Day 1
Orick Horse Camp to Tall Trees
13.5 miles
After a 6 hour drive out of the heat and into the coastal trade winds, I checked into the Kuchel Visitor Center at about 11:30 am. Talking to the Rangers, I learned that the summer bridges were not in place yet. The Rangers suggested that I take the horse trail over a mountain to get to the creek area where I’d be hiking. I was told it was a couple miles further but also, over the mountain.
I parked at Orick Horse Camp and paid the 5$ a night to park my car. This trail would be the one that started on the west side of the creek so I didn’t have to ford it down steam where today’s 420 cubic feet per minute was a bit too high for them to “recommend” crossing. I jumped up on the levy and walked for about 15 minutes before entering the forest at an ascending angle. The elevation gain turned out to be 1900 feet. The way up was pretty gentle but the two drops down were extremely muddy, steep and overgrown. After almost 7 miles, I hit the Redwood Creek Trail along Redwood Creek. It was immediately spectacular. Red Alder, Big Leaf Maple, and Coast Redwoods. Most redwoods were second generation in this area but they were spectacular.
The trail wound along the creek making its way over or through some small streams. McArthur Creek and 44 Creek had very old bridges crossing their spans. 44’s was so old that there were parts of the railing and parts of the deck missing. Bond Creek’s bridge had been washed away years ago leaving a tricky climb into and out of the gorge as well as a log obstacle course crossing.
Finally, at the creek crossing just north of Tall Trees, I crossed the creek to set up camp. The crossing was wet almost the waist. Setting my clothes on some willow branches to dry, I set up camp in very little time. When you have very little with you, set up takes no time at all.
The park gives out limited “Dispersed Camping” permits each day to backpackers wanting to stay in the back-country. Camping on the gravel benches of the creek was mandatory. Finding the perfect spot with sand was key. I found my spot. I’d gotten a permit for 3 nights.
After a bit of dinner it was time to explore. I’d walked 12 miles but the Tall Trees loop was about a mile (and only about a 1/2 mile south of me.) Off I went.
After about 5 minutes I hit the loop and decided to go counter clockwise. I was immediately in old growth and if I thought earlier this afternoon was spectacular... this was even more grand.
These were giants. Everywhere. After about 1/4 mile, the trail moved out of the redwoods and into a Big Leaf Maple forest just as amazing... just in a different way. These were the broadest maples I'd ever seen in my life. Their branches and trunks were entirely covered in a thick moss that gave the trees a look of being almost twice as large. A large fallen maple branch lay next to the trail. With moss, it came up to my waist. I laid down on its mossy bed and stared up at the branches and leaves forever.
Continuing on, I saw a deer that didn’t want to get off the trail in front of me. We stared at each other for quite some time before he ambled off through the shoulder high ground cover of ferns. All I could see as I walked by were the tops of ferns gently moving and the sound of hoof falls that accompanied the movement.
Not long after, I came to the Tall Tree (Libby Tree). At 362 ft tall, it’s quite close to the size of a 30 story building. I couldn’t even see 1/2 way to the top.
Just past was a colossal redwood that had fallen just 9 days earlier (I found out later). The base of its trunk, the part with the largest diameter, was laying directly across the trail. At about 9 ft high, there was no going over this blow down.
I’d decided to stay a couple nights here so that I could spend as much time in this grove as possible. The only way to get here is a 12 mile out and back or to score one of the 50 permits a day to a gate code that gets you to a Trailhead 1.4 miles from the loop.
I was now here and I was going to make the most of it. I could tell that people had started making a trail through the ferns and around the base of the fallen giant. Knowing that I’d do the loop numerous times while here, I went though only once knowing that from now on I’d use the fall as my turn around.
On the back side of the loop, the towering giants were more plentiful as the trail wove between them. I arrived back at camp at almost 9 to a crescent moon and a sky full of bats diving for the mosquitoes above the creek. It was a beautiful night.
Day 2
Camp just north of Tall Trees south, back, and loops
11 miles
Woke up to a bit of dew on my quilt. Slept wonderfully. After some breakfast, I filled my pockets with a water bottle and snacks before taking off. I walked the east side of the loop to the back and then back down to the creek. I decided to cross the creek and make my way south towards the Emerald Mile. After about an hour it was obvious that I wasn’t going to make it. Traveling by walking through the water proved slow and “route finding” was difficult in terms of staying in shallow enough water to allow me to move forward.
Trying the trees wasn’t much faster. I’d find a logging road and make pretty good progress for a few minutes at a time, before the “road” was eaten up by the forest. In the end I decided to go back to the loop. I did my best to closely follow my tracks back. Just before I started heading back down the hill to recross the creek, I heard the sound of metal. I stopped. Listened. And heard nothing. I started walking again and a few seconds later, heard it a second time. Again I stopped. I listened. I heard it two more times but not coming from the exact same spot. The sounds were near each other and somewhere on the steep hill above me. I glanced up. I heard them again.. now three and up high. Higher than the ground. Up. Up in the trees.
And then I saw them. At least three individuals in crazy looking harnesses each climbing adjacent redwoods about 200 yards from me. If they saw me they took no notice. I watched mesmerized for a few minutes and then left them as quickly as I found them.
Recrossing Redwood Creek, I stepped back onto the Tall Trees loop. Even before I saw the blow down, I’d decided to walk loops but change my direction each time (as things look totally different seeing the same landscape from a new direction.) The fallen tree would just be my turn around point.
And that was it. It’s what I did for the rest of the day and evening. I’d make my way “around” always turning around at the fall, back and forth. Every so often, I’d take the spur trail back to camp to snack, hydrate, or just sit in the warm sand. That was my day. And my day was wonderful. Sleep came easy once again.
Day 3
Camp just north of Tall Trees north to Redwood Creek Trailhead then road walk/levy walk to car.
11 miles
There was a lot more dew on my quilt and tent this morning. As I set it out to dry in preparation for my 6 mile walk back to the Horse Trail split where I planned to camp for the night on another gravel bar, it occurred to me that the dry time would take a while. I started thinking about the next day and getting in all the hikes I wanted. It was now 8 am. That’s when I decided to hike out tonight instead of tomorrow. At first, my plan was to go back the same way I came. But then a new idea started brewing. Making the trip into more of a loop. I’d hike back to the Horse Trail split but continue on Redwood Creek Trail to the trail-head and then walk the road to twin, hop on the levy and walk back to the horse camp and car. The only tricky part might be crossing the creek downstream where the flow would be higher after picking up the runoff from many streams between here and there. But... kinda rather see something new. So... I dried things out (over about an hour), had some breakfast and I was off.
Everything went as planned. The hike was a gradual downhill which got warmer the later the day got. The crossing wasn’t difficult and the road walk was interesting too.
Back at my car, I used the restroom I was shown when I parked. And that’s when I saw it. A coin operated shower. And I had quarters. Done deal. And just like that I was clean.
I drove back to the Visitor Center to ask a few more questions.
Then drove an hour north to the Hiouchi Visitor Center in Jedediah Smith State Park where another ranger gave me great info about my time in that park.
I used their picnic area to spread out my gear and food and do a clean out. The plan from here on (just a plan) was car camping and day hiking.
Tonight I’d be sleeping in a small free Forest Service campground just east of the park. Not wanting to set up the tent, I’m “car camping” and sleeping in my Honda Pilot.
Plans tomorrow are for more miles in this beautiful park.
Day 4
Day hikes
12.5 miles
Not a great night sleep at free Sand Camp while sleeping in the car. Have moved tonight to more free camping. This time at Flint Ridge. It’s a walk-in campground with 8 sites. No reservations and permit at any of the visitor centers (VC) on the day of arrival. I’ve got site #4 for three nights. Not sure if I’ll stay 3 but I’ve got it.
Spent the day on trail. First on the Mill Creek Trail connected to the Hatton Trail. The out and back was about 7 miles. I skipped a part of the Mill Creek that I might do in the next few days.
The scenery was amazing. So very different than the Redwood Creek area. The trees seemed to be smaller at the base but no less tall. Actually, it was in 1998 that the Grove of Titans was discovered by explorers Steve Sillett and Michale Taylor. The grove includes the coast redwood with the widest branch and 3 of the 10 tallest trees on earth. It was kept a secret until the GPS location was leaked on the internet. Now, looky-loos from all over come with their selfie sticks to take their social media pics. Unfortunately, these trees are off trail and people have severely damaged the ecosystem as they trounce off into the woods to find the fabled giants. There are “stay on the trail” signs everywhere in one 1/8 mile section almost bringing more attention to it than necessary. I got lucky as they are closing this trail for a good chunk of time very soon in an effort to build new trails to this enormous grove.
The hike got very hot as I neared the Klamath River. The way back was much cooler back in Mill Creek Canyon. Just before I turned back into the canyon I saw a few people in kayaks out on the water. Hmmmm.
Getting back to the car I wasn’t sure what to do next but did know I needed to stop by the VC to get a camping permit for Flint Ridge. While there, I talked to the same ranger I spoke with the day before. I got my permit and then asked about a beach hike and about kayaking. She handed me a pamphlet for a local company that she “highly recommended.”
I drove about 5 minutes to get cell service and left them a message.
Then I decided I would start towards the campsite about 45 minutes away and try the beach hike she told me about. I think she maybe drew the directions wrong and I ended up on a 6 mile out and back hike just off the Coastal Trail. It was beautiful. No old growth but plenty of redwoods on one side and the ocean on the other. Amazing.
Pulled into the back of Trees of Mystery (an dd tourist trap for sure) and set up dinner at one of their empty picnic tables. It was nice to reorganize, clean up and eat at a picnic table on lush grass in the shade of the towering redwoods. As I finished I turned my phone on and found a text about kayaking tomorrow. I didn’t have service there but as I drove to the campground my phone got the service needed to make a call. After talking to “Adam” on the phone... I was good to go for full day through the Smith River Gorge through class 2 and 3 rapids. I was excited to get a guide that was going to teach me some river water skills. Although I’ve kayaked in lakes and the ocean many times, this will be my first in a river and I’m super excited! Made my way to Flint. Parked. Walked the 1/4 mile up and in. I got the last of the 8 sites and it’s perfect.
Tomorrow will be a brand new adventure!!
Day 5
South Fork River Day
7 miles
Today started with a sky that began to lighten up around 5:30 am. I didn’t need to be at the meeting spot for the river trip till 9 but I was ready to move.
Left the tent and sleeping bag and headed back to the car and straight back to my dinner spot which would now be my breakfast spot. After filling myself up and straightening out my gear for the day, I headed to the store on 199 to meet up with Adam, owner of Redwood Rides. He and my guide, Joe showed up a few minutes after I did. We chatted and then I followed them to the take out point where Joe and I left our cars and hopped into Adam’s van. After driving about 15 minutes we hopped out and climbed down a very steep and rocky embankment to the river’s edge. In front of me was “Surprise Falls, ” a class 3 rapid that would be the most technical of the day. The guys wanted to look at the flows and also walk me through running it. They explained the flow of the water as well as the rocks I could see and rocks I couldn’t as well as what to do if I got pushed into the rock wall and what to do if I got bounced out of the boat. It was a lot of information. And I was surprised that instead of being a bit freaked out ...instead I was pumped.
We drove for another 20 minutes or so to the put in. Adam and Joe inflated the enormous kayaks and as I took some dry bags, they shouldered the boats. We walked down a 100 yard trail to the water and laid everything out. After some basics in safety, Adam was gone and Joe and I were gliding our boats into the South Fork of the Smith River.
This river flows from the Klamath Mountains to the Pacific Ocean all in Del Norte County. The 7 mile section we would be running was directly through the middle of a beautiful gorge.
Within the first 15 minutes a river otter was making a path for us up ahead. Crawdads and cutthroat darted around under us. And suddenly the first set of rapids was just ahead. Joe showed me the line we would take through the class 2 and we were off.
I learned quickly that, the majority of the time, less paddling is better. This first set I over-paddled a bit and subsequently turned the boat to an angle that, for a second, freaked me out a bit. It would be my last freak out of the day. The rest of the day, through class 1, 2 and 3 rapids. I trusted the boat. I allowed myself to move with the water. And instead of paddling, used my paddle to make small adjustments as I zipped past rocks, pushed through eddies, followed Joe river left and river right and stayed present through each and every set of rapids. It was amazing. Surprise Falls was no surprise since we had checked it out earlier. The largest rapid of the day proved to be a ton of fun.
All in all a great way to spend the day.
We ended at about 3 pm and I’d planned to take another hike. But between being pretty worn out and having super dry and cracked feet from being in so much water on this trip, I decided to instead drive to an overlook I’d wanted to hit and just hang out. It’s been a terrific afternoon and I’m ready to make some dinner before heading back to camp.
Not sure about tomorrow as it’s really gonna depend on my feet.
Day 6
Boy Scout Tree Trail, Stout Grove trail, Whalehead Beach OR.
10 miles
Woke up to pretty good feeling feet and headed directly to the Boy Scout Trail in Jedediah Smith State Park. The out and back ended up being about 6 miles in total. I got to the trail-head at about 7 am and three were no other cars present. I had the place to myself. I’d been excited to do this trail and a section of it ended up being one of my favorites of the trip. The trail started through a jungle-like lowland redwood forest before moving into a dark and lush mixed-species woodland dominated by lichen-draped spruce trees. And then what I’d been waiting for. A section where the redwoods are sparse. They grow in isolation or in small groups of two or three. The are not immense ...but super impressive because the unusually open canopy in sections lets you see the tops of the trees which in most places you just cannot do.
Once back at the car, I drove the road to the Stout Grove. There was a retired volunteer at the trail-head with maps and information. We chatted for a bit before I walked onto the trail. I was pleasantly surprised that there weren't a lot of people on the trail. It was a remarkably hushed environment. Sounds were damped out by the thick, spongy layer of needles on the ground. It wasn’t very far from a campground and VC but it was silent.
Back at the trail-head, I sat town to talk to the volunteer a bit more. He lived in Brookings OR and suggested that I drive the 45 minutes up to the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor. He told me I could find beaches that went on forever and had no one on them. Sounded good to me!
I ended up at Whaleshead Beach. And just like he had told me...once I walked about 100 yards past the people near the parking lot...I had the beach to myself. I walked for about a mile and set up my chair before taking a long swim in the water. I walked the rest of the beach that afternoon and was back at Flint Ridge by 5 pm. My plan was to sleep till midnight and then pack up and hit the road to be home by about 8 am. Great plan...but the sleep didn’t come till almost 10 pm. The 7 hour drive home that night was a tough one but worth it. I got home right when I wanted to be home.
This trip was a backup plan for a back up plan. My original trip had been to the Sierra High Route outside Bishop. With a blast of 30+ feet of snow...there was just no way to do that trip and hike the kind of miles I wanted to put in on a daily basis. The back-up to that trip was part of the Big Foot Trail. A 360 mile trail starting in Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness and ending near Crescent City, CA. But again...way too much snow on the section through the Trinity Alps that I’d planned to hike. This trip was the 3rd option. An option I was a bit bummed about. But in the end...an option that opened my eyes and mind to a brand new option for other trips in the future.
I’ll be back for sure...
Orick Horse Camp to Tall Trees
13.5 miles
After a 6 hour drive out of the heat and into the coastal trade winds, I checked into the Kuchel Visitor Center at about 11:30 am. Talking to the Rangers, I learned that the summer bridges were not in place yet. The Rangers suggested that I take the horse trail over a mountain to get to the creek area where I’d be hiking. I was told it was a couple miles further but also, over the mountain.
I parked at Orick Horse Camp and paid the 5$ a night to park my car. This trail would be the one that started on the west side of the creek so I didn’t have to ford it down steam where today’s 420 cubic feet per minute was a bit too high for them to “recommend” crossing. I jumped up on the levy and walked for about 15 minutes before entering the forest at an ascending angle. The elevation gain turned out to be 1900 feet. The way up was pretty gentle but the two drops down were extremely muddy, steep and overgrown. After almost 7 miles, I hit the Redwood Creek Trail along Redwood Creek. It was immediately spectacular. Red Alder, Big Leaf Maple, and Coast Redwoods. Most redwoods were second generation in this area but they were spectacular.
The trail wound along the creek making its way over or through some small streams. McArthur Creek and 44 Creek had very old bridges crossing their spans. 44’s was so old that there were parts of the railing and parts of the deck missing. Bond Creek’s bridge had been washed away years ago leaving a tricky climb into and out of the gorge as well as a log obstacle course crossing.
Finally, at the creek crossing just north of Tall Trees, I crossed the creek to set up camp. The crossing was wet almost the waist. Setting my clothes on some willow branches to dry, I set up camp in very little time. When you have very little with you, set up takes no time at all.
The park gives out limited “Dispersed Camping” permits each day to backpackers wanting to stay in the back-country. Camping on the gravel benches of the creek was mandatory. Finding the perfect spot with sand was key. I found my spot. I’d gotten a permit for 3 nights.
After a bit of dinner it was time to explore. I’d walked 12 miles but the Tall Trees loop was about a mile (and only about a 1/2 mile south of me.) Off I went.
After about 5 minutes I hit the loop and decided to go counter clockwise. I was immediately in old growth and if I thought earlier this afternoon was spectacular... this was even more grand.
These were giants. Everywhere. After about 1/4 mile, the trail moved out of the redwoods and into a Big Leaf Maple forest just as amazing... just in a different way. These were the broadest maples I'd ever seen in my life. Their branches and trunks were entirely covered in a thick moss that gave the trees a look of being almost twice as large. A large fallen maple branch lay next to the trail. With moss, it came up to my waist. I laid down on its mossy bed and stared up at the branches and leaves forever.
Continuing on, I saw a deer that didn’t want to get off the trail in front of me. We stared at each other for quite some time before he ambled off through the shoulder high ground cover of ferns. All I could see as I walked by were the tops of ferns gently moving and the sound of hoof falls that accompanied the movement.
Not long after, I came to the Tall Tree (Libby Tree). At 362 ft tall, it’s quite close to the size of a 30 story building. I couldn’t even see 1/2 way to the top.
Just past was a colossal redwood that had fallen just 9 days earlier (I found out later). The base of its trunk, the part with the largest diameter, was laying directly across the trail. At about 9 ft high, there was no going over this blow down.
I’d decided to stay a couple nights here so that I could spend as much time in this grove as possible. The only way to get here is a 12 mile out and back or to score one of the 50 permits a day to a gate code that gets you to a Trailhead 1.4 miles from the loop.
I was now here and I was going to make the most of it. I could tell that people had started making a trail through the ferns and around the base of the fallen giant. Knowing that I’d do the loop numerous times while here, I went though only once knowing that from now on I’d use the fall as my turn around.
On the back side of the loop, the towering giants were more plentiful as the trail wove between them. I arrived back at camp at almost 9 to a crescent moon and a sky full of bats diving for the mosquitoes above the creek. It was a beautiful night.
Day 2
Camp just north of Tall Trees south, back, and loops
11 miles
Woke up to a bit of dew on my quilt. Slept wonderfully. After some breakfast, I filled my pockets with a water bottle and snacks before taking off. I walked the east side of the loop to the back and then back down to the creek. I decided to cross the creek and make my way south towards the Emerald Mile. After about an hour it was obvious that I wasn’t going to make it. Traveling by walking through the water proved slow and “route finding” was difficult in terms of staying in shallow enough water to allow me to move forward.
Trying the trees wasn’t much faster. I’d find a logging road and make pretty good progress for a few minutes at a time, before the “road” was eaten up by the forest. In the end I decided to go back to the loop. I did my best to closely follow my tracks back. Just before I started heading back down the hill to recross the creek, I heard the sound of metal. I stopped. Listened. And heard nothing. I started walking again and a few seconds later, heard it a second time. Again I stopped. I listened. I heard it two more times but not coming from the exact same spot. The sounds were near each other and somewhere on the steep hill above me. I glanced up. I heard them again.. now three and up high. Higher than the ground. Up. Up in the trees.
And then I saw them. At least three individuals in crazy looking harnesses each climbing adjacent redwoods about 200 yards from me. If they saw me they took no notice. I watched mesmerized for a few minutes and then left them as quickly as I found them.
Recrossing Redwood Creek, I stepped back onto the Tall Trees loop. Even before I saw the blow down, I’d decided to walk loops but change my direction each time (as things look totally different seeing the same landscape from a new direction.) The fallen tree would just be my turn around point.
And that was it. It’s what I did for the rest of the day and evening. I’d make my way “around” always turning around at the fall, back and forth. Every so often, I’d take the spur trail back to camp to snack, hydrate, or just sit in the warm sand. That was my day. And my day was wonderful. Sleep came easy once again.
Day 3
Camp just north of Tall Trees north to Redwood Creek Trailhead then road walk/levy walk to car.
11 miles
There was a lot more dew on my quilt and tent this morning. As I set it out to dry in preparation for my 6 mile walk back to the Horse Trail split where I planned to camp for the night on another gravel bar, it occurred to me that the dry time would take a while. I started thinking about the next day and getting in all the hikes I wanted. It was now 8 am. That’s when I decided to hike out tonight instead of tomorrow. At first, my plan was to go back the same way I came. But then a new idea started brewing. Making the trip into more of a loop. I’d hike back to the Horse Trail split but continue on Redwood Creek Trail to the trail-head and then walk the road to twin, hop on the levy and walk back to the horse camp and car. The only tricky part might be crossing the creek downstream where the flow would be higher after picking up the runoff from many streams between here and there. But... kinda rather see something new. So... I dried things out (over about an hour), had some breakfast and I was off.
Everything went as planned. The hike was a gradual downhill which got warmer the later the day got. The crossing wasn’t difficult and the road walk was interesting too.
Back at my car, I used the restroom I was shown when I parked. And that’s when I saw it. A coin operated shower. And I had quarters. Done deal. And just like that I was clean.
I drove back to the Visitor Center to ask a few more questions.
Then drove an hour north to the Hiouchi Visitor Center in Jedediah Smith State Park where another ranger gave me great info about my time in that park.
I used their picnic area to spread out my gear and food and do a clean out. The plan from here on (just a plan) was car camping and day hiking.
Tonight I’d be sleeping in a small free Forest Service campground just east of the park. Not wanting to set up the tent, I’m “car camping” and sleeping in my Honda Pilot.
Plans tomorrow are for more miles in this beautiful park.
Day 4
Day hikes
12.5 miles
Not a great night sleep at free Sand Camp while sleeping in the car. Have moved tonight to more free camping. This time at Flint Ridge. It’s a walk-in campground with 8 sites. No reservations and permit at any of the visitor centers (VC) on the day of arrival. I’ve got site #4 for three nights. Not sure if I’ll stay 3 but I’ve got it.
Spent the day on trail. First on the Mill Creek Trail connected to the Hatton Trail. The out and back was about 7 miles. I skipped a part of the Mill Creek that I might do in the next few days.
The scenery was amazing. So very different than the Redwood Creek area. The trees seemed to be smaller at the base but no less tall. Actually, it was in 1998 that the Grove of Titans was discovered by explorers Steve Sillett and Michale Taylor. The grove includes the coast redwood with the widest branch and 3 of the 10 tallest trees on earth. It was kept a secret until the GPS location was leaked on the internet. Now, looky-loos from all over come with their selfie sticks to take their social media pics. Unfortunately, these trees are off trail and people have severely damaged the ecosystem as they trounce off into the woods to find the fabled giants. There are “stay on the trail” signs everywhere in one 1/8 mile section almost bringing more attention to it than necessary. I got lucky as they are closing this trail for a good chunk of time very soon in an effort to build new trails to this enormous grove.
The hike got very hot as I neared the Klamath River. The way back was much cooler back in Mill Creek Canyon. Just before I turned back into the canyon I saw a few people in kayaks out on the water. Hmmmm.
Getting back to the car I wasn’t sure what to do next but did know I needed to stop by the VC to get a camping permit for Flint Ridge. While there, I talked to the same ranger I spoke with the day before. I got my permit and then asked about a beach hike and about kayaking. She handed me a pamphlet for a local company that she “highly recommended.”
I drove about 5 minutes to get cell service and left them a message.
Then I decided I would start towards the campsite about 45 minutes away and try the beach hike she told me about. I think she maybe drew the directions wrong and I ended up on a 6 mile out and back hike just off the Coastal Trail. It was beautiful. No old growth but plenty of redwoods on one side and the ocean on the other. Amazing.
Pulled into the back of Trees of Mystery (an dd tourist trap for sure) and set up dinner at one of their empty picnic tables. It was nice to reorganize, clean up and eat at a picnic table on lush grass in the shade of the towering redwoods. As I finished I turned my phone on and found a text about kayaking tomorrow. I didn’t have service there but as I drove to the campground my phone got the service needed to make a call. After talking to “Adam” on the phone... I was good to go for full day through the Smith River Gorge through class 2 and 3 rapids. I was excited to get a guide that was going to teach me some river water skills. Although I’ve kayaked in lakes and the ocean many times, this will be my first in a river and I’m super excited! Made my way to Flint. Parked. Walked the 1/4 mile up and in. I got the last of the 8 sites and it’s perfect.
Tomorrow will be a brand new adventure!!
Day 5
South Fork River Day
7 miles
Today started with a sky that began to lighten up around 5:30 am. I didn’t need to be at the meeting spot for the river trip till 9 but I was ready to move.
Left the tent and sleeping bag and headed back to the car and straight back to my dinner spot which would now be my breakfast spot. After filling myself up and straightening out my gear for the day, I headed to the store on 199 to meet up with Adam, owner of Redwood Rides. He and my guide, Joe showed up a few minutes after I did. We chatted and then I followed them to the take out point where Joe and I left our cars and hopped into Adam’s van. After driving about 15 minutes we hopped out and climbed down a very steep and rocky embankment to the river’s edge. In front of me was “Surprise Falls, ” a class 3 rapid that would be the most technical of the day. The guys wanted to look at the flows and also walk me through running it. They explained the flow of the water as well as the rocks I could see and rocks I couldn’t as well as what to do if I got pushed into the rock wall and what to do if I got bounced out of the boat. It was a lot of information. And I was surprised that instead of being a bit freaked out ...instead I was pumped.
We drove for another 20 minutes or so to the put in. Adam and Joe inflated the enormous kayaks and as I took some dry bags, they shouldered the boats. We walked down a 100 yard trail to the water and laid everything out. After some basics in safety, Adam was gone and Joe and I were gliding our boats into the South Fork of the Smith River.
This river flows from the Klamath Mountains to the Pacific Ocean all in Del Norte County. The 7 mile section we would be running was directly through the middle of a beautiful gorge.
Within the first 15 minutes a river otter was making a path for us up ahead. Crawdads and cutthroat darted around under us. And suddenly the first set of rapids was just ahead. Joe showed me the line we would take through the class 2 and we were off.
I learned quickly that, the majority of the time, less paddling is better. This first set I over-paddled a bit and subsequently turned the boat to an angle that, for a second, freaked me out a bit. It would be my last freak out of the day. The rest of the day, through class 1, 2 and 3 rapids. I trusted the boat. I allowed myself to move with the water. And instead of paddling, used my paddle to make small adjustments as I zipped past rocks, pushed through eddies, followed Joe river left and river right and stayed present through each and every set of rapids. It was amazing. Surprise Falls was no surprise since we had checked it out earlier. The largest rapid of the day proved to be a ton of fun.
All in all a great way to spend the day.
We ended at about 3 pm and I’d planned to take another hike. But between being pretty worn out and having super dry and cracked feet from being in so much water on this trip, I decided to instead drive to an overlook I’d wanted to hit and just hang out. It’s been a terrific afternoon and I’m ready to make some dinner before heading back to camp.
Not sure about tomorrow as it’s really gonna depend on my feet.
Day 6
Boy Scout Tree Trail, Stout Grove trail, Whalehead Beach OR.
10 miles
Woke up to pretty good feeling feet and headed directly to the Boy Scout Trail in Jedediah Smith State Park. The out and back ended up being about 6 miles in total. I got to the trail-head at about 7 am and three were no other cars present. I had the place to myself. I’d been excited to do this trail and a section of it ended up being one of my favorites of the trip. The trail started through a jungle-like lowland redwood forest before moving into a dark and lush mixed-species woodland dominated by lichen-draped spruce trees. And then what I’d been waiting for. A section where the redwoods are sparse. They grow in isolation or in small groups of two or three. The are not immense ...but super impressive because the unusually open canopy in sections lets you see the tops of the trees which in most places you just cannot do.
Once back at the car, I drove the road to the Stout Grove. There was a retired volunteer at the trail-head with maps and information. We chatted for a bit before I walked onto the trail. I was pleasantly surprised that there weren't a lot of people on the trail. It was a remarkably hushed environment. Sounds were damped out by the thick, spongy layer of needles on the ground. It wasn’t very far from a campground and VC but it was silent.
Back at the trail-head, I sat town to talk to the volunteer a bit more. He lived in Brookings OR and suggested that I drive the 45 minutes up to the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor. He told me I could find beaches that went on forever and had no one on them. Sounded good to me!
I ended up at Whaleshead Beach. And just like he had told me...once I walked about 100 yards past the people near the parking lot...I had the beach to myself. I walked for about a mile and set up my chair before taking a long swim in the water. I walked the rest of the beach that afternoon and was back at Flint Ridge by 5 pm. My plan was to sleep till midnight and then pack up and hit the road to be home by about 8 am. Great plan...but the sleep didn’t come till almost 10 pm. The 7 hour drive home that night was a tough one but worth it. I got home right when I wanted to be home.
This trip was a backup plan for a back up plan. My original trip had been to the Sierra High Route outside Bishop. With a blast of 30+ feet of snow...there was just no way to do that trip and hike the kind of miles I wanted to put in on a daily basis. The back-up to that trip was part of the Big Foot Trail. A 360 mile trail starting in Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness and ending near Crescent City, CA. But again...way too much snow on the section through the Trinity Alps that I’d planned to hike. This trip was the 3rd option. An option I was a bit bummed about. But in the end...an option that opened my eyes and mind to a brand new option for other trips in the future.
I’ll be back for sure...