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42.5 miles
10,786 Ft Elevation Gain I’ve hiked the northern section of the Lost Coast Trail in northern CA many times but have never visited the southern section. While most start the southern section at Needle Rock Visitor center, I decided to start about 8 miles further north at the Nadelos Campground Trailhead just off Bryceland Road. |
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Day #1
5 hour drive
Today: 5.8 miles // 1149 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 5.8 miles // 1149 Ft Elevation Gain
The hike started in the Nadelos Campground. SItting under a canopy of redwood trees with a creek running directly through the middle, the air was damp while the ground and foliage were soaked. The trail crossed the South Fork Bear Creek on a slippery wooden bridge and started up immediately. The trailhead sat at about 1700 feet and the next 4 miles led in an upward direction first, through damp ferns reaching out to dampen pant legs and later through open forests. After about 800 feet of climbing, and getting a little bit higher than 2500 feet, the trail popped out at an observation point that offered an expansive view to the east. The trail rolled up and down for the next mile or so, crossing Chamisal Mountain at 2013 feet and a single flat camp spot.
After passing the mountain peak the trail started downward and, eventually by tomorrow morning, would reach the beach itself. I passed a couple of old broken down cabins, fields of mushrooms and mounds of moss. The day was growing shorter and I began looking for a good spot to camp. By sunset at about 5:15, I still hadn’t found a spot I liked. After another 20 minutes with the sky turning more pink by the moment, I found a spot up on a narrow ridge under a sliver of a moon. After setting up camp, a half a sandwich for dinner, a view of the ocean as the sun went down, I finally turned in. It was a very windy night and I woke up many times to powerful gusts.
Day #2
Today: 16.8 miles // 4142 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 22.6 miles // 5291 Ft Elevation Gain
Hung out in my sleeping bag till the sun came up in hopes that the gusts would let up a bit. It paid off. I was packed up and out of camp at about 9am. The trail continued downward and slowly became more overgrown as it descended. Finally, the trail came to Low Gap Creek and a crossing, this time, with no slippery wooden bridge. After crossing the creek with Neoprene socks (socks I tried in place of my VivoBarefoot--ULTRA 3 camp shoes--- but I’ll be going back to my trusty shoes), I dried off and drank my fill of cold clean water before heading on. Almost immediately, I left the King Range Wilderness and entered Sinkyone State Park. Just over the next rise I stood facing more than a dozen Elk. Mothers and young ones. We stood staring at each other and then I walked very slowly and in a wide arc around them. Some moved away slowly while the rest just watched. I passed a series of backcountry campsites with picnic tables and metal fire rings, passed Needle Rock with sea spray crashing through its center, and arrived at the Needle Rock Visitor Center. I met Stan, the current caretaker who I chatted with for almost an hour. We talked about everything under the sun and I walked away with all kinds of useful information and interesting ideas to think through.
The trail was pleasant for the next couple miles keeping pretty consistent elevation. Passing a few other backcountry campsites, I saw no one. Immediately, after walking through Bear Camp, the trail started climbing and became much more overgrown. I climbed about 800 feet only to drop right back down and into my first old growth redwood grove on the trail. The trees were monsters and I took my time weaving my way among them and stopping to look up every few steps. The air was still and absent of any sounds except for my footsteps. It was spectacular. Once again the trail climbed another 800 feet before descending that much and more to my second old growth stand of redwoods called School Marm Grove. I took my pack off here and laid on my small foam mat that doubles as the back of my backpack, peering up into the never ending reaches of the canopy. After a snack I headed back up another 800 feet. Quite the rollercoaster indeed. Dropping back down 1000 feet to the beach, I arrived at Wheeler Camp. Spread out over about a mile, the backcountry sites range from spots in the woods, to spots along the creek and even one out onto the beach. It was completely empty.
After watching the waves crash near high tide, I hiked on. As expected by now, the trail rose steeply and was even more overgrown, washed out and littered with blowdowns. Stan, the caretaker, had told me that volunteers were having a tough time keeping up with trail maintenance and the further I traveled south, the worse condition the trail would be in. Over the next 5 miles that became very evident having to get into some pretty precarious positions to get past obstacles on sections of the trail that rose almost vertically on one side, while it dropped almost vertically on the other.
I climbed about 1200 feet and then dropped that same amount back to a beach at Little Jackass Creek. Just as I came down to the creek an enormous Elk (buck) wandered out of the forest. We stood looking at each other for quite some time before I was the first to move on. A moment of awe. This was the next backcountry campsite that I had read was some of the “finest camping in the redwoods to be had.” I’ve camped some pretty spectacular places in Redwood National Park and I’ve got to say...this one just didn’t compare. The trees were indeed huge and beautiful...but the area was overused, dark and very wet. A recipe for a condensation nightmare of a tent. Even though I was at about 14 hard miles for the day, I decided to continue south a bit to see how the trail was on the way to the next campsite at Anderson Camp. About 20 minutes in, it was obvious that the trail was getting worse and getting to Anderson would not be enjoyable. I decided to turn back north and see if I could find something better than I’d seen earlier. Doing this, I missed the last 6 or so miles of the Lost Coast Trail. From what I’ve read, these last handful of miles aren’t anywhere near as spectacular as what I’d already seen. Plus, it will be nice to leave something new for the next trip here.
After about an hour, and a total of about 17 miles, I found a nice flat spot on a small ridge with a nice breeze to keep the air moving. I set up camp, cooked a terrific homemade Parmesan Noodle dinner, and headed into my tent. Another mediocre night of sleep. The wind picked up again and tossed gusts at the wall of my tent on and off a lot of the night. And my sleeping pad has a hole somewhere that I’d put some air into every few hours. But...a bad night of sleep in the backcountry is always better than a great night of sleep in the front-country.
Day #3
Today: 16.82 miles // 4832 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 39.4 miles // 10,123 Ft Elevation Gain
Up early wanting to get an earlier start than yesterday. On the trail a bit before 8am today. Began the hike climbing back to 1200 feet and then dropping back down to Wheeler Camp. This was the tough section and didn’t get any easier than it was yesterday for sure. The hike back north was about 70% in the fog today. The lighting was just beautiful and I stopped to take many photos. Somewhere between Wheeler and Bear Camps, I began to see the first other hikers and bikers of the trip. Many backpacking groups of 2-3 and as I got closer to the Visitor center, day hikers and even some bikes (as the first 2 miles out of the VC are allowed for bikes). When I got the VC I was shocked to see the parking lot, which had a couple cars yesterday, was filled with cars today. I sat at a picnic table in the sun trying to dry out the clothes I had on after a very wet morning. As I was having a snack, Stan came out to see how my day and night were and to get any trail information I might have to share. We chatted for a bit while I snacked and continued to dry out. Eventually, he went back inside and I packed up to walk north.
My plan was to camp at Jones Beach camp in a grove of delicious smelling Eucalyptus trees that I had walked through a day before, but when I arrived, not only were there a few others camped, but it was foggy and cold. It was only about 2:00 and I just didn't want to stop this early in a place that I’d have to put on all kinds of clothes to stay warm. I remembered a spot that I had seen on day 1 coming over the top of Chamisal Mountain. A spot just big enough for one tent. And a spot that would most probably be at an elevation that I’d be above the fog and in the sun. That meant climbing and that was ok with me. So starting at an elevation of 24ft, and after re-crossing Low Gap Creek once again, I ascended over 2000 feet and into the warm sunshine. I reached my little oasis at about 3:30 and promptly spread all of my clothes and gear out atop the sturdy manzanita bushes in the full sun. In no time at all everything, except my shoes, was bone dry (I’d place my shoes atop the bushes for the night and they too were completely dry come morning.)
I was treated to an amazing sunset that included a bank of fog a thousand feet below and a layer of cumulus clouds just above that along with a sliver of a moon in the western sky as the stars began to appear. I was lucky enough to get some terrific pictures of not only the changing colors of the sunset, but also of the beautiful starry night. It was another windy night and another night of a leaky sleeping pad….but I can sleep when I get home.
Day # 4
Today: 3.07 miles // 663 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 42.5 miles // 10,786 Ft Elevation Gain
Woke up to a beautiful sunrise and after a quick pack up, I was back on the trail. I climbed for another 600+ feet, before passing the overlook and then it was all downhill to the trailhead. Getting close to the Nadelos Campground, it became foggy and wet again and as I entered the empty campground, I was walking through puddles.
This was just the right trip at just the right time to just the right place. At a time when everything east of my home is covered in snow...and a time when Covid is at its worst in my state…..I just couldn't have found myself in a better spot. I’ll be back. I’ll be back sooner than later for sure!
5 hour drive
Today: 5.8 miles // 1149 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 5.8 miles // 1149 Ft Elevation Gain
The hike started in the Nadelos Campground. SItting under a canopy of redwood trees with a creek running directly through the middle, the air was damp while the ground and foliage were soaked. The trail crossed the South Fork Bear Creek on a slippery wooden bridge and started up immediately. The trailhead sat at about 1700 feet and the next 4 miles led in an upward direction first, through damp ferns reaching out to dampen pant legs and later through open forests. After about 800 feet of climbing, and getting a little bit higher than 2500 feet, the trail popped out at an observation point that offered an expansive view to the east. The trail rolled up and down for the next mile or so, crossing Chamisal Mountain at 2013 feet and a single flat camp spot.
After passing the mountain peak the trail started downward and, eventually by tomorrow morning, would reach the beach itself. I passed a couple of old broken down cabins, fields of mushrooms and mounds of moss. The day was growing shorter and I began looking for a good spot to camp. By sunset at about 5:15, I still hadn’t found a spot I liked. After another 20 minutes with the sky turning more pink by the moment, I found a spot up on a narrow ridge under a sliver of a moon. After setting up camp, a half a sandwich for dinner, a view of the ocean as the sun went down, I finally turned in. It was a very windy night and I woke up many times to powerful gusts.
Day #2
Today: 16.8 miles // 4142 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 22.6 miles // 5291 Ft Elevation Gain
Hung out in my sleeping bag till the sun came up in hopes that the gusts would let up a bit. It paid off. I was packed up and out of camp at about 9am. The trail continued downward and slowly became more overgrown as it descended. Finally, the trail came to Low Gap Creek and a crossing, this time, with no slippery wooden bridge. After crossing the creek with Neoprene socks (socks I tried in place of my VivoBarefoot--ULTRA 3 camp shoes--- but I’ll be going back to my trusty shoes), I dried off and drank my fill of cold clean water before heading on. Almost immediately, I left the King Range Wilderness and entered Sinkyone State Park. Just over the next rise I stood facing more than a dozen Elk. Mothers and young ones. We stood staring at each other and then I walked very slowly and in a wide arc around them. Some moved away slowly while the rest just watched. I passed a series of backcountry campsites with picnic tables and metal fire rings, passed Needle Rock with sea spray crashing through its center, and arrived at the Needle Rock Visitor Center. I met Stan, the current caretaker who I chatted with for almost an hour. We talked about everything under the sun and I walked away with all kinds of useful information and interesting ideas to think through.
The trail was pleasant for the next couple miles keeping pretty consistent elevation. Passing a few other backcountry campsites, I saw no one. Immediately, after walking through Bear Camp, the trail started climbing and became much more overgrown. I climbed about 800 feet only to drop right back down and into my first old growth redwood grove on the trail. The trees were monsters and I took my time weaving my way among them and stopping to look up every few steps. The air was still and absent of any sounds except for my footsteps. It was spectacular. Once again the trail climbed another 800 feet before descending that much and more to my second old growth stand of redwoods called School Marm Grove. I took my pack off here and laid on my small foam mat that doubles as the back of my backpack, peering up into the never ending reaches of the canopy. After a snack I headed back up another 800 feet. Quite the rollercoaster indeed. Dropping back down 1000 feet to the beach, I arrived at Wheeler Camp. Spread out over about a mile, the backcountry sites range from spots in the woods, to spots along the creek and even one out onto the beach. It was completely empty.
After watching the waves crash near high tide, I hiked on. As expected by now, the trail rose steeply and was even more overgrown, washed out and littered with blowdowns. Stan, the caretaker, had told me that volunteers were having a tough time keeping up with trail maintenance and the further I traveled south, the worse condition the trail would be in. Over the next 5 miles that became very evident having to get into some pretty precarious positions to get past obstacles on sections of the trail that rose almost vertically on one side, while it dropped almost vertically on the other.
I climbed about 1200 feet and then dropped that same amount back to a beach at Little Jackass Creek. Just as I came down to the creek an enormous Elk (buck) wandered out of the forest. We stood looking at each other for quite some time before I was the first to move on. A moment of awe. This was the next backcountry campsite that I had read was some of the “finest camping in the redwoods to be had.” I’ve camped some pretty spectacular places in Redwood National Park and I’ve got to say...this one just didn’t compare. The trees were indeed huge and beautiful...but the area was overused, dark and very wet. A recipe for a condensation nightmare of a tent. Even though I was at about 14 hard miles for the day, I decided to continue south a bit to see how the trail was on the way to the next campsite at Anderson Camp. About 20 minutes in, it was obvious that the trail was getting worse and getting to Anderson would not be enjoyable. I decided to turn back north and see if I could find something better than I’d seen earlier. Doing this, I missed the last 6 or so miles of the Lost Coast Trail. From what I’ve read, these last handful of miles aren’t anywhere near as spectacular as what I’d already seen. Plus, it will be nice to leave something new for the next trip here.
After about an hour, and a total of about 17 miles, I found a nice flat spot on a small ridge with a nice breeze to keep the air moving. I set up camp, cooked a terrific homemade Parmesan Noodle dinner, and headed into my tent. Another mediocre night of sleep. The wind picked up again and tossed gusts at the wall of my tent on and off a lot of the night. And my sleeping pad has a hole somewhere that I’d put some air into every few hours. But...a bad night of sleep in the backcountry is always better than a great night of sleep in the front-country.
Day #3
Today: 16.82 miles // 4832 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 39.4 miles // 10,123 Ft Elevation Gain
Up early wanting to get an earlier start than yesterday. On the trail a bit before 8am today. Began the hike climbing back to 1200 feet and then dropping back down to Wheeler Camp. This was the tough section and didn’t get any easier than it was yesterday for sure. The hike back north was about 70% in the fog today. The lighting was just beautiful and I stopped to take many photos. Somewhere between Wheeler and Bear Camps, I began to see the first other hikers and bikers of the trip. Many backpacking groups of 2-3 and as I got closer to the Visitor center, day hikers and even some bikes (as the first 2 miles out of the VC are allowed for bikes). When I got the VC I was shocked to see the parking lot, which had a couple cars yesterday, was filled with cars today. I sat at a picnic table in the sun trying to dry out the clothes I had on after a very wet morning. As I was having a snack, Stan came out to see how my day and night were and to get any trail information I might have to share. We chatted for a bit while I snacked and continued to dry out. Eventually, he went back inside and I packed up to walk north.
My plan was to camp at Jones Beach camp in a grove of delicious smelling Eucalyptus trees that I had walked through a day before, but when I arrived, not only were there a few others camped, but it was foggy and cold. It was only about 2:00 and I just didn't want to stop this early in a place that I’d have to put on all kinds of clothes to stay warm. I remembered a spot that I had seen on day 1 coming over the top of Chamisal Mountain. A spot just big enough for one tent. And a spot that would most probably be at an elevation that I’d be above the fog and in the sun. That meant climbing and that was ok with me. So starting at an elevation of 24ft, and after re-crossing Low Gap Creek once again, I ascended over 2000 feet and into the warm sunshine. I reached my little oasis at about 3:30 and promptly spread all of my clothes and gear out atop the sturdy manzanita bushes in the full sun. In no time at all everything, except my shoes, was bone dry (I’d place my shoes atop the bushes for the night and they too were completely dry come morning.)
I was treated to an amazing sunset that included a bank of fog a thousand feet below and a layer of cumulus clouds just above that along with a sliver of a moon in the western sky as the stars began to appear. I was lucky enough to get some terrific pictures of not only the changing colors of the sunset, but also of the beautiful starry night. It was another windy night and another night of a leaky sleeping pad….but I can sleep when I get home.
Day # 4
Today: 3.07 miles // 663 Ft Elevation Gain
Total: 42.5 miles // 10,786 Ft Elevation Gain
Woke up to a beautiful sunrise and after a quick pack up, I was back on the trail. I climbed for another 600+ feet, before passing the overlook and then it was all downhill to the trailhead. Getting close to the Nadelos Campground, it became foggy and wet again and as I entered the empty campground, I was walking through puddles.
This was just the right trip at just the right time to just the right place. At a time when everything east of my home is covered in snow...and a time when Covid is at its worst in my state…..I just couldn't have found myself in a better spot. I’ll be back. I’ll be back sooner than later for sure!
