Kotzebue, AK and a backpack over the shoulders. TSA was a breeze as well and we got a beer at one of the airport bars. All of this with masks on. The new reality. How amazing it will be to not wear one for 3 weeks.
Easy flight (minus masks) to Seattle and then a 1/2 mile walk to the Clarion hotel. Checked in at about 7 pm. Our plane tomorrow is in another 11 hours.
Went without food and bought 6 Heineken at the hotel “bar” for $45. Yup. You read the number correctly. To the room to chat and drink 3 a piece. Last night in a bed for a while.
Day #2
7/17
1 Easy Day Hike Mile
0 Paddle Miles
Up at 3:30 am and onto a Shuttle to airport with a woman with a dog and cat. JC is not a dog guy and I’m not a cat guy. She asked what airlines we were on and when she found out we were on the same flight she asked if we could help get her unloaded and to the ticket counter. Little did we know, after saying yes, of course, that she had hundreds of pounds of dog/cat carrying equipment and other things. We helped her unload and get into the airport grateful that neither one of us hurt ourselves with the weight. That would have been quite the story indeed.
Airport was quiet and we had our own TSA agents in a special “large bag” line even though all we both had were our 1/2 packed backpacks. Next was a 3.5 hour flight to Anchorage and those terrible masks for an extended time. When we landed there was lots of confusion over COVID. We were landing and leaving again from the same gate but wanted coffee so we started heading down the terminal. About 50 yards later a woman in a blue vest asked if we were coming from AK or Seattle. We told her Seattle and she asked if we had filled out all our COVID papers on line. We told her that we had filed out the paper versions that the AK Health Department website information explained. She said things had changed and we would have to stand in another line and fill it out on our phones. Both of us had had COVID tests within 72 hours of take off as instructed but Kaiser had not come back with results. This meant we would have to have another test in Anchorage, but we were still flying to Kotzebue and decided to try our luck there instead. We got out of line and walked right past the same woman towards our terminal as she was asking others the same set of questions.
Next was a 1.5 hour flight to Kotzebue with masks. There we were asked to fill out yet another short paper with COVID questions. We told the woman we had tested but hadn’t gotten results back and she pointed to another building where we needed to go to get tested. She looked at our papers and seeing that we weren’t visiting any villages didn’t seem intent on us testing. So, we didn’t walk to the building. We didn’t get tested. We were officially done with COVID for the next three weeks. No one, including our bush pilot, was wearing a mask or seemed concerned about COVID. Later our pilot, Jared, said no one in Kotzebue had gotten COVID as of yet. We got a ride from a daughter of one of the Golden Eagle Pilots and she took us to get our 12 bear cans at the temporarily shut down National Park Service Heritage Center. A ranger had left them outside for us to grab.
We changed our clothes at the hanger and did a bit of final organizing while waiting for Jared to return from another flight to be able to take us in. Once he landed we got our stove fuel and bear spray and he packed the plane. With our gear, there was just enough room for the three of us. JC was in front and I was behind the pilot. The flight took an hour and a half and the scenery was amazing. Jared taught us so much about AK, wildlife and back-country options.
We landed at Tupik Creek (we thought based on what Jared told us) instead of Lucky Six Creek because the gravel bar used as a landing strip had washed out. Gravel bars form and disappear many times each season based on the flow of the Noatak and the size of storms and water flowing in from tributaries. (We would learn this first hand a bit later in our adventure). Dropping into the final decent we were surprised to see a family of 4 on the gravel bar getting ready to push their boats off. After landing and getting all our gear out of the plane we talked to them a bit. Parents and a 10 year old daughter and 8 year old son. Mom was a pilot for Alaska Airlines and they lived in Anchorage. After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes and they floated off. The last humans we would see for 3 weeks.
We spent a long time filling our 12 bear cans and labeling each with blue painters tape and a Sharpie. I really didn’t want to guess what was in which of my 6 cans each time I wanted something since the cans look identical. Got reorganized and blew up boat. We filled the boat with all of our gear and it was extremely heavy. The boat is build to hold 900 lbs. our gear alone (without our weight) was about 300 lbs. The gravel bar was an island so we then lined the boat (one of us at each end of the boat with a rope that’s attached to the boat) upstream and crossed to the shore. There, we unloaded the boat and set up our first of many base camps. We spent a long time organizing more. We ate. And then we took a long walk inland on the small valley around our area. We saw a beautiful banded raptor who looked to be hunting just above the ground and lots of “carnage," bones and antlers. We headed back to camp and watched the sunset. We laid down for bed and looked at our watches for the first time since our plane landed at 4:00 pm. It was 1:30 am. We’d been up for 22 hours. How time flies when the sun doesn’t set.
Day #3
7/18
11 HARD Backpack/Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Slept till 8:30 today. Ate a good breakfast of oatmeal and coffee. Oh coffee. Set out by 12 and hiked 5 very hard miles up the Noatak valley. About 80 % of the hike was in the water while about 20% was on the banks and gravel bars. The current was very strong in the narrowest parts of the river. At about 5 pm we saw our first grizzly of the trip. It was up low on a mountainside paralleling the Noatak. A good far away first sighting. The bear never saw or smelled us so we were able to watch it very safely from afar. At about 6 we were beat and found a high gravel bar to camp on for the night. We set up camp and repacked, taking dinner and cooking equipment with us, to do more miles upriver but without our heavy packs. We had heard there might be a wolf den at Lucky Six (our original drop off spot) and were excited to try to find it as well as get as far up towards the headwaters of the Noatak as possible. Beautiful hike in and out of the water. By the time we hit our pillows today we would have crossed the Noatak more than 50 times. A bit of rain on the way back to camp. An 11 mile day, hard miles. Came upon many caribou antlers and even two musk ox horns. We also saw a snow shoe rabbit foot. Yup the foot and some bone. The foot looked totally normal and was still covered in sparking while fir.
JC went to bed and I stayed up taking pictures and writing in my journal as the sun just started to set a little while after midnight. Amazing day in the Noatak.
Day #4
7/19
6 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
I woke early to take pictures and wander around and JC slept in. We packed up and left camp about 10:40. We walked the 5 miles back to our food cache (on the way out of base camp yesterday we had left a bear canister at the head of the canyon we were headed to today. This would save us from carrying 3 days of food up the Noatak drainage and save us 2 miles-one to camp to get it and one back). On the way to the food we saw our second grizzly bear. It was higher up the opposite bank. Unlike the other bear that never noticed us from across the river, this one a few minutes in turned it’s head directly towards us and smelled the air. And ran. He went over a rise and we never saw him again. It was unbelievable that he could smell us from a quarter mile away and fascinating to watch it happen.
All through the drainage we found tons of carnage (bones, antlers and feathers) on the river sandbars and banks. Once we reached our food, we put our trash in the canister, packed the food in our bags and carried the can again so it would be stashed in line with our hike back to base camp. Carrying it was tough. The “easiest” way was to carry it like a running back carries a football. It wasn’t easy at all. We then turned south and hiked into Tupik Canyon only to find out it was actually Angayu Creek. We were off by one canyon mouth and it proved to be a blessing. About an hour in we found our way into some willows and had to fight through them to get into the canyon. Checking the map we found we thought we had been dropped off at Tupik Canyon. We assumed that to be the truth so we didn’t check the map until day 3-4. Once I checked our location on the map on my phone, I found we were actually in Angayu Canyon.
We were beat. We dropped from the mucky ground and thick willows to the open wash and found a camp spot. Had a warm dinner and got ready for bed. I walked a bit and found some tracks that looked a bit like wolverine. A few minutes later I looked up and saw two animals way up high in the mountain above the creek. First I thought they were wolves. They appeared to be playing. Looking closer with the binoculars, they were grizzlies. We got to watch them wander while eating berries and occasionally taking breaks to wrestle a bit. So lucky to have that experience. So lucky to be on this trip.
Day #5
7/20
11 Day Hiking Miles
0 Paddling Miles
What a day. Wow. Got up at 5:30 to HOT sun that an hour later went sideways and behind a ridge and it got COLD. I walked and listened (one ear) to "Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage," 3 chapters and lots of tracks in mud. JC woke at 9. Breakfast and coffee. Oh coffee. We packed and headed out on a day hike up the ridge behind the campsite. It ended up being 6 miles round trip. We were able to get up high enough (2200 feet up) to look into the Noatak valley and could see 8 miles each direction. We could see all the way to Lucky Six where we had been a couple days earlier and down river where we would be next. We were even able to see Base Camp under us and miles away. We saw lots of Caribou antlers today. On the way down from the ridge we walked into a draw that went from our valley to the next one to the west. In it there were odd mud holes with prints and tons of hair. At first we thought it might be muskox but the closer we looked, it appeared it was from the bears we had seen in the valley yesterday almost like they rolled around in order to shed. It was very odd and we were never totally sure of what we were seeing.
On the way back into the valley we saw the two bears on the other side of the valley and up high on a mountainside wall. Back at camp we reorganized and repacked and drank lots of water. We decided to walk up the drainage and again saw our two bear friends on ridge from atop and then again in drainage. We we walked deeper into the drainage and saw snow that was now ice left from winter in the middle of the drainage as one large sheet. We explored a neat side canyon and spent awhile peering up at a canyon wall at what looked like a natural dam into a bowl on a mountainside. On the way back we again watched the two grizzlies back on the original side of the canyon. It was interesting seeing them work their territory. The canyon seemed to be their territory and they appeared to work it daily in a clockwise fashion. Then, all of the sudden a black wolf jumped into the picture with the bears. The bears were extremely agitated and charged the wolf multiple times. The wolf didn’t need to expend much energy to keep a safe distance from the bears. It almost appeared that the wolf was so confident that the bears couldn’t get him that he was making a game of it. Just as suddenly, the wolf started running down the mountain and straight at us. The bears took off chasing the wolf. Over the seconds we had watched this all unfold, they had closed the gap with us and were only about 150 yards away. The last thing we wanted was two pissed off bears deciding they couldn’t catch this wolf but these 2 legeds sure would be easy to nab. We immediately started down river towards camp. JC was in front of me and started walking. Not sure what happened with my legs but I went to take a step and just fell over. My hat fell into the water and I was up again and walking in seconds. Later I would find out that JC saw none of this. As we started walking downstream the chase continued but thankfully upstream. An adrenaline rush for sure and a once in a lifetime experience to see a couple grizzly bears chase off a wolf from their territory. Amazing. Never saw the bears again in our little canyon. We were back at camp in no time. Hot dinner and crashed. A once in a lifetime kind of day. We would come to realize that everyday was a once in a lifetime kind of day.
Day #6
7/21
4.5 Backpack Miles- -and then
5.5 Paddle Miles
Woke up at 9:45. Hiked 4.5 miles out of Angayu Canyon this morning. We walked by beautiful narrow rock ledges lined with deep blue pools and filled with Arctic Grayling. Found some huge Moose antlers towards the end of the hike. Back at base camp we watched a bald eagle soar above us working the thermals for a bit. We reorganized. I bathed in the Noatak and did laundry as well. We ate, we packed, but, as before, we had to get our boat over to the sandbar island first. So, we tossed everything in the boat and lined the boat back to the sandbar where we got everything where we thought it needed to be on this first river day of many. Today was about trying to get our systems going. Paddling was kind of all over the place as we worked on maneuvering the boat as a team of two. As we worked, we saw a second bald eagle. The valley widened a bit and looking back we could see the top of Mt. Igikpak, where the Noatak River gets its start. We chose a gravel bar to camp on that was still in the sunshine. Dinner at 11:30. Bed at 12. Long day. Home at Base Camp.
Day #7
7/22
0 Backpack Miles
16 Paddle Miles
Up early. Coffee by the Noatak. Oh coffee. Today was our first full day on the river, lots of time to get the boat ready. The river was very slow today with a few small rapids. We had outstanding scenery over the 16 miles but unbelievably saw no animals at all. We played a game with some funny ducks that once they got within 50 yards of in our boat, they would fly away downstream to about the same distance. They did that 5-6 times allowing us to see them in action each time. Unlike the larger birds, they sure make flying look labored and difficult. Seeming to continuously flap their small wings as hard as possible just to stay a flight.
We got to see permafrost in action with a layer of ice just below the surface of the exposed river bank that was dripping and randomly plopping into the undercut eddies of the Noatak. Amazing sight and amazing sound. We could have just sat there and watched/listened for hours. Today, saw lots of laughing and talking and also times of silent thought.
We made camp at 9:30 at the Kugrak River confluence. We unpacked and set up camp, ate and chatted about our upcoming backpacking trip. And we talked about our lives. Good times. Tomorrow it’s off to the Kugrak Valley for two to three nights. We are planning on walking the river as deep as we can go and maybe exploring some side canyons.
Day #8
7/23
11.3 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles Miles
A wolf. That's how the day started outside our tent to this morning. JC unzipped the tent and said, “There’s a wolf in front of our tent.” The beautiful grey/reddish adult wolf was about 30 feet from our tent door. We were lucky enough to be able to snap a few pictures before it trotted away. JC got up to see it circle our tent area and I got out to see it moving away but being sure to stop every 15-20 feet to look back at us. Magical.
We also woke up to cloudy skies and rain. By the time we exited the tent it had stopped raining which gave us time to repack for our next backpacking trip up the Kugrak River. We decided to pack for two nights. On the way into the enormous canyon, an Arctic Tern saw us from afar and was not happy to have us as company. As we got close, it took off and made 4-5 passes at us coming within a few feet from our heads each time. It was amazing to get to see it so close. We saw bear, wolf, muskox, and caribou/moose tracks on the way in. Still not sure the difference between moose and caribou tracks yet. Found a huge moose rack and a muskox skull on the river bank. Plenty of carnage for a Thursday. The weather pounded us. The rain and wind were relentless. We hiked in our river gear and stayed 100% dry and warm (as long as we kept moving). Went deep into the canyon so that we could hopefully do a huge day hike tomorrow and then stay in this same spot for another night. We were very lucky the rain and wind let up for just enough time to set up our tent and camp. No cooking for us tonight. Just some dry food for dinner as the rain and wind started once again. Tonight is our earliest time to bed.
Night #1-2 am
Night #2- 12:45 am
Night #3- 11:45 pm
Night #4- 12:15 am
Night #5- 11:45 pm
Night #6- 9:45 pm
Day #9
7/24
14.5 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Big day in the Kugrak Valley today. We slept long and hard. 12 full hours. That’s a LOT for me for sure. Then got up and hiked a hard 8 and a half hours.
It rained on and off all night but by 9ish, when we got up, it was all done. We had cool, breezy and cloudy conditions most of the day. Towards the end, about 6:30 pm, the sun came out a few times. We had BIG views today in an enormous river valley. The glacial violence that creates this and all the Brooks Range valleys must have been spectacular. And the millions of years of rock tumbling that the Kugrak River has done has created a wash filled with hundreds of colors and thousands of patterns within the smooth rounded stones.
The birds were very curious about us today flying back and forth in front of us as we walked and at times hovering just a ways above our heads. The tops of the tallest peaks had a dusting of snow on them from last night. No sightings of any big animals today. Back to base camp tomorrow for a day/night of cleaning, organizing and lounging.
Day #10
7/25
11.3 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
No rain last night or while getting ready this morning. Up before JC and had coffee by the Kugrak. Ohhhhh coffee. Packed up dry gear (yea!) and on the trail by 9:45. We had constantly changing weather on the way back to camp. We had to continuously put on and take off layers as it would rain, the sun would come out, and then the wind would blow. Other times all three were going on simultaneously. Just before camp we saw a grizzly bear coming towards us at about 200 yards. We moved to the right as we were lined up to meet it face on. Even though we were directly up wind, the bear never got our scent. We continued past it.
Back at camp we each did our own chores. I swam and did laundry right away and then made a BIG meal followed by some beach time. Ended up in the tent as the wind started to blow. Another day that went perfectly.
Day #11
7/26
11.5 Paddle Miles
0 Hike Miles
Took a long time today getting camp packed up and the boat situated. Getting better at this each time. Set off about 11 am to cloudy skies and no rain. The first hour and a half was extremely calm with no wind whatsoever. We were able to direct the boat with small movements of our paddles and did a lot of site seeing. The next few hours were filled with on and off extremely strong winds where we had to dig hard to keep the boat on course. Jim did tell us that this boat was amazing, except in the wind. In the middle of a windy section we saw a grizzly on shore. It saw us and immediately disappeared into the brush. A ghost like all of the other animals just outside our vision while on and off the river.
Got to camp at about 3:30 and rushed to set up before the rain started. Got 'er done! Decided to break out our fishing poles and give the Noatak a try. We weren’t disappointed. We each caught numerous Arctic Grayling. JC caught a huge salmon and then we each caught another salmon just before calling it quits. We let them all go. This time. Feeling we would have plenty of river time later on, neither of us was in the mood to clean fish, and then clean the scent off of ourselves. Happy hour was followed with an amazing dinner, some map goings over, some talk, and some reading. Big day hike planned for tomorrow. New adventures and surprises await.
Day #12
7/27
8 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Our day started seeing a Caribou swimming from our side of the Noatak and across to the opposite shore. It ran, so effortlessly, upriver looking at us constantly and then made its way back into the Noatak swimming upstream for a ways before crossing back to our side. Swimming upstream must have been incredibly hard in the current of the angry rain filled Noatak.
Actually, the day stated drying out our gear, drying out our tent, and moving it a spot that would drain better. Last night’s rain got under our tent and we had quite a bit of water in the tent with us. We packed up and headed up the Nigitpalvgurururak River planning to go up river to a set of high elevation lakes. The canyon was very narrow and the small creek running through it was a torrent after the rains last night. We decided to walk the ridge till the canyon opened up. From above the Noatak Valley was enormous. Looking into the Nigitpalvgurururak Canyon, it was obvious that it was going to stay narrow for miles. We decided to hike the ridge and shoot for a peak instead. There were more blueberries on this day than any other. About a third of the way up, I spotted something white on the opposite canyon wall. Looking through my binoculars, I thought it was our first Dall's Sheep. But, it wasn’t a sheep at all. It was a white wolf. We watched it seeming to hunt ground squirrels for a bit. Our third wolf sighting of the trip. As we got started again, we spotted a game trail heading straight up the spine of the ridge. A perfect route for these two-legged. Our ridge hike took us higher and higher and about 200 yards from the top, I caught view of 7 white moving dots. Through the binoculars it was easy to discern our first Dall's Sheep of the trip. We decided to try to sneak up the adjacent peak to get a good look down at them and a chance for a good few pictures. As we moved higher we caught sight of one or two. Then all at once they were running up to the top of the ridge we were on and up ahead. Instead of being 7 in number, we guessed there were 30-40 in all. There were at least 2 babies and 2-3 rams. As they crested the ridge and dipped down a bit further, one lone ram stood watch as we returned its stare. It felt like we sat like that forever until finally the ram turned and slowly disappeared over a rise following the heard. He was the last lookout making sure the threat was over. We followed and topped out the peak and saw them in the distance. Amazing.
The peak sat at 4021 feet. Our camp was at 1721 feet. 2300 feet in just less than 8 miles. It was steep! We made it down in good time and saw very new bear scat, sheep carnage that was fairly new, some caribou antler, bone and jaw. Wonderful hike with almost no rain at all. Finished the day with some more fishing even though the rain had stared in earnest. Great dinner and then the real rain started. In the tent and seeing some seepage already. Hoping we don’t get too too wet.
Day #13
7/28
15.5 Paddle Miles - - and then
1 Day Hike Mile
What a night. It poured all night long. I got up early and saw that the “small creek” next to our camp had doubled in size. By the time we got up for good it had doubled yet again. When exiting the tent, the creek, 40 yards away, appeared to be higher than the ground we were standing on. The small drainage behind our tent had also come up significantly. Watching the creek take large hunks of the bank away into the Noatak was wild. We got a break in terms of being able to pack up while not in the rain. Well, we kinda made it happen by staying in bed till about 11.
On the river by 1:30 and had a very enjoyable first 45 minutes. The river was huge and powerful but so very quite. The water had risen between 5-6 feet during the night. Then the wind hit. We struggled for the next few hours to try to get the boat to go where we wanted it to go. No dice. The current and wind had their way with us today. Knowing what strong rain and winds can do to our surroundings, we wanted to camp in a really protected spot. We were aiming for one of the last large canyons, but when we beached the SOAR, there was nothing that would work. Two more times we tried spots further down the river. Neither worked. Finally, we found the spot where we are. Very protected, flat and soft. Set up camp and dried out all our gear in the wind before a terrific dinner and a short little hike to a ridge where we got a view of almost all of Lake Matcharak. Tough day on the river and terrific end to the day.
Day #14
7/29
20 Paddle Miles
0 Hike Miles
We were supposed to wake up at 6:30 but we both slept late. I woke up and checked my watch, it was 7:29, on 7/29. My birthday. My 21st birthday was in Alaska and my 52nd birthday is in Alaska. Looks like I’m starting some kind of trend.
What a day. No rain this morning but as we got out of the tent it started to sprinkle. No!!! But just that fast, it stopped. We wiped down the tent fly and started packing up. By 9:45 we hit the river. The Noatak was a bear today. Swollen and fast, the river and the wind, later accompanied by a cold rain that chilled us to the bone. About 25 minute into the paddle, our boat got sideways through a shallow fast area and it happened so fast it almost didn’t happen at all. Suddenly, I was out of the boat and the boat was pushing down on my legs. Just as fast as that happened, I jumped back in the boat and into my seat. It was a clear reminder that the wind and flow were in charge and we had to be constantly vigilant. We had been fighting the wind and slowly starting to shiver harder and harder when JC looked at his watch to see we had been in the boat without stopping for over 3 hours. Time to find a camp site.
We beached the SOAR and started looking but found nothing. Too ice cold to get back in the boat we each walked in circles, me doing jumping jacks as well, to try to warm our cores. In addition, our feet are always wet and cold. Even though we have amazing river gear and neoprene booties, nothing stops water and cold that you sit in for hours. After walking circles for 5-10 minutes, JC picked up a stone and skipped it across the Noatak. Looked like a good idea, so I did the same. This gravel bar had the best skipping stones either of us had ever seen (we didn’t talk about that for hours, we didn’t talk at all on that bar, talking would have used precious heat). After 50-60 throws each we felt much better... still ice cold, but renewed the way a 12 year old boy feels after skipping rocks at his favorite lake.
Back in the boat we were committed to finding a camp spot as good as the night before. One with some wind protection, and also on the soft muskeg of the Arctic instead of in mud which was everywhere else. On our third stop we found just that spot. No matter that there was a collection of small fox holes with a hole three times that big just behind our tent. No matter that there was a pile of grizzly crap near our bear canisters and boat. Little wind, few bugs, a gravel beach to fish from and wander on. The spot was perfect.
We did some unsuccessful fishing. Ate a hot dinner that tastes so good each night. And then the magic happened. The sun came out for the first time in 4 days. A swath of blue sky opened above us and just as we were about to lose the sun to clouds over and over again the blue swath extended and the sun stayed out. JC walked the gravel bar and I took off my wet shoes and socks and laid on the gravel bar in the shining birthday sun. A true birthday miracle. Amazing end to a very difficult day. Since we did so many more miles than we planned on today, we will do a big day hike tomorrow and stay in this spot for another night.
Day #15
7/30
13 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Woke up to no rain. Did some gravel bar walking and saw some, what looked like, fox prints maybe from the huge den behind our campsite. After breakfast and packing up we headed into the canyon about 2 miles from our campsite that followed Tunukuchiak Creek. Walking is hard in the Arctic 95% of the time. We either walk through gravel washes, up creeks or rivers, through ankle deep muck that is a combination of rain water and melting permafrost, or we are walking on tuft mounts that have no particular pattern and are surrounded by more muck. Ever play or see whack-a-mole? Walking on three tufts is like stepping on those moles. And crossing water, I would say we cross or ford creeks and or rivers 30-50 times a day. Some are just over the top of the shoe. Some are up to our thighs. Some are barely moving and some flow with such force that it’s everything we can do to stay upright. A few close calls but no one has gone in.
Walking the mesa, we dropped into the creek bed. The water was stunning. All we’ve seen for the last 3 days is angry silt filed water. This water was crystal clear and a deep aquamarine blue. We hiked in and out of rain, sun and mosquitoes needing to adjust our clothing each time the conditions changed.
Deeper into the canyon we saw two bald eagles and their nest atop a rock cliff overhanging the creek bed. Later we saw a Golden Eagle circling. Lots of carnage again today. Many caribou racks and notably the biggest one of the trip. We ended atop a hill overlooking an enormous lake. On the way out we came across what looked like a wolf that had been killed and eaten. Lots of fur and even one long piece of fur still attached to dry skin. Small bones and teeth were all that were left. As we continued we saw two more areas of the wolf that it must have been dragged to. Life is wild and violent in the Arctic for sure.
Day #16
7/31
Zero day
Hung out all day. Big breakfast. Snacked. Big dinner. In the morning hours we heard the yelps and cries of wolves. We gave chase to the sound walking up and over a nearby mesa. Even though we thought we heard exactly where the source of the sound was coming from, we saw nothing and heard no other sounds. At camp, we further explored what we thought was a fox den and an enormous hole bigger than the first we had found. We also found a ton of scattered carnage. It was then obvious. It wasn’t a fox den after all. We were camped just yards away from a major wolf den made up of at least a dozen network of holes. It was fascinating.
Later, we fished a bit with no success and enjoyed our nightly happy hour. We skipped some rocks with sore arms from our skipping a couple days earlier. And we chatted. Tomorrow, our goal is to paddle between 10-13 miles to the last backpacking option. Talked to Golden Eagle today (using the InReach for emergency texting and SOS capabilities) and we were told that the Cutler River confluence gravel bar is underwater from the heavy rains and we need to plan for a take out at Otter Bar, 67 miles sooner than we planned. Ironically, this works to our advantage in terms of giving us time for one last big backpacking trip. The paddling has served to get us from one amazing hiking opportunity to the next. This change of plans has been an unexpected gift.
Day #17
8/1
10 Paddle Miles and then
8 Backpack Miles
Woke up to SUN! First time we have woken up to sun in 9 days. It was glorious. And so was the coffee. We dried out gear and got ready for our paddle. We were aiming for Kavachurak Creek and Canyon to shoot to get one more big backpacking trip in. The paddle started wonderfully. It was a sightseer's dream. No wind. Sun. And just a paddle stroke here or there to fine tune the direction. For about 90 minutes we almost felt guilty for relaxing so much. Then everything changed. The river narrowed with tall cliff banks. The water started churning. There were huge boulders under the water creating whirlpools, eddies, and lateral waves. For the next hour we fought and struggled to keep the boat heading into the waves downstream. Never could we let our guard down. The entire trip has only really seen the Noatak at a Class 1. Today, we were in Class 2 for this hour and unbeknownst to us, would close out our paddle with a Class 3 rapid.
Seeing ahead in the water is tough and we aimed for the outer bank of the final rapid. As we approached it was very obvious that the water level at the head of the rapid was significantly higher than the level at the bottom of the rapid. We hit the rapid perfectly with the bow of our boat facing forward and dropping off the top. As we hit the bottom we both dug our paddles in deep to keep the boat straight. As we did a wave hit the front of the boat and sent a splash of water on, up, and over me in the front seat. Pulling out of the rapid we beached the SOAR and replayed what had just happened about a hundred times. We had hit it perfectly and moved through it just as we should have. We had come a very long way in our River skills in a very short time.
About a mile further, and still in very unsettled water we found the spot we were looking for. Pulling the boat the shore we jumped out, climbed the bank, and found a terrific spot to set up the tent. Not sure if it’s been mentioned, but each timed we finish a paddle for the day we need to hike our 300 pounds of gear far away from the water. The food goes about 50 yards from camp and the boat gets pulled out of the water and up on land before being turned upside down. It’s quite a process. We unpacked everything and then repacked all our backpacking things for our trip. We took food for three nights and while typing this I’m sure glad we did. This valley we are in is amazing. The hike in was stunning. Up and over a few hills. Down a side wash while hiking in and out of the water. Then, up to a bluff paralleling the Kavachurak creek down below. And finally, walking in the gravel wash. The gravel was perfect to walk on. Level and small comfortable stones. The water was crystal clear, fairly shallow and icy cold. The creek spread into multiple runs in the wash and we must have crossed it 30-40 times. The sun continued to shine and we had a light breeze to keep the bugs off. About 7 miles in we spotted an area we wanted to check out the following day so we are camped directly under it tonight. In the last mile a single Caribou was walking down the wash towards us. She saw us when we saw her and we got some glimpses as she changed direction. We dropped our packs and tried to follow her path towards the outside of the wash. She disappeared into some willows and by the time we saw her again she was heading up the hill on the opposite side of the canyon. She moved amazingly fast.
Terrific dinner and wonderful evening. This is the first day of no rain in 9 days. We shall see if it lasts.
Day #18
8/2
15 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
It lasted. It lightly drizzled for 10 minutes today. Glorious. We woke up and packed for a day hike. We were out by 10:55 but not before seeing a Caribou family of 3 wander down the valley in front of our tent but still at 100+ yards away. We were aiming for an unknown beautiful peak. We could see from our campsite that there was a bowl beneath its rocky spires and we were hoping to make it there. The hike up out of camp was extremely hard. Steep in angle, the ground was a mucky muddy bog of uneven mounds. It took hours to go the first 5 miles. Probably the hardest hiking we have done here to date. With binoculars, we did spot two caribou in the drainage a bit from where the group of three had been earlier.
After a good rest we started in on the second third of the hike. The second third of our hike was extremely eventful. The first animal we came in contact with was a large single caribou coming down a hill directly at us. In all, we spent an easy hour with this fella. He was not happy with us for being in his valley. And he didn’t like the sound of the shutter on the camera taking pictures of him. He made quite a show of telling us he wasn’t happy including coming about 30 yards from us in a very aggressive manner. It was the first and only time both JC and I had our bear spray out and the trigger lock taken out. He then made his way off about 75 yards from us and stood like a statue most of the time staring at us. Just like we were staring at him. He looked up the valley once, just as we did, as a small unseen rockfall came off the peak we were aiming for. This staring contest went on and on until we finally decided to move on.
About 15 minutes later we saw a calf and mother up on the ridge looking confused and wanting to get down to dad. They then disappeared and reappeared much further down the ridge. Just as suddenly, they reappeared in the first place they were. We stayed perfectly still hoping they would pass us. They finally slowly and carefully came past us only to circle below us and start back up. The male stood perfectly still down from us the entire time. It amazed us that he didn’t call for them. The mom and baby did some confused circles and some hip jumps before finally finding their way back to dad and then down the valley. The male walked a few feet to the ridge, turned around and stared once more at us for a bit before slowly turning and following his family out of sight.
Not long after, another caribou came at us but not in an aggressive way. And then, a bit later we caught a glimpse of a Dall's sheep. We walked up to the ledge where we had last seen it and it was gone. Completely gone. We looked up and down the valley. It had vanished. The vanishing sheep. As we approached the bowl under the peak we came upon two more separate Caribou coming out of the bowl we were approaching. The bowl was just as epic as we had imagined. We stood and sat there for about 30 minutes drying out our sweaty bodies and having snacks and water. The definition of the peak being this close to it was stunning. Sections of ice still clung to rock and we could see where all the most recent rockfall had taken place. We saw some Dall's Sheep checking us out from an adjacent ridge and our disappearing sheep showed back up as well. It took 2200 feet in elevation to get here and it was well worth it. We had an amazing hike down that took less than half the time that way up took on nearly perfect terrain for these parts.
It’s still unreal that I’m here. All the planning and dreaming about this trip and I’m here. In the middle of it. Deeply experiencing it every day. The days are so long and I have trouble getting into my tent at night or staying in when I wake. Everywhere you look is a visual feast. There’s no way to take it all in but I do my very best each and every day to do just that. The hunger to see as much as I can in the short time I’m here just never fades. Closing my eyes to sleep, when it’s always light, feels like a waste of precious time and opportunity. But rest I must so that I can put on the big miles yet again.
We left on this hike at 11 am. We arrived back at camp at 9:30 pm, had dinner. Some self care. 11:00 pm now as I write in full daylight. Epic day.
Day #19
8/3
10 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Another amazing day. And another 2200 feet in elevation gain. Up at about 5 am to find a tree and everything in the valley was covered in ice. Woke up for good at 9 and all the ice was gone. Coffee (the only thing to get our motors going) and packing was done and we headed out for a similar high country route to yesterday. This one on the west side of the drainage. Aiming to make a loop, we crossed the enormous drainage just to the north and headed up. The ground was kind and we made good time in the icy cold wind. Today felt more like autumn in the Arctic than summer. Even the colors seemed to be changing to more oranges and reds. About an hour in, we saw a female Caribou acting strangely. Most don’t come near us and effortlessly move away quickly. This one stayed on the ledge just below us for a long time. She was just wandering around and smelling the ground a lot. Like she was lost. We continued up a few rises and then down others. There was a valley and pass we could see from camp that we were trying to ultimately get to. About another hour in we saw another caribou over a ridge. We split up to take different routes up the last fin ridge into our valley. As I crested, on the other side below was that same caribou feeding. I crouched down and just watched. Even snapping a few pictures didn’t get his attention. It was fun to be able to watch one of these large graceful animals without it knowing I was there. Once JC got to my part of the ridge we headed into the final valley towards the pass. Immediately, we started seeing more Caribou. In all today, we spotted 27 different caribou. It was magical. As we headed up the valley approaching the pass and multiple caribou were grazing ahead of us. They moved on as we got closer and then more animals appeared from over the pass. Two females with two calves, one the color we are use to seeing, and one that was almost gray. Two more appeared on the cliff to our left standing on a snow patch. They went over the pass while the moms and kids went behind us. When we crested the amazing pass, we had a 50 mile northwest view to the right and two spiked peaks just to the left. Straight down below, there were three more large males. Then, two more on the cliff to the right. They were everywhere.
We came out of the wind to the eastern side of the pass and sat for a snack and to chat about everything that had gone on. While watching animals we are silent and respectful, only later, on a break, do we relive the story together. It’s fun and fascinating to hear the story from the other person’s experience. We always both hear things we missed or interpreted differently. While talking and taking the break, the female from 3 hours earlier and 3 miles back came wandering to the foot of the pass doing the same thing...wandering and smelling the ground. She wasn’t lost she was looking for something. She. Mom. We just saw babies. She’s looking for her baby. And had been for a long time. Could have been way before we saw her in the first place. We watched her desperately search. Looking at us constantly as if to either ask, “Have you seen my child?” Or to say, “What have YOU done with my child?!” After about 20 minutes we got geared back up and started down. About 20 steps later we heard a cry. From our right, on a cliff face, came a tiny baby caribou. She stopped, and looked at us confused, and then hurried down to mom. The two trotted off together. Magical. JC said he felt like we just saw a Disney movie. The true definition of a happy ending.
We started down and saw a large male standing in the same exact spot as he was before we started up the ridge. He was in the exact direction we were going so we slowly approached. He took a few steps through the bolder field he was in and it was obvious. He was injured and in lots of pain. He stayed ahead of us for quite some time and it was sad to watch. The juxtaposition to the joy we had just witnessed. Nature. In all it’s glory. We made our way past him to the last high altitude cliff of our trip which faced a rocky bowl.
Walking in game trails that have been formed by caribou migrations that have gone on for thousands of years is unreal. Sometimes, while walking I will choose a path that looks like a combination of the easiest terrain and the best view. More times than not, I’ll find myself on a game trail and realize that I’m not only following in the footsteps of so many 4 leggeds but that I’m also thinking like one of them as I choose my path. Every day I feel more connected to nature and this place. Every day is a gift.
After peering in and walking the ridge down, we were back in the drains and on our way to camp. Hot dinner. Sitting by the creek to write in my journal during a late happy hour. A fine end to a fine day.
Day #20
8/4
8 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
It was cold last night. Colder than the night before. The coldest night yet. There was thicker ice on everything and even some ice on the creek. Autumn is coming and life here has very little time left to do its thing.
After drying things out and coffee....oh coffee...we headed out at about 11 to partly cloudy skies. We were hiking back to a base camp that was already set up and both completely out of food except for some small snacks to get us 8 miles. We could smell the barn as JC said. I could smell the hay. The walk back was a mixture of sun, rain, and icy wind. We must have stopped to add and drop layers 5 times. Back at camp it was barely drizzling with a partial rainbow in the sky. We went straight to our bear cans and ate till we could eat no more. Then the harder rain started and we escaped to the tent. We napped, read, and journaled for a few hours all as the weather kept changing. It would be raining with the sun out and the tent would bake. The sun would go behind clouds and the rain would stop and we would have to put on layers we had just taken off. Alaska weather. Crazy.
Day #21
8/5
12 Paddle Miles
Otter Bar. That’s where we are. How in hell did we already get to the end of this trip. We were just saying to each-other, “Day three....can you believe we have 3 weeks here?” Where did it go? No two days were the same much less anything at all similar. Every day was a new adventure. New weather (5-10 times a day), new terrain to walk on (all trail-less), new geology, new flowers, new carnage, new birds, bears, wolves, sheep, caribou, and muskox. New challenges. New flowers. New moss and lichens. New mushrooms. New snow and ice. New icy layers of permafrost. New ideas. New game trails. New river and creek crossings (literally hundreds). New plans ( they changed daily and most times multiple times daily.) And new experiences of awe. We don’t feel a sense of awe enough in our daily lives. We need nature to help provide that. Awe invigorates us. Awe reminds us what a small part of this universe we really are. Awe redefines time. Awe provides as many questions as it does answers. And they aren’t questions to be Googled. They are questions to simply ponder. On this trip, awe was everywhere and always. If my eyes were open, the millions of pictures that I observed all created a sense of awe and each in a different way.
Today was our final day on the Noatak. Tomorrow our bush pilot, Jason, picks us up on the tiny gravel runway our tent is 30 feet from.
Today. Like everyday. Was amazing.
I woke to an icy cold sunshine filled morning. After making some coffee for myself I sat back in one of our camp chairs facing the sun. About 10 minuets later I heard the same wild yips and howls we heard a couple nights ago upriver. I put some shoes on, grabbed my bear spray, binoculars, and camera, and walked up the small hill next to camp in the direction I heard the sounds from. I looked and looked, but never saw them and they never called out again.
Boat packed and in the water (for the last time) at 11:15. Rapids met us immediately. Most of the 12 miles had medium sized Class 2 rapids. Today we were ready and hit all of them perfectly. The sun was out sometimes and when it wasn't it was cold. About 2 hours into paddling we saw a beautiful Golden Eagle. It was startled off a beach as we came around a bend. It landed in a snag on the next gravel bar and stayed until we were right next to it. It took off again and flew to a cliff face down river. One that we had to paddle by. Once again it stayed till the last moment and then flew back upriver saying goodbye to us as it went. About 30 minutes later JC and I both spotted something big and brown in an upcoming gravel bar. Using the binoculars it was easy to see. Our first muskox. It was gargantuan. It truly was like something out of prehistoric times. It’s hair and horns made it look like something the Vikings would have tried to domesticate. It seemed to just be playing in the river and as we passed it moved to the gravel bar quickly and then started to run up the side of the adjacent hill. With its incredible size and such short legs, it was incredible how effortless and fluid its movement was. We were so very lucky to get to see this on our last day. A muskox was the thing I wanted to see most on this trip by far.
We paddled another mile and a half to the coordinates we were given to Otter Bar and the landing strip. We found it without much trouble and then set up our tent as the sky was changing from blue to charcoal gray. After the tent we did our separate things for a while, me some organization and some fishing. No luck on fish today. I then decided a swim would be great so I went and got a clean-ish set of clothes to put on after and then hopped in the cold Noatak water as JC fished. When I got out and was drying off I saw something big and brown in a gravel bar up river and across to the other side. It was pretty obvious it was another muskox. JC saw it at the same time and we hurried for cameras and binoculars. We started in the direction wanting to stay out of view behind some willows. The closer we got the further the muskox had made it in our direction after coming across the river. In the end we ended up in the same drainage as Mr. Muskox and had very closeup views of him. He, unlike almost all the other animals that actually saw us, didn’t run, didn’t aggressively posture, he just went on grazing, pausing once in a while look at us. There was no agitation or fear at all. We got to spend quite a bit of time enjoying his presence. It was ....magical.
Coming back to camp we were blown away. We took the long route up a small hill in front of our tent just on the other side of the landing strip and found another wolf den. We are camped about 50 yards from it. This one was much larger with a lot more carnage and a lot more wolf droppings. Saw no wolves tonight. Maybe tomorrow.
Happy hour in the river and dinner with a fire. We haven’t had a fire in the entire trip but have talked about one the last few nights. Next to the landing strip was a fire ring and fire wood. It was perfect. JC had some tortillas and we each had some rice and beans. I even had some string cheese and Alpine freeze dried guacamole. JC browned the tortillas on the fire and we feasted on mini burritos. It was the best dinner of the trip.
Sitting by the fire and out at happy hour we talked a lot about how amazing the trip had been and how lucky and grateful we both are. To our families for supporting us 100%, for Jim and the boat (and Jim & Tip's Arctic wisdom), Zanetti’s gear, Brian’s cooking tips, Aaron for the dry bags, Andy Jenks for the personalized maps and InReach, Jason Fitzpatrick for his camera equipment, Jared the owner of Golden Eagle, Joe for his hospitality in Kotzebue, Ranger Deanna for all her help, Isabela for her hard work putting all of our pictures and video together, and the opportunity to be here. To do this. We are lucky people. We also talked about how lucky we were to have done this together. How much it just worked. How things fell into place. How we gave each other space. Helped each other out. Balanced one another. We were a good team. A team that just might need to have another epic adventure in the future.
But the question...where...
Animal Totals:
1 salmon swimming
2 Golden Eagles
2 Muskox
3 Wolves
4 Bald Eagles
5 Grizzly Bears
30-40 Dahl Sheep
39 Caribou
Countless:
Lemmings, Arctic Terns, Arctic Squirrels, Ptarmigans, Arctic Grayling
Caught Fishing:
Multiple Arctic Grayling
1 Alaskan Salmon
Mile Totals:
133 Hiking Miles
95 Paddle Miles
7/16
The Arctic. Didn’t know if this trip would actually happen with COVID. But we are finally on our way. The airport in Sac was a ghost town. We were the only two people at the Alaska Airlines ticket counter getting checked in. It was eerie. Six bags checked through to Kotzebue, AK and a backpack over the shoulders. TSA was a breeze as well and we got a beer at one of the airport bars. All of this with masks on. The new reality. How amazing it will be to not wear one for 3 weeks.
Easy flight (minus masks) to Seattle and then a 1/2 mile walk to the Clarion hotel. Checked in at about 7 pm. Our plane tomorrow is in another 11 hours.
Went without food and bought 6 Heineken at the hotel “bar” for $45. Yup. You read the number correctly. To the room to chat and drink 3 a piece. Last night in a bed for a while.
Day #2
7/17
1 Easy Day Hike Mile
0 Paddle Miles
Up at 3:30 am and onto a Shuttle to airport with a woman with a dog and cat. JC is not a dog guy and I’m not a cat guy. She asked what airlines we were on and when she found out we were on the same flight she asked if we could help get her unloaded and to the ticket counter. Little did we know, after saying yes, of course, that she had hundreds of pounds of dog/cat carrying equipment and other things. We helped her unload and get into the airport grateful that neither one of us hurt ourselves with the weight. That would have been quite the story indeed.
Airport was quiet and we had our own TSA agents in a special “large bag” line even though all we both had were our 1/2 packed backpacks. Next was a 3.5 hour flight to Anchorage and those terrible masks for an extended time. When we landed there was lots of confusion over COVID. We were landing and leaving again from the same gate but wanted coffee so we started heading down the terminal. About 50 yards later a woman in a blue vest asked if we were coming from AK or Seattle. We told her Seattle and she asked if we had filled out all our COVID papers on line. We told her that we had filed out the paper versions that the AK Health Department website information explained. She said things had changed and we would have to stand in another line and fill it out on our phones. Both of us had had COVID tests within 72 hours of take off as instructed but Kaiser had not come back with results. This meant we would have to have another test in Anchorage, but we were still flying to Kotzebue and decided to try our luck there instead. We got out of line and walked right past the same woman towards our terminal as she was asking others the same set of questions.
Next was a 1.5 hour flight to Kotzebue with masks. There we were asked to fill out yet another short paper with COVID questions. We told the woman we had tested but hadn’t gotten results back and she pointed to another building where we needed to go to get tested. She looked at our papers and seeing that we weren’t visiting any villages didn’t seem intent on us testing. So, we didn’t walk to the building. We didn’t get tested. We were officially done with COVID for the next three weeks. No one, including our bush pilot, was wearing a mask or seemed concerned about COVID. Later our pilot, Jared, said no one in Kotzebue had gotten COVID as of yet. We got a ride from a daughter of one of the Golden Eagle Pilots and she took us to get our 12 bear cans at the temporarily shut down National Park Service Heritage Center. A ranger had left them outside for us to grab.
We changed our clothes at the hanger and did a bit of final organizing while waiting for Jared to return from another flight to be able to take us in. Once he landed we got our stove fuel and bear spray and he packed the plane. With our gear, there was just enough room for the three of us. JC was in front and I was behind the pilot. The flight took an hour and a half and the scenery was amazing. Jared taught us so much about AK, wildlife and back-country options.
We landed at Tupik Creek (we thought based on what Jared told us) instead of Lucky Six Creek because the gravel bar used as a landing strip had washed out. Gravel bars form and disappear many times each season based on the flow of the Noatak and the size of storms and water flowing in from tributaries. (We would learn this first hand a bit later in our adventure). Dropping into the final decent we were surprised to see a family of 4 on the gravel bar getting ready to push their boats off. After landing and getting all our gear out of the plane we talked to them a bit. Parents and a 10 year old daughter and 8 year old son. Mom was a pilot for Alaska Airlines and they lived in Anchorage. After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes and they floated off. The last humans we would see for 3 weeks.
We spent a long time filling our 12 bear cans and labeling each with blue painters tape and a Sharpie. I really didn’t want to guess what was in which of my 6 cans each time I wanted something since the cans look identical. Got reorganized and blew up boat. We filled the boat with all of our gear and it was extremely heavy. The boat is build to hold 900 lbs. our gear alone (without our weight) was about 300 lbs. The gravel bar was an island so we then lined the boat (one of us at each end of the boat with a rope that’s attached to the boat) upstream and crossed to the shore. There, we unloaded the boat and set up our first of many base camps. We spent a long time organizing more. We ate. And then we took a long walk inland on the small valley around our area. We saw a beautiful banded raptor who looked to be hunting just above the ground and lots of “carnage," bones and antlers. We headed back to camp and watched the sunset. We laid down for bed and looked at our watches for the first time since our plane landed at 4:00 pm. It was 1:30 am. We’d been up for 22 hours. How time flies when the sun doesn’t set.
Day #3
7/18
11 HARD Backpack/Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Slept till 8:30 today. Ate a good breakfast of oatmeal and coffee. Oh coffee. Set out by 12 and hiked 5 very hard miles up the Noatak valley. About 80 % of the hike was in the water while about 20% was on the banks and gravel bars. The current was very strong in the narrowest parts of the river. At about 5 pm we saw our first grizzly of the trip. It was up low on a mountainside paralleling the Noatak. A good far away first sighting. The bear never saw or smelled us so we were able to watch it very safely from afar. At about 6 we were beat and found a high gravel bar to camp on for the night. We set up camp and repacked, taking dinner and cooking equipment with us, to do more miles upriver but without our heavy packs. We had heard there might be a wolf den at Lucky Six (our original drop off spot) and were excited to try to find it as well as get as far up towards the headwaters of the Noatak as possible. Beautiful hike in and out of the water. By the time we hit our pillows today we would have crossed the Noatak more than 50 times. A bit of rain on the way back to camp. An 11 mile day, hard miles. Came upon many caribou antlers and even two musk ox horns. We also saw a snow shoe rabbit foot. Yup the foot and some bone. The foot looked totally normal and was still covered in sparking while fir.
JC went to bed and I stayed up taking pictures and writing in my journal as the sun just started to set a little while after midnight. Amazing day in the Noatak.
Day #4
7/19
6 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
I woke early to take pictures and wander around and JC slept in. We packed up and left camp about 10:40. We walked the 5 miles back to our food cache (on the way out of base camp yesterday we had left a bear canister at the head of the canyon we were headed to today. This would save us from carrying 3 days of food up the Noatak drainage and save us 2 miles-one to camp to get it and one back). On the way to the food we saw our second grizzly bear. It was higher up the opposite bank. Unlike the other bear that never noticed us from across the river, this one a few minutes in turned it’s head directly towards us and smelled the air. And ran. He went over a rise and we never saw him again. It was unbelievable that he could smell us from a quarter mile away and fascinating to watch it happen.
All through the drainage we found tons of carnage (bones, antlers and feathers) on the river sandbars and banks. Once we reached our food, we put our trash in the canister, packed the food in our bags and carried the can again so it would be stashed in line with our hike back to base camp. Carrying it was tough. The “easiest” way was to carry it like a running back carries a football. It wasn’t easy at all. We then turned south and hiked into Tupik Canyon only to find out it was actually Angayu Creek. We were off by one canyon mouth and it proved to be a blessing. About an hour in we found our way into some willows and had to fight through them to get into the canyon. Checking the map we found we thought we had been dropped off at Tupik Canyon. We assumed that to be the truth so we didn’t check the map until day 3-4. Once I checked our location on the map on my phone, I found we were actually in Angayu Canyon.
We were beat. We dropped from the mucky ground and thick willows to the open wash and found a camp spot. Had a warm dinner and got ready for bed. I walked a bit and found some tracks that looked a bit like wolverine. A few minutes later I looked up and saw two animals way up high in the mountain above the creek. First I thought they were wolves. They appeared to be playing. Looking closer with the binoculars, they were grizzlies. We got to watch them wander while eating berries and occasionally taking breaks to wrestle a bit. So lucky to have that experience. So lucky to be on this trip.
Day #5
7/20
11 Day Hiking Miles
0 Paddling Miles
What a day. Wow. Got up at 5:30 to HOT sun that an hour later went sideways and behind a ridge and it got COLD. I walked and listened (one ear) to "Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage," 3 chapters and lots of tracks in mud. JC woke at 9. Breakfast and coffee. Oh coffee. We packed and headed out on a day hike up the ridge behind the campsite. It ended up being 6 miles round trip. We were able to get up high enough (2200 feet up) to look into the Noatak valley and could see 8 miles each direction. We could see all the way to Lucky Six where we had been a couple days earlier and down river where we would be next. We were even able to see Base Camp under us and miles away. We saw lots of Caribou antlers today. On the way down from the ridge we walked into a draw that went from our valley to the next one to the west. In it there were odd mud holes with prints and tons of hair. At first we thought it might be muskox but the closer we looked, it appeared it was from the bears we had seen in the valley yesterday almost like they rolled around in order to shed. It was very odd and we were never totally sure of what we were seeing.
On the way back into the valley we saw the two bears on the other side of the valley and up high on a mountainside wall. Back at camp we reorganized and repacked and drank lots of water. We decided to walk up the drainage and again saw our two bear friends on ridge from atop and then again in drainage. We we walked deeper into the drainage and saw snow that was now ice left from winter in the middle of the drainage as one large sheet. We explored a neat side canyon and spent awhile peering up at a canyon wall at what looked like a natural dam into a bowl on a mountainside. On the way back we again watched the two grizzlies back on the original side of the canyon. It was interesting seeing them work their territory. The canyon seemed to be their territory and they appeared to work it daily in a clockwise fashion. Then, all of the sudden a black wolf jumped into the picture with the bears. The bears were extremely agitated and charged the wolf multiple times. The wolf didn’t need to expend much energy to keep a safe distance from the bears. It almost appeared that the wolf was so confident that the bears couldn’t get him that he was making a game of it. Just as suddenly, the wolf started running down the mountain and straight at us. The bears took off chasing the wolf. Over the seconds we had watched this all unfold, they had closed the gap with us and were only about 150 yards away. The last thing we wanted was two pissed off bears deciding they couldn’t catch this wolf but these 2 legeds sure would be easy to nab. We immediately started down river towards camp. JC was in front of me and started walking. Not sure what happened with my legs but I went to take a step and just fell over. My hat fell into the water and I was up again and walking in seconds. Later I would find out that JC saw none of this. As we started walking downstream the chase continued but thankfully upstream. An adrenaline rush for sure and a once in a lifetime experience to see a couple grizzly bears chase off a wolf from their territory. Amazing. Never saw the bears again in our little canyon. We were back at camp in no time. Hot dinner and crashed. A once in a lifetime kind of day. We would come to realize that everyday was a once in a lifetime kind of day.
Day #6
7/21
4.5 Backpack Miles- -and then
5.5 Paddle Miles
Woke up at 9:45. Hiked 4.5 miles out of Angayu Canyon this morning. We walked by beautiful narrow rock ledges lined with deep blue pools and filled with Arctic Grayling. Found some huge Moose antlers towards the end of the hike. Back at base camp we watched a bald eagle soar above us working the thermals for a bit. We reorganized. I bathed in the Noatak and did laundry as well. We ate, we packed, but, as before, we had to get our boat over to the sandbar island first. So, we tossed everything in the boat and lined the boat back to the sandbar where we got everything where we thought it needed to be on this first river day of many. Today was about trying to get our systems going. Paddling was kind of all over the place as we worked on maneuvering the boat as a team of two. As we worked, we saw a second bald eagle. The valley widened a bit and looking back we could see the top of Mt. Igikpak, where the Noatak River gets its start. We chose a gravel bar to camp on that was still in the sunshine. Dinner at 11:30. Bed at 12. Long day. Home at Base Camp.
Day #7
7/22
0 Backpack Miles
16 Paddle Miles
Up early. Coffee by the Noatak. Oh coffee. Today was our first full day on the river, lots of time to get the boat ready. The river was very slow today with a few small rapids. We had outstanding scenery over the 16 miles but unbelievably saw no animals at all. We played a game with some funny ducks that once they got within 50 yards of in our boat, they would fly away downstream to about the same distance. They did that 5-6 times allowing us to see them in action each time. Unlike the larger birds, they sure make flying look labored and difficult. Seeming to continuously flap their small wings as hard as possible just to stay a flight.
We got to see permafrost in action with a layer of ice just below the surface of the exposed river bank that was dripping and randomly plopping into the undercut eddies of the Noatak. Amazing sight and amazing sound. We could have just sat there and watched/listened for hours. Today, saw lots of laughing and talking and also times of silent thought.
We made camp at 9:30 at the Kugrak River confluence. We unpacked and set up camp, ate and chatted about our upcoming backpacking trip. And we talked about our lives. Good times. Tomorrow it’s off to the Kugrak Valley for two to three nights. We are planning on walking the river as deep as we can go and maybe exploring some side canyons.
Day #8
7/23
11.3 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles Miles
A wolf. That's how the day started outside our tent to this morning. JC unzipped the tent and said, “There’s a wolf in front of our tent.” The beautiful grey/reddish adult wolf was about 30 feet from our tent door. We were lucky enough to be able to snap a few pictures before it trotted away. JC got up to see it circle our tent area and I got out to see it moving away but being sure to stop every 15-20 feet to look back at us. Magical.
We also woke up to cloudy skies and rain. By the time we exited the tent it had stopped raining which gave us time to repack for our next backpacking trip up the Kugrak River. We decided to pack for two nights. On the way into the enormous canyon, an Arctic Tern saw us from afar and was not happy to have us as company. As we got close, it took off and made 4-5 passes at us coming within a few feet from our heads each time. It was amazing to get to see it so close. We saw bear, wolf, muskox, and caribou/moose tracks on the way in. Still not sure the difference between moose and caribou tracks yet. Found a huge moose rack and a muskox skull on the river bank. Plenty of carnage for a Thursday. The weather pounded us. The rain and wind were relentless. We hiked in our river gear and stayed 100% dry and warm (as long as we kept moving). Went deep into the canyon so that we could hopefully do a huge day hike tomorrow and then stay in this same spot for another night. We were very lucky the rain and wind let up for just enough time to set up our tent and camp. No cooking for us tonight. Just some dry food for dinner as the rain and wind started once again. Tonight is our earliest time to bed.
Night #1-2 am
Night #2- 12:45 am
Night #3- 11:45 pm
Night #4- 12:15 am
Night #5- 11:45 pm
Night #6- 9:45 pm
Day #9
7/24
14.5 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Big day in the Kugrak Valley today. We slept long and hard. 12 full hours. That’s a LOT for me for sure. Then got up and hiked a hard 8 and a half hours.
It rained on and off all night but by 9ish, when we got up, it was all done. We had cool, breezy and cloudy conditions most of the day. Towards the end, about 6:30 pm, the sun came out a few times. We had BIG views today in an enormous river valley. The glacial violence that creates this and all the Brooks Range valleys must have been spectacular. And the millions of years of rock tumbling that the Kugrak River has done has created a wash filled with hundreds of colors and thousands of patterns within the smooth rounded stones.
The birds were very curious about us today flying back and forth in front of us as we walked and at times hovering just a ways above our heads. The tops of the tallest peaks had a dusting of snow on them from last night. No sightings of any big animals today. Back to base camp tomorrow for a day/night of cleaning, organizing and lounging.
Day #10
7/25
11.3 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
No rain last night or while getting ready this morning. Up before JC and had coffee by the Kugrak. Ohhhhh coffee. Packed up dry gear (yea!) and on the trail by 9:45. We had constantly changing weather on the way back to camp. We had to continuously put on and take off layers as it would rain, the sun would come out, and then the wind would blow. Other times all three were going on simultaneously. Just before camp we saw a grizzly bear coming towards us at about 200 yards. We moved to the right as we were lined up to meet it face on. Even though we were directly up wind, the bear never got our scent. We continued past it.
Back at camp we each did our own chores. I swam and did laundry right away and then made a BIG meal followed by some beach time. Ended up in the tent as the wind started to blow. Another day that went perfectly.
Day #11
7/26
11.5 Paddle Miles
0 Hike Miles
Took a long time today getting camp packed up and the boat situated. Getting better at this each time. Set off about 11 am to cloudy skies and no rain. The first hour and a half was extremely calm with no wind whatsoever. We were able to direct the boat with small movements of our paddles and did a lot of site seeing. The next few hours were filled with on and off extremely strong winds where we had to dig hard to keep the boat on course. Jim did tell us that this boat was amazing, except in the wind. In the middle of a windy section we saw a grizzly on shore. It saw us and immediately disappeared into the brush. A ghost like all of the other animals just outside our vision while on and off the river.
Got to camp at about 3:30 and rushed to set up before the rain started. Got 'er done! Decided to break out our fishing poles and give the Noatak a try. We weren’t disappointed. We each caught numerous Arctic Grayling. JC caught a huge salmon and then we each caught another salmon just before calling it quits. We let them all go. This time. Feeling we would have plenty of river time later on, neither of us was in the mood to clean fish, and then clean the scent off of ourselves. Happy hour was followed with an amazing dinner, some map goings over, some talk, and some reading. Big day hike planned for tomorrow. New adventures and surprises await.
Day #12
7/27
8 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Our day started seeing a Caribou swimming from our side of the Noatak and across to the opposite shore. It ran, so effortlessly, upriver looking at us constantly and then made its way back into the Noatak swimming upstream for a ways before crossing back to our side. Swimming upstream must have been incredibly hard in the current of the angry rain filled Noatak.
Actually, the day stated drying out our gear, drying out our tent, and moving it a spot that would drain better. Last night’s rain got under our tent and we had quite a bit of water in the tent with us. We packed up and headed up the Nigitpalvgurururak River planning to go up river to a set of high elevation lakes. The canyon was very narrow and the small creek running through it was a torrent after the rains last night. We decided to walk the ridge till the canyon opened up. From above the Noatak Valley was enormous. Looking into the Nigitpalvgurururak Canyon, it was obvious that it was going to stay narrow for miles. We decided to hike the ridge and shoot for a peak instead. There were more blueberries on this day than any other. About a third of the way up, I spotted something white on the opposite canyon wall. Looking through my binoculars, I thought it was our first Dall's Sheep. But, it wasn’t a sheep at all. It was a white wolf. We watched it seeming to hunt ground squirrels for a bit. Our third wolf sighting of the trip. As we got started again, we spotted a game trail heading straight up the spine of the ridge. A perfect route for these two-legged. Our ridge hike took us higher and higher and about 200 yards from the top, I caught view of 7 white moving dots. Through the binoculars it was easy to discern our first Dall's Sheep of the trip. We decided to try to sneak up the adjacent peak to get a good look down at them and a chance for a good few pictures. As we moved higher we caught sight of one or two. Then all at once they were running up to the top of the ridge we were on and up ahead. Instead of being 7 in number, we guessed there were 30-40 in all. There were at least 2 babies and 2-3 rams. As they crested the ridge and dipped down a bit further, one lone ram stood watch as we returned its stare. It felt like we sat like that forever until finally the ram turned and slowly disappeared over a rise following the heard. He was the last lookout making sure the threat was over. We followed and topped out the peak and saw them in the distance. Amazing.
The peak sat at 4021 feet. Our camp was at 1721 feet. 2300 feet in just less than 8 miles. It was steep! We made it down in good time and saw very new bear scat, sheep carnage that was fairly new, some caribou antler, bone and jaw. Wonderful hike with almost no rain at all. Finished the day with some more fishing even though the rain had stared in earnest. Great dinner and then the real rain started. In the tent and seeing some seepage already. Hoping we don’t get too too wet.
Day #13
7/28
15.5 Paddle Miles - - and then
1 Day Hike Mile
What a night. It poured all night long. I got up early and saw that the “small creek” next to our camp had doubled in size. By the time we got up for good it had doubled yet again. When exiting the tent, the creek, 40 yards away, appeared to be higher than the ground we were standing on. The small drainage behind our tent had also come up significantly. Watching the creek take large hunks of the bank away into the Noatak was wild. We got a break in terms of being able to pack up while not in the rain. Well, we kinda made it happen by staying in bed till about 11.
On the river by 1:30 and had a very enjoyable first 45 minutes. The river was huge and powerful but so very quite. The water had risen between 5-6 feet during the night. Then the wind hit. We struggled for the next few hours to try to get the boat to go where we wanted it to go. No dice. The current and wind had their way with us today. Knowing what strong rain and winds can do to our surroundings, we wanted to camp in a really protected spot. We were aiming for one of the last large canyons, but when we beached the SOAR, there was nothing that would work. Two more times we tried spots further down the river. Neither worked. Finally, we found the spot where we are. Very protected, flat and soft. Set up camp and dried out all our gear in the wind before a terrific dinner and a short little hike to a ridge where we got a view of almost all of Lake Matcharak. Tough day on the river and terrific end to the day.
Day #14
7/29
20 Paddle Miles
0 Hike Miles
We were supposed to wake up at 6:30 but we both slept late. I woke up and checked my watch, it was 7:29, on 7/29. My birthday. My 21st birthday was in Alaska and my 52nd birthday is in Alaska. Looks like I’m starting some kind of trend.
What a day. No rain this morning but as we got out of the tent it started to sprinkle. No!!! But just that fast, it stopped. We wiped down the tent fly and started packing up. By 9:45 we hit the river. The Noatak was a bear today. Swollen and fast, the river and the wind, later accompanied by a cold rain that chilled us to the bone. About 25 minute into the paddle, our boat got sideways through a shallow fast area and it happened so fast it almost didn’t happen at all. Suddenly, I was out of the boat and the boat was pushing down on my legs. Just as fast as that happened, I jumped back in the boat and into my seat. It was a clear reminder that the wind and flow were in charge and we had to be constantly vigilant. We had been fighting the wind and slowly starting to shiver harder and harder when JC looked at his watch to see we had been in the boat without stopping for over 3 hours. Time to find a camp site.
We beached the SOAR and started looking but found nothing. Too ice cold to get back in the boat we each walked in circles, me doing jumping jacks as well, to try to warm our cores. In addition, our feet are always wet and cold. Even though we have amazing river gear and neoprene booties, nothing stops water and cold that you sit in for hours. After walking circles for 5-10 minutes, JC picked up a stone and skipped it across the Noatak. Looked like a good idea, so I did the same. This gravel bar had the best skipping stones either of us had ever seen (we didn’t talk about that for hours, we didn’t talk at all on that bar, talking would have used precious heat). After 50-60 throws each we felt much better... still ice cold, but renewed the way a 12 year old boy feels after skipping rocks at his favorite lake.
Back in the boat we were committed to finding a camp spot as good as the night before. One with some wind protection, and also on the soft muskeg of the Arctic instead of in mud which was everywhere else. On our third stop we found just that spot. No matter that there was a collection of small fox holes with a hole three times that big just behind our tent. No matter that there was a pile of grizzly crap near our bear canisters and boat. Little wind, few bugs, a gravel beach to fish from and wander on. The spot was perfect.
We did some unsuccessful fishing. Ate a hot dinner that tastes so good each night. And then the magic happened. The sun came out for the first time in 4 days. A swath of blue sky opened above us and just as we were about to lose the sun to clouds over and over again the blue swath extended and the sun stayed out. JC walked the gravel bar and I took off my wet shoes and socks and laid on the gravel bar in the shining birthday sun. A true birthday miracle. Amazing end to a very difficult day. Since we did so many more miles than we planned on today, we will do a big day hike tomorrow and stay in this spot for another night.
Day #15
7/30
13 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Woke up to no rain. Did some gravel bar walking and saw some, what looked like, fox prints maybe from the huge den behind our campsite. After breakfast and packing up we headed into the canyon about 2 miles from our campsite that followed Tunukuchiak Creek. Walking is hard in the Arctic 95% of the time. We either walk through gravel washes, up creeks or rivers, through ankle deep muck that is a combination of rain water and melting permafrost, or we are walking on tuft mounts that have no particular pattern and are surrounded by more muck. Ever play or see whack-a-mole? Walking on three tufts is like stepping on those moles. And crossing water, I would say we cross or ford creeks and or rivers 30-50 times a day. Some are just over the top of the shoe. Some are up to our thighs. Some are barely moving and some flow with such force that it’s everything we can do to stay upright. A few close calls but no one has gone in.
Walking the mesa, we dropped into the creek bed. The water was stunning. All we’ve seen for the last 3 days is angry silt filed water. This water was crystal clear and a deep aquamarine blue. We hiked in and out of rain, sun and mosquitoes needing to adjust our clothing each time the conditions changed.
Deeper into the canyon we saw two bald eagles and their nest atop a rock cliff overhanging the creek bed. Later we saw a Golden Eagle circling. Lots of carnage again today. Many caribou racks and notably the biggest one of the trip. We ended atop a hill overlooking an enormous lake. On the way out we came across what looked like a wolf that had been killed and eaten. Lots of fur and even one long piece of fur still attached to dry skin. Small bones and teeth were all that were left. As we continued we saw two more areas of the wolf that it must have been dragged to. Life is wild and violent in the Arctic for sure.
Day #16
7/31
Zero day
Hung out all day. Big breakfast. Snacked. Big dinner. In the morning hours we heard the yelps and cries of wolves. We gave chase to the sound walking up and over a nearby mesa. Even though we thought we heard exactly where the source of the sound was coming from, we saw nothing and heard no other sounds. At camp, we further explored what we thought was a fox den and an enormous hole bigger than the first we had found. We also found a ton of scattered carnage. It was then obvious. It wasn’t a fox den after all. We were camped just yards away from a major wolf den made up of at least a dozen network of holes. It was fascinating.
Later, we fished a bit with no success and enjoyed our nightly happy hour. We skipped some rocks with sore arms from our skipping a couple days earlier. And we chatted. Tomorrow, our goal is to paddle between 10-13 miles to the last backpacking option. Talked to Golden Eagle today (using the InReach for emergency texting and SOS capabilities) and we were told that the Cutler River confluence gravel bar is underwater from the heavy rains and we need to plan for a take out at Otter Bar, 67 miles sooner than we planned. Ironically, this works to our advantage in terms of giving us time for one last big backpacking trip. The paddling has served to get us from one amazing hiking opportunity to the next. This change of plans has been an unexpected gift.
Day #17
8/1
10 Paddle Miles and then
8 Backpack Miles
Woke up to SUN! First time we have woken up to sun in 9 days. It was glorious. And so was the coffee. We dried out gear and got ready for our paddle. We were aiming for Kavachurak Creek and Canyon to shoot to get one more big backpacking trip in. The paddle started wonderfully. It was a sightseer's dream. No wind. Sun. And just a paddle stroke here or there to fine tune the direction. For about 90 minutes we almost felt guilty for relaxing so much. Then everything changed. The river narrowed with tall cliff banks. The water started churning. There were huge boulders under the water creating whirlpools, eddies, and lateral waves. For the next hour we fought and struggled to keep the boat heading into the waves downstream. Never could we let our guard down. The entire trip has only really seen the Noatak at a Class 1. Today, we were in Class 2 for this hour and unbeknownst to us, would close out our paddle with a Class 3 rapid.
Seeing ahead in the water is tough and we aimed for the outer bank of the final rapid. As we approached it was very obvious that the water level at the head of the rapid was significantly higher than the level at the bottom of the rapid. We hit the rapid perfectly with the bow of our boat facing forward and dropping off the top. As we hit the bottom we both dug our paddles in deep to keep the boat straight. As we did a wave hit the front of the boat and sent a splash of water on, up, and over me in the front seat. Pulling out of the rapid we beached the SOAR and replayed what had just happened about a hundred times. We had hit it perfectly and moved through it just as we should have. We had come a very long way in our River skills in a very short time.
About a mile further, and still in very unsettled water we found the spot we were looking for. Pulling the boat the shore we jumped out, climbed the bank, and found a terrific spot to set up the tent. Not sure if it’s been mentioned, but each timed we finish a paddle for the day we need to hike our 300 pounds of gear far away from the water. The food goes about 50 yards from camp and the boat gets pulled out of the water and up on land before being turned upside down. It’s quite a process. We unpacked everything and then repacked all our backpacking things for our trip. We took food for three nights and while typing this I’m sure glad we did. This valley we are in is amazing. The hike in was stunning. Up and over a few hills. Down a side wash while hiking in and out of the water. Then, up to a bluff paralleling the Kavachurak creek down below. And finally, walking in the gravel wash. The gravel was perfect to walk on. Level and small comfortable stones. The water was crystal clear, fairly shallow and icy cold. The creek spread into multiple runs in the wash and we must have crossed it 30-40 times. The sun continued to shine and we had a light breeze to keep the bugs off. About 7 miles in we spotted an area we wanted to check out the following day so we are camped directly under it tonight. In the last mile a single Caribou was walking down the wash towards us. She saw us when we saw her and we got some glimpses as she changed direction. We dropped our packs and tried to follow her path towards the outside of the wash. She disappeared into some willows and by the time we saw her again she was heading up the hill on the opposite side of the canyon. She moved amazingly fast.
Terrific dinner and wonderful evening. This is the first day of no rain in 9 days. We shall see if it lasts.
Day #18
8/2
15 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
It lasted. It lightly drizzled for 10 minutes today. Glorious. We woke up and packed for a day hike. We were out by 10:55 but not before seeing a Caribou family of 3 wander down the valley in front of our tent but still at 100+ yards away. We were aiming for an unknown beautiful peak. We could see from our campsite that there was a bowl beneath its rocky spires and we were hoping to make it there. The hike up out of camp was extremely hard. Steep in angle, the ground was a mucky muddy bog of uneven mounds. It took hours to go the first 5 miles. Probably the hardest hiking we have done here to date. With binoculars, we did spot two caribou in the drainage a bit from where the group of three had been earlier.
After a good rest we started in on the second third of the hike. The second third of our hike was extremely eventful. The first animal we came in contact with was a large single caribou coming down a hill directly at us. In all, we spent an easy hour with this fella. He was not happy with us for being in his valley. And he didn’t like the sound of the shutter on the camera taking pictures of him. He made quite a show of telling us he wasn’t happy including coming about 30 yards from us in a very aggressive manner. It was the first and only time both JC and I had our bear spray out and the trigger lock taken out. He then made his way off about 75 yards from us and stood like a statue most of the time staring at us. Just like we were staring at him. He looked up the valley once, just as we did, as a small unseen rockfall came off the peak we were aiming for. This staring contest went on and on until we finally decided to move on.
About 15 minutes later we saw a calf and mother up on the ridge looking confused and wanting to get down to dad. They then disappeared and reappeared much further down the ridge. Just as suddenly, they reappeared in the first place they were. We stayed perfectly still hoping they would pass us. They finally slowly and carefully came past us only to circle below us and start back up. The male stood perfectly still down from us the entire time. It amazed us that he didn’t call for them. The mom and baby did some confused circles and some hip jumps before finally finding their way back to dad and then down the valley. The male walked a few feet to the ridge, turned around and stared once more at us for a bit before slowly turning and following his family out of sight.
Not long after, another caribou came at us but not in an aggressive way. And then, a bit later we caught a glimpse of a Dall's sheep. We walked up to the ledge where we had last seen it and it was gone. Completely gone. We looked up and down the valley. It had vanished. The vanishing sheep. As we approached the bowl under the peak we came upon two more separate Caribou coming out of the bowl we were approaching. The bowl was just as epic as we had imagined. We stood and sat there for about 30 minutes drying out our sweaty bodies and having snacks and water. The definition of the peak being this close to it was stunning. Sections of ice still clung to rock and we could see where all the most recent rockfall had taken place. We saw some Dall's Sheep checking us out from an adjacent ridge and our disappearing sheep showed back up as well. It took 2200 feet in elevation to get here and it was well worth it. We had an amazing hike down that took less than half the time that way up took on nearly perfect terrain for these parts.
It’s still unreal that I’m here. All the planning and dreaming about this trip and I’m here. In the middle of it. Deeply experiencing it every day. The days are so long and I have trouble getting into my tent at night or staying in when I wake. Everywhere you look is a visual feast. There’s no way to take it all in but I do my very best each and every day to do just that. The hunger to see as much as I can in the short time I’m here just never fades. Closing my eyes to sleep, when it’s always light, feels like a waste of precious time and opportunity. But rest I must so that I can put on the big miles yet again.
We left on this hike at 11 am. We arrived back at camp at 9:30 pm, had dinner. Some self care. 11:00 pm now as I write in full daylight. Epic day.
Day #19
8/3
10 Day Hike Miles
0 Paddle Miles
Another amazing day. And another 2200 feet in elevation gain. Up at about 5 am to find a tree and everything in the valley was covered in ice. Woke up for good at 9 and all the ice was gone. Coffee (the only thing to get our motors going) and packing was done and we headed out for a similar high country route to yesterday. This one on the west side of the drainage. Aiming to make a loop, we crossed the enormous drainage just to the north and headed up. The ground was kind and we made good time in the icy cold wind. Today felt more like autumn in the Arctic than summer. Even the colors seemed to be changing to more oranges and reds. About an hour in, we saw a female Caribou acting strangely. Most don’t come near us and effortlessly move away quickly. This one stayed on the ledge just below us for a long time. She was just wandering around and smelling the ground a lot. Like she was lost. We continued up a few rises and then down others. There was a valley and pass we could see from camp that we were trying to ultimately get to. About another hour in we saw another caribou over a ridge. We split up to take different routes up the last fin ridge into our valley. As I crested, on the other side below was that same caribou feeding. I crouched down and just watched. Even snapping a few pictures didn’t get his attention. It was fun to be able to watch one of these large graceful animals without it knowing I was there. Once JC got to my part of the ridge we headed into the final valley towards the pass. Immediately, we started seeing more Caribou. In all today, we spotted 27 different caribou. It was magical. As we headed up the valley approaching the pass and multiple caribou were grazing ahead of us. They moved on as we got closer and then more animals appeared from over the pass. Two females with two calves, one the color we are use to seeing, and one that was almost gray. Two more appeared on the cliff to our left standing on a snow patch. They went over the pass while the moms and kids went behind us. When we crested the amazing pass, we had a 50 mile northwest view to the right and two spiked peaks just to the left. Straight down below, there were three more large males. Then, two more on the cliff to the right. They were everywhere.
We came out of the wind to the eastern side of the pass and sat for a snack and to chat about everything that had gone on. While watching animals we are silent and respectful, only later, on a break, do we relive the story together. It’s fun and fascinating to hear the story from the other person’s experience. We always both hear things we missed or interpreted differently. While talking and taking the break, the female from 3 hours earlier and 3 miles back came wandering to the foot of the pass doing the same thing...wandering and smelling the ground. She wasn’t lost she was looking for something. She. Mom. We just saw babies. She’s looking for her baby. And had been for a long time. Could have been way before we saw her in the first place. We watched her desperately search. Looking at us constantly as if to either ask, “Have you seen my child?” Or to say, “What have YOU done with my child?!” After about 20 minutes we got geared back up and started down. About 20 steps later we heard a cry. From our right, on a cliff face, came a tiny baby caribou. She stopped, and looked at us confused, and then hurried down to mom. The two trotted off together. Magical. JC said he felt like we just saw a Disney movie. The true definition of a happy ending.
We started down and saw a large male standing in the same exact spot as he was before we started up the ridge. He was in the exact direction we were going so we slowly approached. He took a few steps through the bolder field he was in and it was obvious. He was injured and in lots of pain. He stayed ahead of us for quite some time and it was sad to watch. The juxtaposition to the joy we had just witnessed. Nature. In all it’s glory. We made our way past him to the last high altitude cliff of our trip which faced a rocky bowl.
Walking in game trails that have been formed by caribou migrations that have gone on for thousands of years is unreal. Sometimes, while walking I will choose a path that looks like a combination of the easiest terrain and the best view. More times than not, I’ll find myself on a game trail and realize that I’m not only following in the footsteps of so many 4 leggeds but that I’m also thinking like one of them as I choose my path. Every day I feel more connected to nature and this place. Every day is a gift.
After peering in and walking the ridge down, we were back in the drains and on our way to camp. Hot dinner. Sitting by the creek to write in my journal during a late happy hour. A fine end to a fine day.
Day #20
8/4
8 Backpack Miles
0 Paddle Miles
It was cold last night. Colder than the night before. The coldest night yet. There was thicker ice on everything and even some ice on the creek. Autumn is coming and life here has very little time left to do its thing.
After drying things out and coffee....oh coffee...we headed out at about 11 to partly cloudy skies. We were hiking back to a base camp that was already set up and both completely out of food except for some small snacks to get us 8 miles. We could smell the barn as JC said. I could smell the hay. The walk back was a mixture of sun, rain, and icy wind. We must have stopped to add and drop layers 5 times. Back at camp it was barely drizzling with a partial rainbow in the sky. We went straight to our bear cans and ate till we could eat no more. Then the harder rain started and we escaped to the tent. We napped, read, and journaled for a few hours all as the weather kept changing. It would be raining with the sun out and the tent would bake. The sun would go behind clouds and the rain would stop and we would have to put on layers we had just taken off. Alaska weather. Crazy.
Day #21
8/5
12 Paddle Miles
Otter Bar. That’s where we are. How in hell did we already get to the end of this trip. We were just saying to each-other, “Day three....can you believe we have 3 weeks here?” Where did it go? No two days were the same much less anything at all similar. Every day was a new adventure. New weather (5-10 times a day), new terrain to walk on (all trail-less), new geology, new flowers, new carnage, new birds, bears, wolves, sheep, caribou, and muskox. New challenges. New flowers. New moss and lichens. New mushrooms. New snow and ice. New icy layers of permafrost. New ideas. New game trails. New river and creek crossings (literally hundreds). New plans ( they changed daily and most times multiple times daily.) And new experiences of awe. We don’t feel a sense of awe enough in our daily lives. We need nature to help provide that. Awe invigorates us. Awe reminds us what a small part of this universe we really are. Awe redefines time. Awe provides as many questions as it does answers. And they aren’t questions to be Googled. They are questions to simply ponder. On this trip, awe was everywhere and always. If my eyes were open, the millions of pictures that I observed all created a sense of awe and each in a different way.
Today was our final day on the Noatak. Tomorrow our bush pilot, Jason, picks us up on the tiny gravel runway our tent is 30 feet from.
Today. Like everyday. Was amazing.
I woke to an icy cold sunshine filled morning. After making some coffee for myself I sat back in one of our camp chairs facing the sun. About 10 minuets later I heard the same wild yips and howls we heard a couple nights ago upriver. I put some shoes on, grabbed my bear spray, binoculars, and camera, and walked up the small hill next to camp in the direction I heard the sounds from. I looked and looked, but never saw them and they never called out again.
Boat packed and in the water (for the last time) at 11:15. Rapids met us immediately. Most of the 12 miles had medium sized Class 2 rapids. Today we were ready and hit all of them perfectly. The sun was out sometimes and when it wasn't it was cold. About 2 hours into paddling we saw a beautiful Golden Eagle. It was startled off a beach as we came around a bend. It landed in a snag on the next gravel bar and stayed until we were right next to it. It took off again and flew to a cliff face down river. One that we had to paddle by. Once again it stayed till the last moment and then flew back upriver saying goodbye to us as it went. About 30 minutes later JC and I both spotted something big and brown in an upcoming gravel bar. Using the binoculars it was easy to see. Our first muskox. It was gargantuan. It truly was like something out of prehistoric times. It’s hair and horns made it look like something the Vikings would have tried to domesticate. It seemed to just be playing in the river and as we passed it moved to the gravel bar quickly and then started to run up the side of the adjacent hill. With its incredible size and such short legs, it was incredible how effortless and fluid its movement was. We were so very lucky to get to see this on our last day. A muskox was the thing I wanted to see most on this trip by far.
We paddled another mile and a half to the coordinates we were given to Otter Bar and the landing strip. We found it without much trouble and then set up our tent as the sky was changing from blue to charcoal gray. After the tent we did our separate things for a while, me some organization and some fishing. No luck on fish today. I then decided a swim would be great so I went and got a clean-ish set of clothes to put on after and then hopped in the cold Noatak water as JC fished. When I got out and was drying off I saw something big and brown in a gravel bar up river and across to the other side. It was pretty obvious it was another muskox. JC saw it at the same time and we hurried for cameras and binoculars. We started in the direction wanting to stay out of view behind some willows. The closer we got the further the muskox had made it in our direction after coming across the river. In the end we ended up in the same drainage as Mr. Muskox and had very closeup views of him. He, unlike almost all the other animals that actually saw us, didn’t run, didn’t aggressively posture, he just went on grazing, pausing once in a while look at us. There was no agitation or fear at all. We got to spend quite a bit of time enjoying his presence. It was ....magical.
Coming back to camp we were blown away. We took the long route up a small hill in front of our tent just on the other side of the landing strip and found another wolf den. We are camped about 50 yards from it. This one was much larger with a lot more carnage and a lot more wolf droppings. Saw no wolves tonight. Maybe tomorrow.
Happy hour in the river and dinner with a fire. We haven’t had a fire in the entire trip but have talked about one the last few nights. Next to the landing strip was a fire ring and fire wood. It was perfect. JC had some tortillas and we each had some rice and beans. I even had some string cheese and Alpine freeze dried guacamole. JC browned the tortillas on the fire and we feasted on mini burritos. It was the best dinner of the trip.
Sitting by the fire and out at happy hour we talked a lot about how amazing the trip had been and how lucky and grateful we both are. To our families for supporting us 100%, for Jim and the boat (and Jim & Tip's Arctic wisdom), Zanetti’s gear, Brian’s cooking tips, Aaron for the dry bags, Andy Jenks for the personalized maps and InReach, Jason Fitzpatrick for his camera equipment, Jared the owner of Golden Eagle, Joe for his hospitality in Kotzebue, Ranger Deanna for all her help, Isabela for her hard work putting all of our pictures and video together, and the opportunity to be here. To do this. We are lucky people. We also talked about how lucky we were to have done this together. How much it just worked. How things fell into place. How we gave each other space. Helped each other out. Balanced one another. We were a good team. A team that just might need to have another epic adventure in the future.
But the question...where...
Animal Totals:
1 salmon swimming
2 Golden Eagles
2 Muskox
3 Wolves
4 Bald Eagles
5 Grizzly Bears
30-40 Dahl Sheep
39 Caribou
Countless:
Lemmings, Arctic Terns, Arctic Squirrels, Ptarmigans, Arctic Grayling
Caught Fishing:
Multiple Arctic Grayling
1 Alaskan Salmon
Mile Totals:
133 Hiking Miles
95 Paddle Miles