,Saddlebag Lake Trailhead-Hoover Wilderness
Day 1
4.5 miles
Isabela and I got back on the trail today after a one year break. We decided this would be a base camp and day hike trip.
I found Saddlebag Lake last winter and it looked like a perfect spot to backpack in about 5 miles and then have some amazing day hike opportunities.
Little did I know then that this would be a 200% snow pack year! On July 4th Saddlebag, and all of the other lakes in the 20 Lakes Basin were still frozen over! Our trip got pushed back about 3 weeks due to Isabela getting strep and another planned trip to CO to see family. This "pushing back" allowed the sun to do its job and melt most of the ice on the lakes. This made the trip possible once again.
After about a 4 hour drive we got out back-country permit at the Mono Lake Visitor Center. From there... a quick stop at the famous Whoa Nellie Deli at the base of Tioga Pass. Then it was a short 20 minute trip to the closed Saddlebag Resort and Trailhead. The resort has been for sale for quite a few years and had some pretty serious damage from the heavy snow this year. Because of the damage, the resort didn't open this season. All the cars in the parking area were day hikers and backpackers. And...since it was Sunday, most were headed out.
We hit the trail just before noon and hiked the east side of the lake due to some lingering and sketchy snow fields on the west. It was about two miles from one side of the lake to the other. We saw quite a few day hikers and a few backpackers headed out and back to the trail-head.
At the far end of the lake we got a view of Gemstone Lake to our southwest. Walking on we crossed many small creeks. There was so much snow left that there was water everywhere. Continuing on we passed between Wasco and Golden Lakes. One more beautiful then the next.
Mount Conness and North Peak dominated the skyline to our northwest as big puffy cumulonimbus clouds floated by, some looking quite menacing. As we came to the south end of Steelhead Lake it was time to leave the trail. We would be hiking another half mile due west to a body of water called Cascade Lake. The half mile had just about everything: scree, mud, snow, ice, creeks, bare granite and scrambles. All under a threatening sky and the watchful eye of 11,118 ft North Peak.
At last we arrived at the lake. Part was still frozen over. We found the "perfect" camp site and started to set up. As we were getting the fly on the tent the thunder started to boom! We got ourselves all the gear inside just as the sky opened up. Typical mountain afternoon thunderstorm that lasted about 45 minutes. At which point I went outside to set up my poncho/tarp for us to sit under if it started raining again. Which it did. As I was setting up the tarp.
It was a refreshing soak as I finished it up and Isabela joined me underneath. We hydrated and snacked as it rained some more. About 4 pm the sky cleared and we were free to wander.
We got a lay of the land and then set up dinner. After eating, we did what I so enjoyed on the PCT. We each plugged into a podcast and just wandered around for about an hour till dark. Just as we were getting ready to enter the tent, Isabela saw a full moon peeking over a snowfield near our tent. We spent another 15 minute or so taking in the beauty before turning in.
8/7/17
Day 2
5 mile day hike
Isabela slept in till about 9 today and enjoyed every minute of it. After breakfast we packed up for our day hike. We were planning to try to do the loop that hits many more lakes today. But. Snow and water kept us on our toes.
We started out waking back to and around Steelhead Lake. As we rounded a bend we came to the outlet of the lake. Not only was the outlet raging, but on the other side was a snow crossing at about 25 degrees. A bit too steep for our liking. So we began our off trail adventure that would last most of the day.
We hiked up and over a ridge trying to get down to Excelsior Lake. It was a no go. So we continued up and down the ridges till we got a view of Shamrock Lake. We tried to get down to the shore on the west side but again were foiled. A long and somewhat steep snow field led to the southern shore. After some discussion we went for it and were so glad we did. We had the lake to ourselves and amazing views. Isabela did some water colors while I explored the shores. At one point, a wall of snow broke lose on the northwestern end of the lake and huge blocks of snow rattled down the mountain.
After some lunch it was time to head out. We climbed out a steeper way to try to get to a cutoff trail. Although we never found the trail we did find Z Lake, Golden Lake, a cute little mouse, a beautiful doe, many small "lakes" from all the snow and run off, and beautiful views.
Getting back down to the trail we came in on yesterday, we decided to go clockwise around Wasco Lake to take a different way back to our camp. It was beautiful and gave us many new views.
Back at camp we read, painted, snacked etc...
We packed a kite in and had lots of fun getting it into the air and keeping it in the air for any length of time. The winds in the basin we were camped in seemed to change direction every 5 to 10 minutes.
A high point of the early evening came when we heard coyote yips from both the upper reaches of North Peak and down about a half a mile north. I sat Isabela on a rock and mentioned we should sit very still and try to find the location of the pup on the mountain. About half the mountain was covered in snow and I half jokingly said that we really didn't have a chance of seeing it unless it was in the snow. Not minutes later, we spotted the put sprinting across a massive snow field. We were able to sit and follow him for almost a half mile. He ran almost constantly, stopping only a couple times and standing completely still. He ran across more snow fields, creeks, green pastures and then down to the lake and across the snow berm that fell into the lake for another couple hundred yards. At one point it looked like he might have hopped in the water or into some sheet ice on the lake. Finally, we saw him make his way up a moderately slopped waterfall before we lost him. It was one of those once in a lifetime experiences that I'll never forget.
Dinner and an evening walk before bed. Looks like was have decided to hike out tomorrow at some point and head straight to the Burger Barn in Bridgeport...yummm.
8/8/17
Day 3
4.5 miles
Woke to a crystal clear sky and TONS of mosquitoes. We had had some bugs over the last couple days but nothing like this morning. It made packing up a bit more challenging. By 9 am we were back on the trail and immediately the bugs got better. Passed a woman and her two kids in bug nets about halfway back. Mom asked if the bugs had been this bad and told us they had gotten in early the evening before and just set up their tent for the night. A few minutes later, we passed a guy with skis and boots strapped to his backpack for some "First week of August skiing." Oh, what a winter it was!
The rest of the hike we only saw a few day hikers until close to the trail-head. It was a beautiful hike back and a place I will surely come back to explore more in the future!
The Burger Barn in Bridgeport was as solid as ever. The owner, one of the nicest people you will ever meet, had Isabela's Western Bacon Cheese Burger with fries and my Nacho Supreme ready in minutes. Once finished, we got milkshakes. Best end-of-backpacking food stop on earth!
Day 1
4.5 miles
Isabela and I got back on the trail today after a one year break. We decided this would be a base camp and day hike trip.
I found Saddlebag Lake last winter and it looked like a perfect spot to backpack in about 5 miles and then have some amazing day hike opportunities.
Little did I know then that this would be a 200% snow pack year! On July 4th Saddlebag, and all of the other lakes in the 20 Lakes Basin were still frozen over! Our trip got pushed back about 3 weeks due to Isabela getting strep and another planned trip to CO to see family. This "pushing back" allowed the sun to do its job and melt most of the ice on the lakes. This made the trip possible once again.
After about a 4 hour drive we got out back-country permit at the Mono Lake Visitor Center. From there... a quick stop at the famous Whoa Nellie Deli at the base of Tioga Pass. Then it was a short 20 minute trip to the closed Saddlebag Resort and Trailhead. The resort has been for sale for quite a few years and had some pretty serious damage from the heavy snow this year. Because of the damage, the resort didn't open this season. All the cars in the parking area were day hikers and backpackers. And...since it was Sunday, most were headed out.
We hit the trail just before noon and hiked the east side of the lake due to some lingering and sketchy snow fields on the west. It was about two miles from one side of the lake to the other. We saw quite a few day hikers and a few backpackers headed out and back to the trail-head.
At the far end of the lake we got a view of Gemstone Lake to our southwest. Walking on we crossed many small creeks. There was so much snow left that there was water everywhere. Continuing on we passed between Wasco and Golden Lakes. One more beautiful then the next.
Mount Conness and North Peak dominated the skyline to our northwest as big puffy cumulonimbus clouds floated by, some looking quite menacing. As we came to the south end of Steelhead Lake it was time to leave the trail. We would be hiking another half mile due west to a body of water called Cascade Lake. The half mile had just about everything: scree, mud, snow, ice, creeks, bare granite and scrambles. All under a threatening sky and the watchful eye of 11,118 ft North Peak.
At last we arrived at the lake. Part was still frozen over. We found the "perfect" camp site and started to set up. As we were getting the fly on the tent the thunder started to boom! We got ourselves all the gear inside just as the sky opened up. Typical mountain afternoon thunderstorm that lasted about 45 minutes. At which point I went outside to set up my poncho/tarp for us to sit under if it started raining again. Which it did. As I was setting up the tarp.
It was a refreshing soak as I finished it up and Isabela joined me underneath. We hydrated and snacked as it rained some more. About 4 pm the sky cleared and we were free to wander.
We got a lay of the land and then set up dinner. After eating, we did what I so enjoyed on the PCT. We each plugged into a podcast and just wandered around for about an hour till dark. Just as we were getting ready to enter the tent, Isabela saw a full moon peeking over a snowfield near our tent. We spent another 15 minute or so taking in the beauty before turning in.
8/7/17
Day 2
5 mile day hike
Isabela slept in till about 9 today and enjoyed every minute of it. After breakfast we packed up for our day hike. We were planning to try to do the loop that hits many more lakes today. But. Snow and water kept us on our toes.
We started out waking back to and around Steelhead Lake. As we rounded a bend we came to the outlet of the lake. Not only was the outlet raging, but on the other side was a snow crossing at about 25 degrees. A bit too steep for our liking. So we began our off trail adventure that would last most of the day.
We hiked up and over a ridge trying to get down to Excelsior Lake. It was a no go. So we continued up and down the ridges till we got a view of Shamrock Lake. We tried to get down to the shore on the west side but again were foiled. A long and somewhat steep snow field led to the southern shore. After some discussion we went for it and were so glad we did. We had the lake to ourselves and amazing views. Isabela did some water colors while I explored the shores. At one point, a wall of snow broke lose on the northwestern end of the lake and huge blocks of snow rattled down the mountain.
After some lunch it was time to head out. We climbed out a steeper way to try to get to a cutoff trail. Although we never found the trail we did find Z Lake, Golden Lake, a cute little mouse, a beautiful doe, many small "lakes" from all the snow and run off, and beautiful views.
Getting back down to the trail we came in on yesterday, we decided to go clockwise around Wasco Lake to take a different way back to our camp. It was beautiful and gave us many new views.
Back at camp we read, painted, snacked etc...
We packed a kite in and had lots of fun getting it into the air and keeping it in the air for any length of time. The winds in the basin we were camped in seemed to change direction every 5 to 10 minutes.
A high point of the early evening came when we heard coyote yips from both the upper reaches of North Peak and down about a half a mile north. I sat Isabela on a rock and mentioned we should sit very still and try to find the location of the pup on the mountain. About half the mountain was covered in snow and I half jokingly said that we really didn't have a chance of seeing it unless it was in the snow. Not minutes later, we spotted the put sprinting across a massive snow field. We were able to sit and follow him for almost a half mile. He ran almost constantly, stopping only a couple times and standing completely still. He ran across more snow fields, creeks, green pastures and then down to the lake and across the snow berm that fell into the lake for another couple hundred yards. At one point it looked like he might have hopped in the water or into some sheet ice on the lake. Finally, we saw him make his way up a moderately slopped waterfall before we lost him. It was one of those once in a lifetime experiences that I'll never forget.
Dinner and an evening walk before bed. Looks like was have decided to hike out tomorrow at some point and head straight to the Burger Barn in Bridgeport...yummm.
8/8/17
Day 3
4.5 miles
Woke to a crystal clear sky and TONS of mosquitoes. We had had some bugs over the last couple days but nothing like this morning. It made packing up a bit more challenging. By 9 am we were back on the trail and immediately the bugs got better. Passed a woman and her two kids in bug nets about halfway back. Mom asked if the bugs had been this bad and told us they had gotten in early the evening before and just set up their tent for the night. A few minutes later, we passed a guy with skis and boots strapped to his backpack for some "First week of August skiing." Oh, what a winter it was!
The rest of the hike we only saw a few day hikers until close to the trail-head. It was a beautiful hike back and a place I will surely come back to explore more in the future!
The Burger Barn in Bridgeport was as solid as ever. The owner, one of the nicest people you will ever meet, had Isabela's Western Bacon Cheese Burger with fries and my Nacho Supreme ready in minutes. Once finished, we got milkshakes. Best end-of-backpacking food stop on earth!