Introduction
I have a group of friends that I’ve fallen in with in a very kismet kind of way. We are four people with very different backgrounds and experiences. We have very different careers, families, customs and interests. With all of our differences we are on the exact same plane in regards to a single topic every time.
The power of the backcountry.
The sense of awe that we each gain in various ways each and every time we immerse ourselves in nature. The feeling of freedom we get when we walk into the wilderness with everything we need on our backs. The simplicity. And the feeling we have each and every night as we lay down under the stars. It’s a form of surrender. Surrender to the heavens above and the earth below. There’s nothing else like it. We need it. We need it like a drug. A drug that brings balance. Reflection. A drug that puts things into perspective. Reminds us of what’s truly important in our lives. Let’s us hit the reset button so when we return to the frontcountry we are better. Better partners. Better parents. Better friends. Better employees and employers. Better men.
Our trip this year together will be in Wyoming. We will head to Grand Teton National Park to attempt the 40+ mile Teton Crest Trail, or TCT for short. We have what looks like a good weather window right between two storms. We shall see if that holds. We will see places on each of our bucket lists for years. Places we’ve read about, seen pictures of, read others journals about, and even peeked at Google Earth for inspiration.
Here. We. Go.
Day #1
Daily Miles-11.97
Total Miles-11.97
Elevation Gained-3938 ft.
Elevation Lost-2481 ft.
A casual morning with breakfast in Victor at our AirBnB and then a drive to the trailhead. A slow start for our group but I felt good both mentally and physically. It was a gift to be able to turn my phone off and disconnect after over a month of nonstop working. I’ve earned this and won’t feel the least bit guilty for taking time to recharge. To get the passion back for doing the good work I try to do each and every day. For the drive to be a better man.
It was a bit of a rollercoaster today with ups and downs all the way to Phillips Pass at 8932 ft. and then well beyond and higher.
We arrived at the trailhead, at 7753 ft., at about noon seeing only 3 others in the 5+ miles that carried us to our first pass. As we crossed from one wilderness area to another, still making our way to Grand Teton NP, we wondered why a pass led to more uphill. Before immediately “summiting” the pass, we climbed yet another 500 feet until finally another series of rollercoaster type ups and downs.
At about 1:15 we took another break on a ledge with a beautiful overlook and rested while a procession of beautiful butterflies made their way south as if they were following the same trail as us. They fluttered by both solo as well as in groups of up to 4 or 5s. It was both beautiful and relaxing which created a true sense of being in the moment. I took it all in as we sat and visited with each other.
Immediately upon starting north again we dropped down a very steep loose trail before settling back into more ups and downs through thick forests at times and open expansive views at other times. A final climb (we thought) led us to an unnamed pass, at 9085 ft. where we gathered up and rested again.
As a solo hiker, I truly enjoy this group. We hike together at times, in pairs at times and solo other times. It’s truly the best of all worlds. It’s a “go with the flow” kind of thing where we each “hike our own hike” while at the same time enjoy the shared experiences.
As we joined another trail we began a relatively easy section which lulled me into a rhythm and I really didn’t notice that we had started going uphill. What I did notice was the small notch that we’d come to. The trail dropped precipitously to a talus crossing before climbing the other side at almost twice the elevation that I stood presently.
The drop was long and steep but beautiful as it wound through a fragrant forest of lodgepole. The bottom brought a welcome surprise, crystal clear ice cold water. The first we had seen in miles. I drank my fill and started climbing. It didn’t take very long to arrive at Marion Lake. It's emerald green color was amazing in the afternoon light.
We set up camp, filtered water and made dinner. My setup was quite easy as I’m sleeping out tonight as I hope to every night. Laying out under the stars is my favorite way to spend my nights. After dinner, I was a bit chilly and still wanted to see more. I climbed the almost 2 miles to and from Fox Creek Pass. The early evening light had passed and I was left with hills and peaks shrouded in dusk. Arriving back at camp warm and fulfilled, I was ready for a good night sleep.
Day #2
Daily Miles-4.31
Total Miles-16.28
Elevation Gained-836 ft.
Elevation Lost-639 ft.
Day Hike Day 2
Daily Miles-5.58
Total Miles-21.86
Elevation Gained-1226 ft.
Elevation Lost-1229 ft.
A lazy late morning. Slept in and moved slowly this morning. We had coffee and some breakfast by the lake and then packed up. There was talk of swimming but no one pulled the trigger. For me, my ankles are taped and I didn’t want to hassle with maybe re-taping them.
Back up Fox Creek Pass and then a trail with big views until we stepped onto Death Canyon Shelf. Only about 150 yards wide, this shelf runs about 1.5 miles directly above Death Canyon. Our goal was to find the allusive water sources and then a good camp. It wasn’t difficult and in no time we were set up.
I wanted to see more so I ventured off on my own. I headed north on the TCT up to Mount Meek Pass. From there I decided to climb Mount Meek but when I arrived at the base, not only did I decide not to take the chance, but spied a route up an inclined mesa between Death Canyon and another unnamed canyon just to the north. The views were amazing. And I hiked out to a pinnacle that looked out over both canyons. What a view! While sitting on the completely silent top, I suddenly heard what sounded like a glider flying directly above my head. When I looked up I saw a Peregrine falcon in freefall at about a 45° angle going what must’ve been over 100 miles an hour. This bird would follow me and investigate me for the next 30 minutes. It was surreal.
Not long afterwards, as I was continuing along the ridge towards camp, I passed a large fox den reminiscent of the numerous wolf dens that I came across in the Brooks Range last summer. There were multiple holes in a sandy mound covered with long wavy grass. I made a quick circle around it but saw no signs of life or of recent meals.
The hike back was all off trail and continued along the edge of the shelf looking down into Death Canyon and directly ahead of me, the shelf that I would call home.
Day #3
Daily Miles-12.62
Total Miles-34.48
Elevation Gained-2261 ft.
Elevation Lost-3350 ft.
Woke up many times last night to very smoky conditions. A couple times the smoke was so thick that it completely blocked out the stars and moon. Woke up for good to an orange sun and very hazy conditions. We got going around 9:30 and the wind picked up immediately. Mount Meek Pass, at about 9726, was our first climb. I’d done this yesterday so it was another easy up. Here we met Stripes, another hiker. She was hiking some of the crest and forming a loop with trails below. She’d also recently hiked the Tahoe Rim Trail and lives not far from me. We visited a bit and hiked on.
From there it was a short walk to Sheep Steps, a steep but stunning downhill into the wonder of Alaska Basin. From this point on to our campsite, I’d be constantly reminded of my epic trip to AK last summer. The colors, topography and terrain all felt very familiar.
The trail descended into a valley that looked like it had been painted by an artist. One of the boys commented that the haze gave it a look out of an 1800s oil painting. We descended into a basin with fall colors on display in between granite slabs and dark green lodgepole. Suddenly I was at the largest of the eight Basin Lakes. The boys were a ways back. A swim was in order for sure. The perfect diving rock beckoned and in no time I was submerged. As I dried off, I was joined by the group. We had some snacks and watched the clouds blow through at unimaginable speeds above. We all made sure our rain gear was handy. We got going not wanting to be trapped up high on the next pass with the possibility of lightning.
Climbing out of the bottom of the basin led us to Sunset Lake where we gathered back up, chatted for a few and continued moving north to stay warm in the wind.
Hurricane Pass was our next goal. It didn’t disappoint. The climb was extremely windy. To keep moving was highly necessary. At the top the wind was blowing, well, like a Hurricane. It didn’t disappoint. As we crested 10,500 feet we looked directly across a valley in full fall colors in all their glory. From right to left we gazed upon South Teton, Middle Teton and Grand Teton. It was spectacular. I stayed for about 15 minutes and let the boys pass me by. I caught them as we dropped into South Fork Cascade Canyon. And as we did, the wind completely died. It went from sounding and feeling like a hurricane to still and silent. It wouldn’t last more than about 10 minutes, but the winds were never as strong again. We passed directly next to and then under Schoolroom Glacier before starting down. With canyon walls on either side of us we wove through stunted lodgepole, small bogs, avalanche flattened stretches always with the roar of the creek on our right. A series of waterfalls fell from the Tetons as well. Although it was a perfect environment and terrain for Grizzly and Moose, we saw neither.
We made our way to a beautiful camp under a dazzling waterfall. Another epic day on the TCT.
Day #4
Daily Miles-3.61
Total Miles-38.09
Elevation Gained-997 ft.
Elevation Lost-594 ft.
Daly Hike - .87
Total Miles-38.96
Elevation Gained-572
Elevation Lost-572
Day Hike-4.46
Total Miles-43.42
Elevation Gained-644 ft.
Elevation Lost-644 ft.
A short day can be long in experience.
This morning was a cold one. I slept in my tent last night because of the wind, but it was the cold that would have made sleeping out most difficult. The water in my BeFree filter was an icy mess. And when Stripes came by for a cup of coffee, she shared that it had been 27 degrees the night before. I made a pretty speedy go of it packing up to hit the trail and find some sun. Once found, it was fabulous. I sat about 25 feet above the trail looking out on a lodgepole sparsely filled meadow. The air was still cold but the sun poured warmth into me. As I gazed out, the bright sun caught thousands of insects floating in every direction. As they did, small birds moved out of the trees for moments at a time, only to pluck a single insect out the air and then find the new closest tree to picnic in. This all taking place in a deep canyon filled with early morning colors.
When the boys arrived we continued down the trail until the junction to Cascade Canyon. It was here in July of 2003, that Paula and I made the turn into Cascade Canyon. We had already hiked over 15 miles on our day hike and now had to hike the last 5 as quickly as we could so that we could catch the last Jenny Lake Ferry and not have to hike another 2.4 miles to the car. Today, we walked past that turn and stayed on the TCT. From here on out, I’ve been on this trail. Eighteen years does a lot to memory. I remember this next 2.7 mile section to be amazing, but today it surpassed even that. The section started in a deep narrow canyon filled from side to side with conifers and Cascade Creek roaring through the middle. Next, the canyon opened up a bit with fever trees and more wide open fall colors in full force. The creek now splits into various smaller and calmer tributaries. We passed up campsites wanting one closer to the end of this camping section. Closer to Solitude Lake and the start of our last pass of the trip for the next morning.
The final section of the canyon was much wider and cut over and over again by rock slides leaving fields of granite tallus. The NPS had graciously removed enough of this rock for a hiker to pleasantly move from one side of each slide to the other. This section had wide open and sweeping views of the canyon. A canyon, now 2 to 3 times as wide as earlier.
We checked a couple more campsites but neither fit our group size needs. We knew there was just one site left. The backcountry here has “camping zones.” Some have individually marked sites. A camper, or group of campers, must have a permit to stay in one of these sites. All unused sites are open, but you can only stay at a designated site. Other “camping zones” have the same rule, but add in that dispersed camping is also allowed if you can find a spot that meets all backcountry camping regulations. There were no obvious dispersed possibilities for a group of 4 and we moved up the canyon to the last spot. What a spot it was. It offered little wind protection but we would luckily have better conditions than yesterday and also a grassy area where tent stakes not only went in the ground but also, thankfully, held well. We set up a stunning camp near the center and near the head of North Cascade Canyon. We had some lunch and I decided to take a walk. I climbed the wall on the opposite side of the canyon. At first I climbed high enough that our tents were dots and the boys were specks. Climbing still higher I could spot the waterfall we camped at last night coming from the middle of Grand Teton itself at 13,770 feet high. And still higher I could see part of, and then all of, Lake Solitude where we would head for the afternoon and evening when I returned. Sitting and enjoying the view I pondered climbing the last 150 or so feet to the ridge. I decided not to, only to hear when I got back that at that very point, I was only about 50 feet from the trail we’d be on in the morning leading to our last climb, Paintbrush Divide at about 10,600 ft.
Upon my return to camp, we prepared for the short walk to Lake Solitude. We packed food, stoves and warm clothes. We hoped to swim, have dinner, and watch the evening colors. We did all of those things. The swim was shocking, cleansing and rejuvenating. The food was fine, as frontcountry food is pulling at stomachs. Our bellies might be ready for town food, but our mindsets are not. Another few days would be wonderful, but we head out tomorrow. We met and visited with a fun group of self described “techies”’all the way from just outside Raleigh, North Carolina. Jeff and I took a short walk around to the other side of the lake and deeper into the canyon’s head wall. We hoped and expected to see some animals in the late afternoon and early evening, but wildlife had all but eluded us today. We returned back to camp in time to see a 3/4 moon rising first over the eastern canyon wall, then over Mount Owen, then Grand Teton and finally over Teepe Tower before disappearing back over the canyon’s western wall.
It was truly a spectacular day.
Day #5
Daily Miles-11.68
Total Miles-55.1
Elevation Gained-2212 ft.
Elevation Lost-4076 ft.
We woke up at 6am to get an early start to the day. A quick pack up in the dark followed by an even quicker snack. About 300 feet back up to Lake Solitude and then the real climb began. Watching the first rays of sun hit Grand Teton as we climbed the 2000 ft pleasantly graded path towards Paintbrush Divide was a spectacular way to spend our last morning on the trail. The lighting changed every few moments as did the intensity of the wind gusts. At about 10250 ft. a false summit fooled us into a sense of accomplishment only to discover that we had about another 350 ft to climb.
Not long after light hail began to pelt me. Because it was small, it didn’t hurt. Because it was frozen, I wasn’t getting wet. Looking up, I found that this “storm” was coming from a single cloud and although it was large, behind it was blue sky. No need to stop and put on rain gear now. We knew a storm was coming in, but also knew that that the forecast was for it to hit later in the afternoon. At least that was the forecast a few days ago.
The last half mile was very reminiscent of ridges in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. As I climbed that last half mile I was reminded of both Franconia Ridge and the ascent from Lake of the Clouds to the top of Mt. Washington. I’d sustained winds of over 100 mph the day I’d climbed Mt Washington 21 years ago.
I continued climbing and passed the wooden sign for Paintbrush Divide. Looking left, I found that I still had about 50 yards till I would be able to drop off the other side.
Today’s winds over Paintbrush Divide wouldn’t hit Mt. Washington mark, but they’d be enough to necessitate walking at an angle of about 60% in order to lean into the wind to prevent being pushed over. And “being pushed over” would have meant falling over 300 ft straight down the rocky slope below.
It was a short crossing, at about half a football field, that got the adrenaline going for sure.
The wind died immediately after dropping off the ridge. It went from a freight train all around me as well as inside my head to close to pure silence. The only sound left was a hint of a whistle of the wind through two lonely stunted pines on the ridge. The trail started dropping immediately. The loose rock sliding under my feet with every step. And then, suddenly, the trail was gone. It looked like a recent rockslide had obliterated the rocky path. Nothing was left except small piles of rocks (carins) set up for a hiker to follow. This precipitous stretch lasted only about 50-75 yards but extreme care needed to be taken with foot fall and every sliding step. One step’s length turned into 2 or 3 as a single foot step would land and slide until I was able to come to a controlled stop. Coming to the end of this section was wonderful. Unfortunately, the end of this section brought me further away from the ridge which allowed the wind to begin picking up once again. It was in no way as strong, but it was back. At about 9885 ft. I found a crystal clear tarn and decided it was time for a break and some hot coffee. By this point the wind had thankfully turned into a breeze. As I got my stove out, I looked up at the ridge I’d come from to see the boys making their own crossing. I knew exactly what they were facing and the emotions it was stirring. I threw them some verbal and emotional positivity as they finished their crossing and dropped out of my view.
Coffee time. Make it a double. And add in some Walkers Vanilla Shortbread cookies for good order. I was going to enjoy this break and my time. A few hikers passed me on their way up to the Divide and we exchanged short greetings.
I’ve come to appreciate having my own experiences in the backcountry. I don’t ask others about conditions ahead and, unless asked, I try not to share about where I’ve been. Everyone has their own lens they look through. For some, the Divide would be harrowing. Others would find it purely exhilarating. Each would have their own adventure up there as well as during every step of their hike. No one needed my recitation of my experience before having their own. My personal experience was built on a foundation of tens of thousands of miles in the backcountry over 45 years. It was built on mistakes I’ve made, my own personal strengths as well as my own fears. It was built on who I am. And everyone out here deserved to have their own experiences as well. This is why I’m all about short greetings, pleasantries, and words of encouragement.
About 40 minutes later, the boys arrived and took a break with me. We shared our own experiences on the ridge and enjoyed our time discussing our shared experiences. It’s one of the things I truly love about hiking with others. No matter how eloquently one journals about an event, no one who hasn’t shared that same experience in the same time and place can truly appreciate the details and nuances that took place.
The remaining 7 or so downhill miles were filled with conversation, a hyper focus while looking for wildlife, feet that were getting more sore with each step, a burning hunger for town food, and a sadness that a trip that felt like it had just started, was coming to an end.
We got to String Lake in no time. All I wanted was a swim. I ducked behind some trees, changed into my swim trunks and dove into the lake. Swimming out into the lake and looking up at Grand Teton was a beautiful way to end an amazing adventure.
The rest is short and sweet. Food, conversation, showers at our AirBnB, more food, more showers, sleep, more food, some touristy driving around looking for wildlife and fall colors, more food and finally a shuttle to the airport and flights home.
An epilogue to this story would share that snow fell in the high country not only the afternoon that we hit the trailhead, but on and off all day the following day as well. Had we been one day later with our trip, we would have been caught in quite the high elevation storm and would have had to radically change our plans to safely make it out of the mountains. We truly hit a perfect weather window and couldn’t be more grateful for this.
The TCT was a success in every measure. This is a special group of friends to me. We may not see each other often, but the time we spend together in the wilderness is truly time well spent.
I have a group of friends that I’ve fallen in with in a very kismet kind of way. We are four people with very different backgrounds and experiences. We have very different careers, families, customs and interests. With all of our differences we are on the exact same plane in regards to a single topic every time.
The power of the backcountry.
The sense of awe that we each gain in various ways each and every time we immerse ourselves in nature. The feeling of freedom we get when we walk into the wilderness with everything we need on our backs. The simplicity. And the feeling we have each and every night as we lay down under the stars. It’s a form of surrender. Surrender to the heavens above and the earth below. There’s nothing else like it. We need it. We need it like a drug. A drug that brings balance. Reflection. A drug that puts things into perspective. Reminds us of what’s truly important in our lives. Let’s us hit the reset button so when we return to the frontcountry we are better. Better partners. Better parents. Better friends. Better employees and employers. Better men.
Our trip this year together will be in Wyoming. We will head to Grand Teton National Park to attempt the 40+ mile Teton Crest Trail, or TCT for short. We have what looks like a good weather window right between two storms. We shall see if that holds. We will see places on each of our bucket lists for years. Places we’ve read about, seen pictures of, read others journals about, and even peeked at Google Earth for inspiration.
Here. We. Go.
Day #1
Daily Miles-11.97
Total Miles-11.97
Elevation Gained-3938 ft.
Elevation Lost-2481 ft.
A casual morning with breakfast in Victor at our AirBnB and then a drive to the trailhead. A slow start for our group but I felt good both mentally and physically. It was a gift to be able to turn my phone off and disconnect after over a month of nonstop working. I’ve earned this and won’t feel the least bit guilty for taking time to recharge. To get the passion back for doing the good work I try to do each and every day. For the drive to be a better man.
It was a bit of a rollercoaster today with ups and downs all the way to Phillips Pass at 8932 ft. and then well beyond and higher.
We arrived at the trailhead, at 7753 ft., at about noon seeing only 3 others in the 5+ miles that carried us to our first pass. As we crossed from one wilderness area to another, still making our way to Grand Teton NP, we wondered why a pass led to more uphill. Before immediately “summiting” the pass, we climbed yet another 500 feet until finally another series of rollercoaster type ups and downs.
At about 1:15 we took another break on a ledge with a beautiful overlook and rested while a procession of beautiful butterflies made their way south as if they were following the same trail as us. They fluttered by both solo as well as in groups of up to 4 or 5s. It was both beautiful and relaxing which created a true sense of being in the moment. I took it all in as we sat and visited with each other.
Immediately upon starting north again we dropped down a very steep loose trail before settling back into more ups and downs through thick forests at times and open expansive views at other times. A final climb (we thought) led us to an unnamed pass, at 9085 ft. where we gathered up and rested again.
As a solo hiker, I truly enjoy this group. We hike together at times, in pairs at times and solo other times. It’s truly the best of all worlds. It’s a “go with the flow” kind of thing where we each “hike our own hike” while at the same time enjoy the shared experiences.
As we joined another trail we began a relatively easy section which lulled me into a rhythm and I really didn’t notice that we had started going uphill. What I did notice was the small notch that we’d come to. The trail dropped precipitously to a talus crossing before climbing the other side at almost twice the elevation that I stood presently.
The drop was long and steep but beautiful as it wound through a fragrant forest of lodgepole. The bottom brought a welcome surprise, crystal clear ice cold water. The first we had seen in miles. I drank my fill and started climbing. It didn’t take very long to arrive at Marion Lake. It's emerald green color was amazing in the afternoon light.
We set up camp, filtered water and made dinner. My setup was quite easy as I’m sleeping out tonight as I hope to every night. Laying out under the stars is my favorite way to spend my nights. After dinner, I was a bit chilly and still wanted to see more. I climbed the almost 2 miles to and from Fox Creek Pass. The early evening light had passed and I was left with hills and peaks shrouded in dusk. Arriving back at camp warm and fulfilled, I was ready for a good night sleep.
Day #2
Daily Miles-4.31
Total Miles-16.28
Elevation Gained-836 ft.
Elevation Lost-639 ft.
Day Hike Day 2
Daily Miles-5.58
Total Miles-21.86
Elevation Gained-1226 ft.
Elevation Lost-1229 ft.
A lazy late morning. Slept in and moved slowly this morning. We had coffee and some breakfast by the lake and then packed up. There was talk of swimming but no one pulled the trigger. For me, my ankles are taped and I didn’t want to hassle with maybe re-taping them.
Back up Fox Creek Pass and then a trail with big views until we stepped onto Death Canyon Shelf. Only about 150 yards wide, this shelf runs about 1.5 miles directly above Death Canyon. Our goal was to find the allusive water sources and then a good camp. It wasn’t difficult and in no time we were set up.
I wanted to see more so I ventured off on my own. I headed north on the TCT up to Mount Meek Pass. From there I decided to climb Mount Meek but when I arrived at the base, not only did I decide not to take the chance, but spied a route up an inclined mesa between Death Canyon and another unnamed canyon just to the north. The views were amazing. And I hiked out to a pinnacle that looked out over both canyons. What a view! While sitting on the completely silent top, I suddenly heard what sounded like a glider flying directly above my head. When I looked up I saw a Peregrine falcon in freefall at about a 45° angle going what must’ve been over 100 miles an hour. This bird would follow me and investigate me for the next 30 minutes. It was surreal.
Not long afterwards, as I was continuing along the ridge towards camp, I passed a large fox den reminiscent of the numerous wolf dens that I came across in the Brooks Range last summer. There were multiple holes in a sandy mound covered with long wavy grass. I made a quick circle around it but saw no signs of life or of recent meals.
The hike back was all off trail and continued along the edge of the shelf looking down into Death Canyon and directly ahead of me, the shelf that I would call home.
Day #3
Daily Miles-12.62
Total Miles-34.48
Elevation Gained-2261 ft.
Elevation Lost-3350 ft.
Woke up many times last night to very smoky conditions. A couple times the smoke was so thick that it completely blocked out the stars and moon. Woke up for good to an orange sun and very hazy conditions. We got going around 9:30 and the wind picked up immediately. Mount Meek Pass, at about 9726, was our first climb. I’d done this yesterday so it was another easy up. Here we met Stripes, another hiker. She was hiking some of the crest and forming a loop with trails below. She’d also recently hiked the Tahoe Rim Trail and lives not far from me. We visited a bit and hiked on.
From there it was a short walk to Sheep Steps, a steep but stunning downhill into the wonder of Alaska Basin. From this point on to our campsite, I’d be constantly reminded of my epic trip to AK last summer. The colors, topography and terrain all felt very familiar.
The trail descended into a valley that looked like it had been painted by an artist. One of the boys commented that the haze gave it a look out of an 1800s oil painting. We descended into a basin with fall colors on display in between granite slabs and dark green lodgepole. Suddenly I was at the largest of the eight Basin Lakes. The boys were a ways back. A swim was in order for sure. The perfect diving rock beckoned and in no time I was submerged. As I dried off, I was joined by the group. We had some snacks and watched the clouds blow through at unimaginable speeds above. We all made sure our rain gear was handy. We got going not wanting to be trapped up high on the next pass with the possibility of lightning.
Climbing out of the bottom of the basin led us to Sunset Lake where we gathered back up, chatted for a few and continued moving north to stay warm in the wind.
Hurricane Pass was our next goal. It didn’t disappoint. The climb was extremely windy. To keep moving was highly necessary. At the top the wind was blowing, well, like a Hurricane. It didn’t disappoint. As we crested 10,500 feet we looked directly across a valley in full fall colors in all their glory. From right to left we gazed upon South Teton, Middle Teton and Grand Teton. It was spectacular. I stayed for about 15 minutes and let the boys pass me by. I caught them as we dropped into South Fork Cascade Canyon. And as we did, the wind completely died. It went from sounding and feeling like a hurricane to still and silent. It wouldn’t last more than about 10 minutes, but the winds were never as strong again. We passed directly next to and then under Schoolroom Glacier before starting down. With canyon walls on either side of us we wove through stunted lodgepole, small bogs, avalanche flattened stretches always with the roar of the creek on our right. A series of waterfalls fell from the Tetons as well. Although it was a perfect environment and terrain for Grizzly and Moose, we saw neither.
We made our way to a beautiful camp under a dazzling waterfall. Another epic day on the TCT.
Day #4
Daily Miles-3.61
Total Miles-38.09
Elevation Gained-997 ft.
Elevation Lost-594 ft.
Daly Hike - .87
Total Miles-38.96
Elevation Gained-572
Elevation Lost-572
Day Hike-4.46
Total Miles-43.42
Elevation Gained-644 ft.
Elevation Lost-644 ft.
A short day can be long in experience.
This morning was a cold one. I slept in my tent last night because of the wind, but it was the cold that would have made sleeping out most difficult. The water in my BeFree filter was an icy mess. And when Stripes came by for a cup of coffee, she shared that it had been 27 degrees the night before. I made a pretty speedy go of it packing up to hit the trail and find some sun. Once found, it was fabulous. I sat about 25 feet above the trail looking out on a lodgepole sparsely filled meadow. The air was still cold but the sun poured warmth into me. As I gazed out, the bright sun caught thousands of insects floating in every direction. As they did, small birds moved out of the trees for moments at a time, only to pluck a single insect out the air and then find the new closest tree to picnic in. This all taking place in a deep canyon filled with early morning colors.
When the boys arrived we continued down the trail until the junction to Cascade Canyon. It was here in July of 2003, that Paula and I made the turn into Cascade Canyon. We had already hiked over 15 miles on our day hike and now had to hike the last 5 as quickly as we could so that we could catch the last Jenny Lake Ferry and not have to hike another 2.4 miles to the car. Today, we walked past that turn and stayed on the TCT. From here on out, I’ve been on this trail. Eighteen years does a lot to memory. I remember this next 2.7 mile section to be amazing, but today it surpassed even that. The section started in a deep narrow canyon filled from side to side with conifers and Cascade Creek roaring through the middle. Next, the canyon opened up a bit with fever trees and more wide open fall colors in full force. The creek now splits into various smaller and calmer tributaries. We passed up campsites wanting one closer to the end of this camping section. Closer to Solitude Lake and the start of our last pass of the trip for the next morning.
The final section of the canyon was much wider and cut over and over again by rock slides leaving fields of granite tallus. The NPS had graciously removed enough of this rock for a hiker to pleasantly move from one side of each slide to the other. This section had wide open and sweeping views of the canyon. A canyon, now 2 to 3 times as wide as earlier.
We checked a couple more campsites but neither fit our group size needs. We knew there was just one site left. The backcountry here has “camping zones.” Some have individually marked sites. A camper, or group of campers, must have a permit to stay in one of these sites. All unused sites are open, but you can only stay at a designated site. Other “camping zones” have the same rule, but add in that dispersed camping is also allowed if you can find a spot that meets all backcountry camping regulations. There were no obvious dispersed possibilities for a group of 4 and we moved up the canyon to the last spot. What a spot it was. It offered little wind protection but we would luckily have better conditions than yesterday and also a grassy area where tent stakes not only went in the ground but also, thankfully, held well. We set up a stunning camp near the center and near the head of North Cascade Canyon. We had some lunch and I decided to take a walk. I climbed the wall on the opposite side of the canyon. At first I climbed high enough that our tents were dots and the boys were specks. Climbing still higher I could spot the waterfall we camped at last night coming from the middle of Grand Teton itself at 13,770 feet high. And still higher I could see part of, and then all of, Lake Solitude where we would head for the afternoon and evening when I returned. Sitting and enjoying the view I pondered climbing the last 150 or so feet to the ridge. I decided not to, only to hear when I got back that at that very point, I was only about 50 feet from the trail we’d be on in the morning leading to our last climb, Paintbrush Divide at about 10,600 ft.
Upon my return to camp, we prepared for the short walk to Lake Solitude. We packed food, stoves and warm clothes. We hoped to swim, have dinner, and watch the evening colors. We did all of those things. The swim was shocking, cleansing and rejuvenating. The food was fine, as frontcountry food is pulling at stomachs. Our bellies might be ready for town food, but our mindsets are not. Another few days would be wonderful, but we head out tomorrow. We met and visited with a fun group of self described “techies”’all the way from just outside Raleigh, North Carolina. Jeff and I took a short walk around to the other side of the lake and deeper into the canyon’s head wall. We hoped and expected to see some animals in the late afternoon and early evening, but wildlife had all but eluded us today. We returned back to camp in time to see a 3/4 moon rising first over the eastern canyon wall, then over Mount Owen, then Grand Teton and finally over Teepe Tower before disappearing back over the canyon’s western wall.
It was truly a spectacular day.
Day #5
Daily Miles-11.68
Total Miles-55.1
Elevation Gained-2212 ft.
Elevation Lost-4076 ft.
We woke up at 6am to get an early start to the day. A quick pack up in the dark followed by an even quicker snack. About 300 feet back up to Lake Solitude and then the real climb began. Watching the first rays of sun hit Grand Teton as we climbed the 2000 ft pleasantly graded path towards Paintbrush Divide was a spectacular way to spend our last morning on the trail. The lighting changed every few moments as did the intensity of the wind gusts. At about 10250 ft. a false summit fooled us into a sense of accomplishment only to discover that we had about another 350 ft to climb.
Not long after light hail began to pelt me. Because it was small, it didn’t hurt. Because it was frozen, I wasn’t getting wet. Looking up, I found that this “storm” was coming from a single cloud and although it was large, behind it was blue sky. No need to stop and put on rain gear now. We knew a storm was coming in, but also knew that that the forecast was for it to hit later in the afternoon. At least that was the forecast a few days ago.
The last half mile was very reminiscent of ridges in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. As I climbed that last half mile I was reminded of both Franconia Ridge and the ascent from Lake of the Clouds to the top of Mt. Washington. I’d sustained winds of over 100 mph the day I’d climbed Mt Washington 21 years ago.
I continued climbing and passed the wooden sign for Paintbrush Divide. Looking left, I found that I still had about 50 yards till I would be able to drop off the other side.
Today’s winds over Paintbrush Divide wouldn’t hit Mt. Washington mark, but they’d be enough to necessitate walking at an angle of about 60% in order to lean into the wind to prevent being pushed over. And “being pushed over” would have meant falling over 300 ft straight down the rocky slope below.
It was a short crossing, at about half a football field, that got the adrenaline going for sure.
The wind died immediately after dropping off the ridge. It went from a freight train all around me as well as inside my head to close to pure silence. The only sound left was a hint of a whistle of the wind through two lonely stunted pines on the ridge. The trail started dropping immediately. The loose rock sliding under my feet with every step. And then, suddenly, the trail was gone. It looked like a recent rockslide had obliterated the rocky path. Nothing was left except small piles of rocks (carins) set up for a hiker to follow. This precipitous stretch lasted only about 50-75 yards but extreme care needed to be taken with foot fall and every sliding step. One step’s length turned into 2 or 3 as a single foot step would land and slide until I was able to come to a controlled stop. Coming to the end of this section was wonderful. Unfortunately, the end of this section brought me further away from the ridge which allowed the wind to begin picking up once again. It was in no way as strong, but it was back. At about 9885 ft. I found a crystal clear tarn and decided it was time for a break and some hot coffee. By this point the wind had thankfully turned into a breeze. As I got my stove out, I looked up at the ridge I’d come from to see the boys making their own crossing. I knew exactly what they were facing and the emotions it was stirring. I threw them some verbal and emotional positivity as they finished their crossing and dropped out of my view.
Coffee time. Make it a double. And add in some Walkers Vanilla Shortbread cookies for good order. I was going to enjoy this break and my time. A few hikers passed me on their way up to the Divide and we exchanged short greetings.
I’ve come to appreciate having my own experiences in the backcountry. I don’t ask others about conditions ahead and, unless asked, I try not to share about where I’ve been. Everyone has their own lens they look through. For some, the Divide would be harrowing. Others would find it purely exhilarating. Each would have their own adventure up there as well as during every step of their hike. No one needed my recitation of my experience before having their own. My personal experience was built on a foundation of tens of thousands of miles in the backcountry over 45 years. It was built on mistakes I’ve made, my own personal strengths as well as my own fears. It was built on who I am. And everyone out here deserved to have their own experiences as well. This is why I’m all about short greetings, pleasantries, and words of encouragement.
About 40 minutes later, the boys arrived and took a break with me. We shared our own experiences on the ridge and enjoyed our time discussing our shared experiences. It’s one of the things I truly love about hiking with others. No matter how eloquently one journals about an event, no one who hasn’t shared that same experience in the same time and place can truly appreciate the details and nuances that took place.
The remaining 7 or so downhill miles were filled with conversation, a hyper focus while looking for wildlife, feet that were getting more sore with each step, a burning hunger for town food, and a sadness that a trip that felt like it had just started, was coming to an end.
We got to String Lake in no time. All I wanted was a swim. I ducked behind some trees, changed into my swim trunks and dove into the lake. Swimming out into the lake and looking up at Grand Teton was a beautiful way to end an amazing adventure.
The rest is short and sweet. Food, conversation, showers at our AirBnB, more food, more showers, sleep, more food, some touristy driving around looking for wildlife and fall colors, more food and finally a shuttle to the airport and flights home.
An epilogue to this story would share that snow fell in the high country not only the afternoon that we hit the trailhead, but on and off all day the following day as well. Had we been one day later with our trip, we would have been caught in quite the high elevation storm and would have had to radically change our plans to safely make it out of the mountains. We truly hit a perfect weather window and couldn’t be more grateful for this.
The TCT was a success in every measure. This is a special group of friends to me. We may not see each other often, but the time we spend together in the wilderness is truly time well spent.